vibration after tc install HELP!!!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 971
Likes: 0
From: Houston, Tx
Originally Posted by DidntSettle98
I don't think I am going to sell my car because of this, because the vibration is only at the 3500rpm band and I don't drive it there much. But it appears that to fix it is tricky to difficult at best. But the bottom line for me?...I have no clue 
.....whatsoever. I don't know who to take it to, or if there are any places that even have the capability to diagnose and check balance....at least in the Seattle/Tacoma area. I guess if it breaks, it breaks, and I'll deal with it then. I just can't worry about it any more. 
.....whatsoever. I don't know who to take it to, or if there are any places that even have the capability to diagnose and check balance....at least in the Seattle/Tacoma area. I guess if it breaks, it breaks, and I'll deal with it then. I just can't worry about it any more. 
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 10
From: Monticello MN
Originally Posted by DidntSettle98
Interesting. I found this post by ArKay99 over in C5 General. A guys car has been at the dealer for 7 weeks trying to find a vibration. I'd be willing to bet that at least in my case, this could be what is causing my vibration. I am not hopeful that this will ever get fixed.
"Sorry to hear about your troubles. Here is my take on what possibly went wrong. When changing the TC the flexplate was probably removed. It states in the manual that you have to mark the location of the flexplate when removing it. This is because sometimes after the initial engine balance the balance needs to be tweaked on the assembly line. Some engines require it, some don't. If the flexplate was offset balanced to correct for an engine imbalance and removed and not put back on in the exact position it was removed in, you will have vibration. OR, they put in a new flexplate that wasn't balanced, OR that flexplate needs to be offset balanced exactly as the original was. However, if the original wasn't marked there will be now way to know where to drill the offset hole. There is a way to balance it afterwards, but it involves using a strobe light with the inspection cover off. I have never seen this done but there was a member about a year ago that had the dealer replace his clutch and flywheel and they messed up the same way by not marking it. The end result was GM sent 4 engineers to the dealership and they used that strobe light method to pinpoint the heavy spot and balanced the assembly that way. This might be your only solution. Time to start spanking some butt and getting some help from higher places. BTW, there is another way to do it but I've only heard it done on manual xmissions. You have to use washers and trial and error under the flywheel bolts, but I don't know if this method could or should, be used in your case."
"Sorry to hear about your troubles. Here is my take on what possibly went wrong. When changing the TC the flexplate was probably removed. It states in the manual that you have to mark the location of the flexplate when removing it. This is because sometimes after the initial engine balance the balance needs to be tweaked on the assembly line. Some engines require it, some don't. If the flexplate was offset balanced to correct for an engine imbalance and removed and not put back on in the exact position it was removed in, you will have vibration. OR, they put in a new flexplate that wasn't balanced, OR that flexplate needs to be offset balanced exactly as the original was. However, if the original wasn't marked there will be now way to know where to drill the offset hole. There is a way to balance it afterwards, but it involves using a strobe light with the inspection cover off. I have never seen this done but there was a member about a year ago that had the dealer replace his clutch and flywheel and they messed up the same way by not marking it. The end result was GM sent 4 engineers to the dealership and they used that strobe light method to pinpoint the heavy spot and balanced the assembly that way. This might be your only solution. Time to start spanking some butt and getting some help from higher places. BTW, there is another way to do it but I've only heard it done on manual xmissions. You have to use washers and trial and error under the flywheel bolts, but I don't know if this method could or should, be used in your case."
This sure sounds as though it could be the problem, especially since some engines needed to be rebalanced coming off the line and some didn't. As previously noted, many have had torque converters replaced and have experienced no issues. Then is this thread, there are some who have had issues with aftermarket, and with stock, converters after replacement/reinstallation. It would be interesting to know which shops marked the flexplate upon removal and which did not. I'm thinking about a new converter this winter and will make sure this is done on mine.
Ed
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
My question is why would you remove the flexplate to change the TC? I think that the problem would be not marking the flywheel when you pulled the driveshaft out of it.
I have had mine apart many times and have never touched a bolt on the flex plate.
I have had mine apart many times and have never touched a bolt on the flex plate.
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
Does anyone know if the balancing that is done at the factory is done with the TC installed?
If that was the case installing a balanced aftermarket TC would throw the whole process off.
Just a though......
If that was the case installing a balanced aftermarket TC would throw the whole process off.
Just a though......
Pro
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 658
Likes: 4
From: North York Ontario
Originally Posted by klymaxr
Has anyone ever had this problem or is there a specific GM sequence that should be followed when re/reing the torque tube that might have been miss followed by my shop??!!
please help newby
please help newby
all my problems went away when I put the stock convert back in! I let a local torque convert shop set the stall to 2400 and could not be happier.
Before anyone says....... but did you try this? .......... yes we did try everything
Yank was very belligerent and we don't talk anymore, they took me for over a GRAND.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,949
Likes: 10
From: Monticello MN
Originally Posted by auctiondepot
I had this problem with a Yank converter, 3000 stall, as far as I am concerned these are defect converts as they either dont fit or are out of balance or alignment or or or....
all my problems went away when I put the stock convert back in! I let a local torque convert shop set the stall to 2400 and could not be happier.
Before anyone says....... but did you try this? .......... yes we did try everything
Yank was very belligerent and we don't talk anymore, they took me for over a GRAND.
all my problems went away when I put the stock convert back in! I let a local torque convert shop set the stall to 2400 and could not be happier.
Before anyone says....... but did you try this? .......... yes we did try everything
Yank was very belligerent and we don't talk anymore, they took me for over a GRAND.
Ed
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Horse Shoe Valey ONTARIO
I have to agree that there is absolutly no reason to take off your flex plate unless damaged... but where the problem would lye would be at the crank cone coupler/drive shaft...if ..as stated.. some engines were tweeked after assembly.. then if a mechanic did not mark the spline-to-spline in the coupler then i could see this being the issue because the flex plate is attached to the other end of the shaft and if it was balanced to the engine, then if the splines were to have been turned then the balance point would be in the wrong possition HMMMM... but on the other hand this would mean that if we disconnect the tc from the flex plate and run the engine up to that nemisis RPM, we should see the same vibration???? yes/no especially since the TC is neutral balanced. This also follows what i stated before that those who replaced their stock units back in might have just lucked out when putting the shaft/coupler together and got it pretty dame close to the factory spline/spline. I am going to try and spin mine up without the tc tomorrow and see if the vib is still their... this will eliminate the Q of TC verses drive shaft and/or TQ tube. any other suggestions??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,592
Likes: 393
St. Jude Donor 05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Originally Posted by klymaxr
I have to agree that there is absolutly no reason to take off your flex plate unless damaged... but where the problem would lye would be at the crank cone coupler/drive shaft...if ..as stated.. some engines were tweeked after assembly.. then if a mechanic did not mark the spline-to-spline in the coupler then i could see this being the issue because the flex plate is attached to the other end of the shaft and if it was balanced to the engine, then if the splines were to have been turned then the balance point would be in the wrong possition HMMMM... but on the other hand this would mean that if we disconnect the tc from the flex plate and run the engine up to that nemisis RPM, we should see the same vibration???? yes/no especially since the TC is neutral balanced. This also follows what i stated before that those who replaced their stock units back in might have just lucked out when putting the shaft/coupler together and got it pretty dame close to the factory spline/spline. I am going to try and spin mine up without the tc tomorrow and see if the vib is still their... this will eliminate the Q of TC verses drive shaft and/or TQ tube. any other suggestions??
To my way of thinking the drive shaft/or TQ tube would have to be zero balanced as they have no idea what enginge assy. will be married to this assy.
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
Originally Posted by klymaxr
I have to agree that there is absolutly no reason to take off your flex plate unless damaged... but where the problem would lye would be at the crank cone coupler/drive shaft...if ..as stated.. some engines were tweeked after assembly.. then if a mechanic did not mark the spline-to-spline in the coupler then i could see this being the issue because the flex plate is attached to the other end of the shaft and if it was balanced to the engine, then if the splines were to have been turned then the balance point would be in the wrong possition HMMMM... but on the other hand this would mean that if we disconnect the tc from the flex plate and run the engine up to that nemisis RPM, we should see the same vibration???? yes/no especially since the TC is neutral balanced. This also follows what i stated before that those who replaced their stock units back in might have just lucked out when putting the shaft/coupler together and got it pretty dame close to the factory spline/spline. I am going to try and spin mine up without the tc tomorrow and see if the vib is still their... this will eliminate the Q of TC verses drive shaft and/or TQ tube. any other suggestions??
I ended up living with the vibe. I don't hit the 3800-4000 RPM all the time and when I do the car is floored. I really don't notice the vibe because I spend a fraction of a second passing through that zone.
I have started questioning if the vibe was there even before the TC change. Again I don't spend much time in that RPM range so maybe I didn't notice it. After the install I was very tuned into every aspect of the car, maybe that is why I know it is there.
Let me know how spinning the spline works for you.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Horse Shoe Valey ONTARIO
Well I disconnected the torque converter and pushed it back into the trans as far as possible as not to interfere with the flex plate...there isn't much room... so it a good idea to spray a little lithium or wd40 up at the general direction of the torque converter pilot just in case it is still slightly touching the flex plate when running the engine. When i started the engine and ran it up to 3500-4000 there was absolutly NO vibration noticable. Now you will hear a slight squeeling sound as the tqc starts to walk back out and slightly touches the flex plate but nothing to worry about because there is no edge to catch anything on. I went ahead and reattached the tqc in the last of the three possible possitions (tryed the other 2 locations with still a vibe) and fired up the engine and ..yes the vibration returned. sooonow it has to be the torque converter or as was stated earlier because the mass is less this might cause it to vibrate. Boy when you remove the torque converter ..does the engine ever spool up quickly!!!! snappy as hell! now i see why it is such an advantage for those M6 boys to put a light weight flywheel on...that would be the first thing I would be doing with a manual! Sooo it looks as if Ill be pulling the tq out to send it back to TCI for a new one...it also seams as not to lock up completely anyway so it will be two birds with one stone I guess.
max
max
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 183
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From: Shelby Twp MI
Originally Posted by Andy@AandACorvette
I installed a TCI for Corvette Fever magazine a few weeks ago. Same problem. Out of balance.
I just replaced it today with a new one. Problem fixed!
I just replaced it today with a new one. Problem fixed!
I had the same problem with my 3200. Sent it back to Precision Ind and they said it was ten grams out of balance so they replaced it. Send it back to the manufacturer and they'll check it.Good Luck,
KJ
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
Originally Posted by klymaxr
Well I disconnected the torque converter and pushed it back into the trans as far as possible as not to interfere with the flex plate...there isn't much room... so it a good idea to spray a little lithium or wd40 up at the general direction of the torque converter pilot just in case it is still slightly touching the flex plate when running the engine. When i started the engine and ran it up to 3500-4000 there was absolutly NO vibration noticable. Now you will hear a slight squeeling sound as the tqc starts to walk back out and slightly touches the flex plate but nothing to worry about because there is no edge to catch anything on. I went ahead and reattached the tqc in the last of the three possible possitions (tryed the other 2 locations with still a vibe) and fired up the engine and ..yes the vibration returned. sooonow it has to be the torque converter or as was stated earlier because the mass is less this might cause it to vibrate. Boy when you remove the torque converter ..does the engine ever spool up quickly!!!! snappy as hell! now i see why it is such an advantage for those M6 boys to put a light weight flywheel on...that would be the first thing I would be doing with a manual! Sooo it looks as if Ill be pulling the tq out to send it back to TCI for a new one...it also seams as not to lock up completely anyway so it will be two birds with one stone I guess.
max
max
Does anyone know if an engine vibe would be amplified due to the extra mass of the TC spinning?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,592
Likes: 393
St. Jude Donor 05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Originally Posted by Mike04
Does anyone know if an engine vibe would be amplified due to the extra mass of the TC spinning?
Pro
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 732
Likes: 1
From: Sierra Vista, Arizona
Originally Posted by Ron H
It is starting to look like there may be a problem with the Yank 3000.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: simpson town Mo
Originally Posted by Norris
I am running a Yank 3000 and its absolutly perfect. No viberations at all. It has the 2.0 STR. I have been running it for approximately 18 months. I love it...
Show off
Former Vendor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
We have looked it this for quite a time and have found the upon removal, that the drive shaft at the foward rubber attachment is centered by a small plastic sleeve, and with use the rubber and sleeve
will take a set.
the weight of the factory converter allows the drive shaft to act as a balance beam and have a small amount of weight at the front joint
when you take the unit apart the drive shaft falls at the front as their is now no mass at the rear to counterbalance it
upon assy the converter is bolted up and the foward joint is not on center, as the converter can not over come the weight of the shaft and find center, the factory alignment clearance is now enhanced by it taking a set with use .
the drive shaft will orbit at the foward joint and cause a vibration!
To fix this we have designed a heavy duty converter drive plate this unit will not flex like the thin stock unit upon converter bolt up and help bring the inner shaft back to center
http://www.converter.cc/newproducts.htm
also, if you can get any movement at the input shaft on the torque tube other than rotation (up and down movement) you must replace the warn items.
Hope this helps!!
any ?'s call us
Mike
will take a set.
the weight of the factory converter allows the drive shaft to act as a balance beam and have a small amount of weight at the front joint
when you take the unit apart the drive shaft falls at the front as their is now no mass at the rear to counterbalance it
upon assy the converter is bolted up and the foward joint is not on center, as the converter can not over come the weight of the shaft and find center, the factory alignment clearance is now enhanced by it taking a set with use .
the drive shaft will orbit at the foward joint and cause a vibration!
To fix this we have designed a heavy duty converter drive plate this unit will not flex like the thin stock unit upon converter bolt up and help bring the inner shaft back to center
http://www.converter.cc/newproducts.htmalso, if you can get any movement at the input shaft on the torque tube other than rotation (up and down movement) you must replace the warn items.
Hope this helps!!
any ?'s call us
Mike
Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
Originally Posted by yankman
We have looked it this for quite a time and have found the upon removal, that the drive shaft at the foward rubber attachment is centered by a small plastic sleeve, and with use the rubber and sleeve
will take a set.
the weight of the factory converter allows the drive shaft to act as a balance beam and have a small amount of weight at the front joint
when you take the unit apart the drive shaft falls at the front as their is now no mass at the rear to counterbalance it
upon assy the converter is bolted up and the foward joint is not on center, as the converter can not over come the weight of the shaft and find center, the factory alignment clearance is now enhanced by it taking a set with use .
the drive shaft will orbit at the foward joint and cause a vibration!
To fix this we have designed a heavy duty converter drive plate this unit will not flex like the thin stock unit upon converter bolt up and help bring the inner shaft back to center http://www.converter.cc/newproducts.htm
also, if you can get any movement at the input shaft on the torque tube other than rotation (up and down movement) you must replace the warn items.
Hope this helps!!
any ?'s call us
Mike
will take a set.
the weight of the factory converter allows the drive shaft to act as a balance beam and have a small amount of weight at the front joint
when you take the unit apart the drive shaft falls at the front as their is now no mass at the rear to counterbalance it
upon assy the converter is bolted up and the foward joint is not on center, as the converter can not over come the weight of the shaft and find center, the factory alignment clearance is now enhanced by it taking a set with use .
the drive shaft will orbit at the foward joint and cause a vibration!
To fix this we have designed a heavy duty converter drive plate this unit will not flex like the thin stock unit upon converter bolt up and help bring the inner shaft back to center
http://www.converter.cc/newproducts.htmalso, if you can get any movement at the input shaft on the torque tube other than rotation (up and down movement) you must replace the warn items.
Hope this helps!!
any ?'s call us
Mike
Has anyone used one of these drive plates who had a previous vibe?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 235
Likes: 0
From: Horse Shoe Valey ONTARIO
Originally Posted by Chrispy
I have the same issue with my TCI SF3000. Also lost the lockup clutch.
Getting a billet cover, 3800 stall, triple disk lockup converter to replace it.
Getting a billet cover, 3800 stall, triple disk lockup converter to replace it.
max
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 46,766
Likes: 5
From: Boynton Beach Florida
St. Jude Donor '07-'12, '20
Originally Posted by Mike04
Thanks for the info.
Has anyone used one of these drive plates who had a previous vibe?
Has anyone used one of these drive plates who had a previous vibe?
I am using the Yank Drive Plate and have no problems at all. 
Bob