HELP- Check Engine Warning Light + Codes
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
HELP- Check Engine Warning Light + Codes
Need some help please...the check engine warning light has come on. It's not blinking, but steady. I've put in fuel injector cleaner, new gas, ect...seems to go off for a while, but them comes back on. I've noticed that when I get gas, there is no presure when I open the gas cap...I'm sure this might have something to do with it. The codes listed on the DIC are as follows: 10-PCM po410 H C , p1415 H, p1416 H, 40-BCM 85583 H, 99 - HVAC 80361 H C . I think I read where the H means history, but I'm not sure so I listed everything. Thank you for any advice you can give ! Jeff
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
From: Grafton Ohio
Originally Posted by jowens53
Need some help please...the check engine warning light has come on. It's not blinking, but steady. I've put in fuel injector cleaner, new gas, ect...seems to go off for a while, but them comes back on. I've noticed that when I get gas, there is no presure when I open the gas cap...I'm sure this might have something to do with it. The codes listed on the DIC are as follows: 10-PCM po410 H C , p1415 H, p1416 H, 40-BCM 85583 H, 99 - HVAC 80361 H C . I think I read where the H means history, but I'm not sure so I listed everything. Thank you for any advice you can give ! Jeff
Write down the codes, reset them all, do some driving, then check to see if any come back. Jer.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2005
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Check out the web addr the guy from Ohio posted. There's a mile long list of codes. There are directions on how to reset and clear codes . Have fun, I'm running back and forth from the car to the computer trying to get situated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
From: Grafton Ohio
Originally Posted by jowens53
When I held reset on the HVAC codes...I could hear things moving behind the dash ! Then it still showed the same 2 codes remaining. I did it again...same noises?
The noise you hear could just be the blend door shifting due to the resets.
Post the 2 hvac codes you keep getting
Jer.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2005
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HVAC B0361 - left acuator feedback short to ground, another person said I should be noticing warmer air when running the ac as one of these vent flaps might not be closing all the way. That's the only HVAC code with a "c" that I have. The other code is PCM P0410. Secondary air injection system. Something to do with a pump that is used during ignition to regulate emmisions. I've been to several websites and I'm picking up a little bit of info on each one. It's looking like I might need to replace an acuator for the HVAC problem. I'm not real sure yet just what the seriousness of the other problem is. Any ideas? Thanxs-Jeff
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
From: Grafton Ohio
I'm not familiar with hvac problems but I would get to the actuator in question and check the wiring. The code states short to ground so you need to find out if the short is in the motor itself or in the wiring harness. Look to see if any wiring is cracked or chaffed.
The air pump code is no big deal until you have to smog check. Start out by starting your engine cold and hear if the air pump comes on at all. It's located underneath the left (driver) headlamp. You'll know if its working because the thing sounds really whiney. If it's working make sure all of your air pump lines are solidly connected and the system has no clogged ckeck valves. Jer.
The air pump code is no big deal until you have to smog check. Start out by starting your engine cold and hear if the air pump comes on at all. It's located underneath the left (driver) headlamp. You'll know if its working because the thing sounds really whiney. If it's working make sure all of your air pump lines are solidly connected and the system has no clogged ckeck valves. Jer.
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The AIR system check valves are most likely the cause of your problems! They are stuck shut and the O2 sensors dont see the injected air when the system is operational. Try this. Disconnect the rubber hose between each check valve. Spray some carb cleaner in the lines and force it through with some compressed air. Then spray in some WD-40 and forct that through. Reconnect the hoses, clear the old codes and that should take care of that issue. The drivers side check valve is a snap to replace and only cost about $20.
The passengers side one is BEHIND the intake manifold and is a BITCH to change.
Here is the metal line leading to the valve.
Try the chemical method first! It has saved few people some time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
The passengers side one is BEHIND the intake manifold and is a BITCH to change.
Here is the metal line leading to the valve.
Try the chemical method first! It has saved few people some time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Pro
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 511
Likes: 66
From: Timnath, CO
Turns out my problem was a leaking battery. The acid ate through a vacuum line. I'm really PO'd as the original glass mat battery was replaced with a conventional battery when the car was two year's old. That was 18 months ago.
The damage was not covered under the GM Major Guard extenede warranty because it doesn't cover batteries or vacuum lines. To make matters worse, my defective 6 year battery was not covered because if a battery is replaced under the original warranty, it is only covered until the original 36 month warranty ends. This is
.
The damage was not covered under the GM Major Guard extenede warranty because it doesn't cover batteries or vacuum lines. To make matters worse, my defective 6 year battery was not covered because if a battery is replaced under the original warranty, it is only covered until the original 36 month warranty ends. This is
.