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Bleeding Brakes

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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 10:09 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 2KREDVert
Do it yourself! Also flush the cooling system and get rid of that Dexcool.
What's wrong with dexcool? Are you saying to substitute it with something else that's better?
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 05:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by The Nuts
What's wrong with dexcool? Are you saying to substitute it with something else that's better?

Nothing wrong with it. I have 108K+ miles and am on my 2nd load of Dex-Cool. I use distilled water for my flushes and fills but, other than that, the flush/fill procedure is pretty much normal, including using Dex-Cool. My system is fine. HTH
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 05:57 PM
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Well I went in today for the front pads and bleeding.

I told them the recommended sequence and he decided to do it his way.......RR,LR,RF,LF.....like he has always done it. Replaced with DOT 4 fluid.

Well....I have a very SOFT pedal !!!!!! I have to push it 2/3 to the floor to get any braking.

I am returning in the morning. Could the different sequence cause this or did they leave air in the lines or what???


DH
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 06:41 PM
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Here's the bleeding procedure for the '04 right out of the manual. Print it out and take it with you. To be honest, I wouldn't let him touch my brakes again if he let you leave with a soft pedal. Any shadetree mechanic can tell if he has bled the system properly before it's even off the jack stands.

Brake Bleeding Procedure
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 08:15 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Patches
Here's the bleeding procedure for the '04 right out of the manual. Print it out and take it with you. To be honest, I wouldn't let him touch my brakes again if he let you leave with a soft pedal. Any shadetree mechanic can tell if he has bled the system properly before it's even off the jack stands.

Brake Bleeding Procedure

Thanks Patches...for the document. I am printing and bringing it with me.

And I'm not very happy that I have to go back there again

Edit: I just read the proceedure manual. I had them put in DOT 4. Is this ok or am I going to get some seal leakage problems?

Also, there is a warning about air getting in updstream of the ABS system. In the document there is a link which is inactive in your post. Do you think this needs to be done??

Thanks very much for your help....wish I just took it to the dealer


DH

Last edited by Dirty Howie; Aug 9, 2005 at 08:26 PM.
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Old Aug 9, 2005 | 11:59 PM
  #26  
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DOT 4 is fine. DOT 5 isn't since it's silicone-based.

No time to upload that ABS bleeding procedure to my website so here it is. You'll need the dealer to do it unless your mechanic has a Tech II tool handy since it's required for this procedure.

ABS Automated Bleed Procedure
Bleeding the ABS System
Perform a manual or pressure bleeding procedure. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes. If the desired brake pedal height results are not achieved, perform the automated bleed procedure below.

The procedure cycles the system valves and runs the pump in order to purge the air from the secondary circuits normally closed off during normal base brake operation and bleeding. The automated bleed procedure is recommended when air ingestion is suspected in the secondary circuits, or when the BPMV has been replaced.

Automated Bleed Procedure

Notice
The Auto Bleed Procedure may be terminated at any time during the process by pressing the EXIT button. No further Scan Tool prompts pertaining to the Auto Bleed procedure will be given. After exiting the bleed procedure, relieve bleed pressure and disconnect bleed equipment per manufacturers instructions. Failure to properly relieve pressure may result in spilled brake fluid causing damage to components and painted surfaces.


Raise the vehicle on a suitable support. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage. Refer to Brake Fluid Loss or Symptoms - Hydraulic Brakes in Hydraulic Brakes. Repair or replace as needed.
Inspect the battery state of charge. Refer to Battery Inspection/Test in Engine Electrical.
Install a scan tool.
Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
With the scan tool, establish communications with the EBCM. Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
Bleed the base brake system. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes.
Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.
If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure:
If a DTC is detected, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List and diagnose the appropriate DTC.
If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again. Refer to Hydraulic Brake System Bleeding in Hydraulic Brakes.
When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal in order to inspect for firmness.
Remove the scan tool.
Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Inspect the brake fluid level. Refer to Master Cylinder Reservoir Filling in Hydraulic Brakes.
Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 12:37 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Patches
DOT 4 is fine. DOT 5 isn't since it's silicone-based.

No time to upload that ABS bleeding procedure to my website so here it is. You'll need the dealer to do it unless your mechanic has a Tech II tool handy since it's required for this procedure.

Well the dealer will definately be doing this if needed. I'm not clear on how you tell if this is needed. My brake pedal was high and firm before the bleeding. Is it possible that they got air in the secondary system? I assume if they get my pedal firm again that I will not need this proceedure done. Right now if I apply brakes slow and steady the pedal goes almost to the floor. But if I pump it quickly once or twice the pedal is high and firm until I release the brakes again.

Thanks again!!


DH
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 01:10 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by The Nuts
What's wrong with dexcool? Are you saying to substitute it with something else that's better?
Top machinists and mechanics are seeing major corrosion in older Dexcool systems. Also, many lawsuits are out there against GM for it. That's why Prestone has come out with a new coolant that mixes with any color. Dexcool seems to be ok if your system never gets air in it but if your system's integrity ever fails and air gets in, it will corrode like crazy. My machinist told me to get rid of it fast because he is starting to see allot of corrosion, especially in heads on older Dexcool GM cars. Do an internet search for Dexcool lawsuits and read much more. Allot of litigation in progress. Ford and Chrysler will void your warranty if they catch Dexcool in any of their vehicles.
Replaced mine with Prestone green stuff 6 months ago.

Last edited by 2KREDVert; Aug 10, 2005 at 01:14 AM.
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 04:20 PM
  #29  
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Showed the guy the correct bleeding proceedure and order from the shop manual provided by PATCHES

They bled the system again. Now I have proper brake pedal again!!

They even want me to come back in a week to bleed again to make absolutely sure no air remains


DH
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Old Aug 10, 2005 | 11:31 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Dirty Howie
Actually if you two jokers were to check with Andy and Charlie you would find out that I have been present for every single mod thats been done to my car.

I doubt they could have done it without me....
Yes indeed. In fact, they just mentioned that fact to me today when I was there.
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