Anyone ever hear or try this? It is being sold by Eckler's for $49.99. Is this any good, or just

This is there ad:

The Air Temperature Relocating Kit repositions your engine's air intake temperature sensor from the hot plenum area to the air filter base where it can sense cooler air. This enables the ECM to adjust the fuel to more accurate air temperatures resulting in increased engine performance. This kit can be used with or without the Forced Air induction system. The kit includes: IAT sensor, CAD/CAM designed & CNC machined aluminum mount bracket with stainless steel hardware, 78" extension harness, cable ties & installation instructions. Fits all 1992-2000's except ZR1 models

 

i would think it would dump more fuel in your motor that could be burned therefore making it run rich
just what i think
i could be wrong though

 

No.

 

They screwed up, the C4 model years you can do this but for C5s no.
For one thing if the C5 is a 2001 and newer the sensor is built into the MAF and is already by the aircleaner

If a 97-2000 the sensor is in airbridge and not the intake manifold so sensor is not getting heated up as it did with C4s.

Having the sensor falsely report colder airflow would fool PCM to think air is colder and force AFR leaner.

 

They basically trick the computer to think the air temp is cooler which results in advancing your timing. The one I had would register a max temp of 80 degrees, and it lead to some knocking on hot days.

 

 

Relocating the IAT sensor closer to the thottle body will not make more power, but it will give better throttle responce since the temp is measured closer to the intake which will give a better reading of the air that is about to enter the heads.

Keith

 

I just had to share this trick - it is so neat.

If you have a '97-'00 car and a Blackwing, you can pop the
IAT sensor out of the bridge, and just POP it in the hole where
that silly "dirt indicator pop-up" goes in the Blackwing.
It fits perfectly, no wiring changes or anything.
Find a rubber plug to fill the hole on the air bridge, and you're done.

Now, why do this? Probably doesn't help much. But I hooked my scanner up and noticed the IAC didn't heat soak near as much when
restarting after a short stop, or at a long red-light. And it seemed to re-stabilize at a normal temp sooner after I drove a bit.
It would hit 140 if I stopped at a store or gas station, and not get back down below 100 for several miles - now it seems to react quicker.

DG

 

Think about what you just typed.. "but it will give better throttle responce since the temp is measured closer to the intake which will give a better reading of the air that is about to enter the heads."

Which location is "closer to the heads", stock, or at the far end of the intake tract?

 

I did this with my VaraRam on my 98.

 

Did it create any problems?

 

Not that I know of. Had it dynoed not too long ago, there were no KR spikes, etc..

 

I don't think it's a power adder. However, saying that, mounted in the power bridge (aka 1997-2000), after you shut your car down, or during stop-and-go traffic, the IAT sensor will heat soak, as it sits right above the hot engine. It will take a while to cool down following these evolutions, as there's more mass to cool (sensor plus bridge). The engine can roll back timing during these periods of time. Now, if you mount it actually measuring the inlet air entering the MAF, these effects should be able to be minimized. GM moved it in the 2001-2004 models (LS1 and LS6) and installed it as part of the MAF. Lingenfelter also moves it and installs it in the Blackwing flow meter hole, plugging the bridge hole. GM must have had a reason, and Lingenfelter doesn't make many mistakes. I have drilled holes in my foglight shrouds and will be moving my IAT sensor shortly. I have had timing rollbacks due to temperature, following a hot restart, and it lasts longer than a person may think. As the Blackwing mounts far forward of the engine block, and doesn't see near the heat that above the engine does, especially with drilled foglight shrouds, I hope to minimize any heatsoak effects. This should get the car running at full power sooner by measuring actual inlet air temps, which, in my case anyway, will be mixed with outside air through the foglight shroud, and therefore, cooler. It can be embarassing demonstrating a car following a hot restart. This reasoning is JMHO.
Ed

 

I just recently instaled a Halltech Stinger in my 98, in order to to keep the IAT in its stock location , you must drill a hole in the airbridge, didn't feel like doing that, so instead extended the wires on the IAT, drilled a hole in the filter and installed the IAT there. Theoretically should get a true reading on the incoming air, probably a degree or two cooler than the reading on the stock system.I too have drilled holes in the foglight surrounds, six of them 2" in diameter. Would have added another resistor in paralell with the IAT which would have gained me some timing by fooling the PCm into thinking its was cooler than ambient, but the Hypertech program already adds a small amount of timing, so I felt it was unnecessary and redundant and might have caused problems. My C5 has never ever pinged in the three years I have had it.

 

I totally agree with everything, except I wouldn't even consider adding a resistor. I believe you possibly could damage an engine that way if the air temp was way, way off. The timing is rolled back for a reason with really hot inlet air. The part I really like about relocating the sensor, is the quicker recovery from a hot start. I really was embarrassed following a hot start once, and do not wish for that to happen again.
Ed

 

I say do it. I done it on my 97. It seemed to gain a few mpg. and also stopped the nasty ping I had. You can always put it back in the stock location.