When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When spinning the rear tires with a line lock, can you simply disengage the line lock while doing a burn out and drive forward and out of the burn out, or should you stop spinning the rears, get out of the throttle, and then disengage the line lock?
When spinning the rear tires with a line lock, can you simply disengage the line lock while doing a burn out and drive forward and out of the burn out, or should you stop spinning the rears, get out of the throttle, and then disengage the line lock?
When spinning the rear tires with a line lock, can you simply disengage the line lock while doing a burn out and drive forward and out of the burn out, or should you stop spinning the rears, get out of the throttle, and then disengage the line lock?
Yes you want to do exactly what you said.. just disengage the line lock and continue spinning the tires forward. Don't stop.. you will probably get water on your tires again, defeating your purpose for the burnout.
When spinning the rear tires with a line lock, can you simply disengage the line lock while doing a burn out and drive forward and out of the burn out, or should you stop spinning the rears, get out of the throttle, and then disengage the line lock?
Let it roll out. There is less chance of any your equipment breaking...
I disengage the line lock, roll forward letting my foot off the gas and then push the clutch and brake in when the car begins to slow.
I assume you could also disengage the line lock and KEEP your foot in the throttle and continue to spin the tires till they grabbed?
(non track messing around)
I would assume so, but if for some reason everything happen to grab and hook up then something could break.
I do see the pros do long burn outs and then continue them pass the tree at the track. some tracks have a no back up rule for us general people so they would not like that.
Can ya'll tell me how much that cost's? Cause I can't find crap on that site? And How long to install please. Lastly, is everything there do will there be a need to run back and forth to the parts store??
It's costs around $250.00. The install of the lock itself takes no more than 30-60 mins. Depending on how you want to mount your switch, that is what will take the most time.
My set up in my 99 is different than the drawing.....Dave at Cartek told me to run mine fron the Master Cylinder line closest to the firewall to the Distribuitor Block, Mine is direct with out going through a valve.
The solenoid valve has to make & brake the MC1 line..
That we all know....
Either it correctly goes inbetween the AH & PV as shown, or in between the PV & MC like mine is...> Now, weather that way (inbetween the PV & MC), is correct or not, remains to be answered..
Have not tried it out yet, but already bled the brakes, etc.
The line that is being replaced is actually MC1, may want to update your instructions... I did not remove the alternator because it is such a PITA with the blower on the car... the washer solvent tank move was a big help.