Front Adjusting bolt Seized???
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: Harrah OK
Front Adjusting bolt Seized???
I am lowering my 04 Comm Ed today while installing Eradispeeds and Z06 wheels and F1's. I am following the info on the Frank Hunt site. the back went as expected. On the front the bolts do not have the c-clip at the top which should not be an issue. However, when I try to turn them CCW the threaded part in the spring wants to turn with it like it is seized on the stud. However, this should not be the case due to mileage and not driving in rain and such. There is not exposed head on the bottom of the a arm so I supposed the bolt is captured in the casting and will rotate in it. Any thoughts?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 0
From: Rowlett TX
Hey 540Z28,
I will try to help you out here
I found Frank Hunt's website and read his "How To" on lowering the C5 Corvette. He does a pretty good job of explaining how it should be done.
1) Did you make sure to apply pressure to the bottom of the front leaf spring, using a jack, to relieve the tension on the adjustment bolt?
2) If the bolt is still seized after relieving the pressure then try spraying some penetrating oil on the bolt threads and let it soak for a while. Hopefully that will help break it loose.
3) If all else fails and the female threaded portion still spins in the leaf spring then... the car is still under warranty... I would let the dealership fix it
Good luck
I will try to help you out here
I found Frank Hunt's website and read his "How To" on lowering the C5 Corvette. He does a pretty good job of explaining how it should be done.
1) Did you make sure to apply pressure to the bottom of the front leaf spring, using a jack, to relieve the tension on the adjustment bolt?
2) If the bolt is still seized after relieving the pressure then try spraying some penetrating oil on the bolt threads and let it soak for a while. Hopefully that will help break it loose.
3) If all else fails and the female threaded portion still spins in the leaf spring then... the car is still under warranty... I would let the dealership fix it
Good luck
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Vette-Pilot
Hey 540Z28,
I will try to help you out here
I found Frank Hunt's website and read his "How To" on lowering the C5 Corvette. He does a pretty good job of explaining how it should be done.
1) Did you make sure to apply pressure to the bottom of the front leaf spring, using a jack, to relieve the tension on the adjustment bolt?
2) If the bolt is still seized after relieving the pressure then try spraying some penetrating oil on the bolt threads and let it soak for a while. Hopefully that will help break it loose.
3) If all else fails and the female threaded portion still spins in the leaf spring then... the car is still under warranty... I would let the dealership fix it
Good luck
I will try to help you out here
I found Frank Hunt's website and read his "How To" on lowering the C5 Corvette. He does a pretty good job of explaining how it should be done.
1) Did you make sure to apply pressure to the bottom of the front leaf spring, using a jack, to relieve the tension on the adjustment bolt?
2) If the bolt is still seized after relieving the pressure then try spraying some penetrating oil on the bolt threads and let it soak for a while. Hopefully that will help break it loose.
3) If all else fails and the female threaded portion still spins in the leaf spring then... the car is still under warranty... I would let the dealership fix it
Good luck
what's frank hunts website address?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: Harrah OK
Easiest things first. Go to "Ask.com" and ask "How do I lower my C5 Corvette" One of the supplied links should be his. Now back to my problem. Upon further inspection after W-D 40 in the threads they are loose. However, the stud is not turning freely in the a arm. It acts like it is mounted in rubber or twisting on a spring. I did jack the spring, even to the point of raising the a-arm. So I put a small wood block and between it and the arm and pried it up. Still no luck. There is no c-clip on the top of thse stuck so I am wondering if I have a different setup with some kind of a rubber lock or something so it will not back off.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 3,394
Likes: 12
From: Leon Iowa
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09
Originally Posted by C5Generl
what's frank hunts website address?
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 0
From: Rowlett TX
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Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,699
Likes: 0
From: Rowlett TX
540Z28,
You should be jacking up on the spring itself and should be able to create a gap between the adjustment bolt and the lower control arm after you jack up the spring. I was able to turn the bolt by hand after creating that gap.
If you are still having problems, I would disconnect the lower control arm and make sure the bolt will turn freely after separating the adjustment bolt from the lower control arm. Good luck and keep us posted
You should be jacking up on the spring itself and should be able to create a gap between the adjustment bolt and the lower control arm after you jack up the spring. I was able to turn the bolt by hand after creating that gap.
If you are still having problems, I would disconnect the lower control arm and make sure the bolt will turn freely after separating the adjustment bolt from the lower control arm. Good luck and keep us posted
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 4,981
Likes: 497
From: Hilton NY
The adjusting bolt is seized to the steel bushing which is now loose in the spring; the following procedure worked to repair mine. Room is needed so the adjusting bolt/ steel bushing can be removed. One way to get room is to separate the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle so the lower a-arm can be dropped; don't use a pickle fork to do this or the ball joint rubber seal will be ruined. Use a ball joint removal tool. Use a hammer on the adjusting bolt head to knock it down out of the spring along with the steel bushing. Place the removed steel bushing in a vice and use a torch to heat it so the bolt can be unscrewed. Clean the bolt and steel bushing including the threads then degrease. Degrease the hole in the spring with alcohol then glue the steel bushing back in the spring using a good epoxy; avoid getting any glue on the threads. Reassemble. Notice that the hole in the spring is a step design so that the steel bushing will continue to apply forces to it as it did before, the epoxy is needed only to keep the bushing from turning when adjustments are made.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: Harrah OK
Thanks to all who replied. This is the followup. Applied W-D 4 liberally and let set overnite. After everyone's advice and experience I looked closer and realized that there was very little movement if any in the sleeve. What I was experiencing was that the bolt was being held by the rubber grommet in the a arm. I lubed liberally and started working it. They slowly started moving and not rebounding. Cranked them til tight and backed of 3/4 round. Let it down and drove about 3 miles. Checked the progress and only dropped 1/4 inch. Gonna get a few more miles and see if it settles more. Boy these Z16 wheels, F1s and the eradispeeds really set my car off IMHO. Thanks to Steve McBrien on the forum for a SWEET DEAL!
