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I'll have mine out of the car on Monday morning. I can take pics if you want.
That would be great! A photo of where the rear of the door bar attached with the seat all the way back, and the front attachment would be great. Maybe even a photo with the bar in before you remove them would be good too!
Has anyone here did their own install of their Wolfe bars? Weld in or bolt in? Like Tony said, I would rather do my own work.
I'm looking at the weld in kit, it will be a good reason to go ahead and hook up my new TIG welder which has been sitting in the garage floor for months. Does anyone know if the main hoop can be installed with the rear bars attached? I see where NHRA requires the rear bars welded to the main hoop. It would be nice to weld it all up then remove the bar to paint it then reinstall it all in one piece.
I did my own install. There is no way to attach the rear bars then install the entire assembly into the car. It is very tight just sliding the main hoop into the car. A coupe might be a little easier. Then the rear bars must be slid on. It is difficult to slide them on as well. The bar fits very tight to the car interior. You would have to weld up the rear bars in the car, then touch-up the paint on the welds. It would be hard to get to the rear bars in a Z06, have fun welding those.
I did my own install. There is no way to attach the rear bars then install the entire assembly into the car. It is very tight just sliding the main hoop into the car. A coupe might be a little easier. Then the rear bars must be slid on. It is difficult to slide them on as well. The bar fits very tight to the car interior. You would have to weld up the rear bars in the car, then touch-up the paint on the welds. It would be hard to get to the rear bars in a Z06, have fun welding those.
Thanks for the reply, that was exactly what I was wanting to know. Are you using straight or bent rear bars? Did you buy their bolt in or weld in kit and weld it all together yourself? Do you think the rear bars may be changed a little more like the red ones on this ECS site and allow them to be installed in one piece? I think their bars are all welded then put in the car but I couldn't get too much out of them. But it looks like their main hoop sits a lot more forward than the Wolfe bars. Is there enough room to remove/replace the factory plastic trim panels with the Wolfe bars installed? I'm asking all these questions now because I'm trying to figure which direction I need to go. Right now it will be very easy to get to my rear bars to weld them if I have to go that route!
I ahve the straight bars and the bolt in kit. I am not sure about changing the rear bars, it would probably take some trial and error. ECS probably has this figured out. Some of the plastic panels can be removed. However the panels covering the seat belt reels must be installed prior to installing the bar. There is not enough room to squeeze them in there. I actually left these off at first then had to unbolt my bar slide it forward and install those panels. You could probably cut those panels up some and make them fit. If you want a fully welded bar, since you have the car apart. I would install it now and weld it up. That is the only way I could see getting a full weld on the rear bars, unless you took out the rear glass. Deal with the plastic panels later. Also if you plan on tubbing the car, do it before installing the bar. I have a 2.5" tub and had to modify the mounting plates to get it to fit in. What are your plans with your car? If you are building a full drag car, I would take the car to a local fab shop and have them weld in a good bar.
From: Stealth So Cal GOCC ...comming to invade your neighborhood soon
Originally Posted by blu00rdstr
I talked to MSI in Roseville, CA about putting a rollbar in my convertible. They told me that the bolt-in rollbars which allow the top to operate and clear the head, have a bend in them which is a built-in failure point. The bars without a bend (Wolfe) are too close to the head and add a head-injury hazard. Also, since you can punch through the floor with a 5lb sledge, MSI is skeptical that these bolt-in rollbars will withstand a 3300lb impact.
MSI recommended that I buy a coupe and swap the driveline for safety.
I tried dealing with MSI but after waiting in line for 4 months on a custom installation they backed out at the last minute.
Anyway, I eventually found a racing shop that did a great job on a custom installation (my design). They took impeccable care of my car and went the extra mile to make sure that the bar would stand up strong in the event of a crash. The fuel tanks were dropped and all mounting points were reinforced/gusseted. The top still works (the bar moves to operate the top but fits in when closed or open), the seat has full travel (I use the easy seat entry), the bar is well behind my head so no danger, it doesn't touch the seat and therefore won't wear the leather unlike the Wolfe, the top of the bar is at least 2 inches or more above my head when seated-passes broomstick test (it's 1/8" from vert frame), all hoop and rear support bars are straight for strength-not bent, The bar doesn't block my rear view (looking in the mirror you wouldn't even know it's there unless it's a contrasting color), and this bar has 6 points of attachment without the Petty Bar installed which is also removeable. BTW, the bar fits into welded base plate shoes so there aren't any pivot points that could fail.
My seat goes back fully with my Wolfe bar. You must have the seat back reclined pretty far. I could see that as a problem. I use the easy entry and it is not a problem here.
Originally Posted by 50 4Ever
Yes, my Wolfe rollbar will not let the seat travel all the way back, I think it limits travel by an inch or two.
My seat goes back fully with my Wolfe bar. You must have the seat back reclined pretty far. I could see that as a problem. I use the easy entry and it is not a problem here.
It may be a issue with the vert bars that limit the seat travel. It looks like the top of the vert bars is more forward than the coupe or FRC bars. Probably made that way to clear the top when raised and lowered.