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On the BPP short shifter can you put the handle on either side of the shifter base or does it have to be on the driver's side? I would like to put mine (if I get one) on the passenger's side because I always feel that the stock position is too close to me. Can that be done?
On the BPP short shifter can you put the handle on either side of the shifter base or does it have to be on the driver's side? I would like to put mine (if I get one) on the passenger's side because I always feel that the stock position is too close to me. Can that be done?
Thanks
Yessir - that's where mine has been for years for that very reason
Yessir - that's where mine has been for years for that very reason
And play with the little wedge to get the angle just right before you put the **** on with the blue lock tite. I moved mine to about 4 positions before I figured out where it felt best. I also started out with a shorter, straight arm. Drove it for a year that way, and decided to switch to the bent arm. A little taller, which makes it easier to shift. If you don't find a position you like, you can try the straight arm, for just the cost of shipping from Chicago.
Yes, the broader your shoulders, the better off you'll be with the shifter arm on the right side. I like the left side, but that position fits my physique best - hence the joy of owning a BPP - total adjustability (unlike all the others!)
I just went on line to look at this shifter and it says the plastic wedge also acts as a vibration dampner. Does it work or is there still that dreaded vibration noise?
Most C5 owners still hear the "buzz" from almost every short-throw shifter. GM engineers went through great pains to isolate most of the tranny vibration when they designed the OEM shifter. Unfortunately, all that isolation also results in a very rubbery shifting experience. I'll take the snick-snick any day!
I don't recall, but if the BPP has a round shaft, as does my B&M, I can make a suggestion for eliminating vibration and noise.
For dampening I took several steel shaft collars (available from electric motor shops, among others) that have set screws (they look like drill-bit stops--the collars, not the screws ) and put them under the boot so that the top one also holds the boot against the shift ball. I used Loctite on the set screws and after 4 years they've never come loose, nor the collars move around. Four or five should do the trick.
They dampen vibration and noise without interfering with feel.
Hi,
For those of you with the BPP and have also experienced the Hurst,
B&M shifters, how do they compare. I had a B&M in my 2000 FRC, but looking to change the stock shifter in my 2003 ZO6.
Hi,
For those of you with the BPP and have also experienced the Hurst,
B&M shifters, how do they compare. I had a B&M in my 2000 FRC, but looking to change the stock shifter in my 2003 ZO6.
Thanks.........Robert
I always liked my old B&M. I went to the BPP when I changed cars, and I like the adjustment factor. They are both good - never had a Hurst.
I still get a little bit of buzzing at 4000+ rpm, but it's not really unpleasant, especially since I don't often shift gears at high revs. One of these days, I'm going to make a split mold that will allow me to cast a tube of soft urethane around the shifter arm. That should take care of the remaining buzz.
ROMISZ,
I drove a Hurst-equipped C5 and thought it felt very similar to the BPP. It is less expensive, but there is zero adjustability.