((( Absolute Basic, but Vitals in C5 )))
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
((( Absolute Basic, but Vitals in C5 )))
Hi guys, I'm thinking of changing some of the fluids. Its a 99 with 21,000 miles. I've already done the A4 tranny (oil + filter), and differential oil changed. I want to do the Coolant. Questions - Since DexCool (orange looking) coolant is recommended for C5, does it matter where I buy it? I've seen some made by Chevron & Prestone (DexCool, Orange looking, Approved by GM) in Pepboys and Autozone, etc. Can I use this or do I need to waste extra money to get it from Chevy dealer ? How much do I need to buy and what's the simple process of flushing the old one for the new one....
Its a 99, with 21K miles. What other fluids, etc would you recommend changing?
Another question, I wanted some windsheild washer also. Does it matter which one? I don't want it to mess up my waxed surface and glass..
Its a 99, with 21K miles. What other fluids, etc would you recommend changing?
Another question, I wanted some windsheild washer also. Does it matter which one? I don't want it to mess up my waxed surface and glass..
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
Nobody know the answer to this.. I'm a lil shocked... Come on guys what are you using in your radiators. Where did you buy the Dexcool.. and what other fluids I need to change ? 
Racer
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 360
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota, Fl.
Another question, I wanted some windsheild washer also. Does it matter which one? I don't want it to mess up my waxed surface and glass..
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
[QUOTE=Vette_Fan]How much do I need to buy and what's the simple process of flushing the old one for the new one....
Its a 99, with 21K miles. What other fluids, etc would you recommend changing?
Its a 99, with 21K miles. What other fluids, etc would you recommend changing?
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Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
[QUOTE=Vette_Fan] How much do I need to buy and what's the simple process of flushing the old one for the new one....
Its a 99, with 21K miles. What other fluids, etc would you recommend changing? [QUOTE]
Thanks for replies... anyone knows of the simple process of flushing and replacing the old fluid with new one... ? Do I NEED the distilled water, or just tap water.. ?
Its a 99, with 21K miles. What other fluids, etc would you recommend changing?
[QUOTE]Thanks for replies... anyone knows of the simple process of flushing and replacing the old fluid with new one... ? Do I NEED the distilled water, or just tap water.. ?
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
Originally Posted by schpenxel
Everybody claims you need distilled for whatever reason, I usually just use tap water though. I'd put distilled in it if I were you.
I would normally open the dain plug at the bottom, keep the car running and stick a hose with water running into the radiator. When the water runs clear, then I know the old stuff is all gone. I would then shut the running water, let some of it drain, and add 1 gallon of coolant. THAT would be my NORMAL flushing of radiator. But with distilled water, how do I do it.. ? Any suggestions ?
Thanks..
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
Originally Posted by schpenxel
I really have to ask why you're changing all the fluids. Water and antifreeze don't exactly go bad after 21K miles...
WTH... 
Race Director
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 16,667
Likes: 1,209
From: Raleigh, NC
St. Jude Donor '15
Changing the fluid isn't going to help that, cleaning the radiator and AC condensor will. Pull the plastic cover off on top of the radiator/condensor and get the car high enough to look under it and I think you'll find a ton of trash filling the airway of the radiator. I was seeing 220+ all the time, pulled radiator and condensor, cleaned them with a 3000psi pressure washer and now I can sit in 100+ degree stop and go traffic with the AC on high and never get over 196.
To get temps as low as mine however, the fans will have to be reprogrammed, but they shouldn't be as high as yours are when cruising for sure
To get temps as low as mine however, the fans will have to be reprogrammed, but they shouldn't be as high as yours are when cruising for sure
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 13,550
Likes: 6
From: Now in God's Country, the Big Sky, Montana!
Cruise-In 7-8-9-10 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Originally Posted by Vette_Fan
Where do I find it, and how do I flush the radiator?
I would normally open the dain plug at the bottom, keep the car running and stick a hose with water running into the radiator. When the water runs clear, then I know the old stuff is all gone. I would then shut the running water, let some of it drain, and add 1 gallon of coolant. THAT would be my NORMAL flushing of radiator. But with distilled water, how do I do it.. ? Any suggestions ?
Thanks..
I would normally open the dain plug at the bottom, keep the car running and stick a hose with water running into the radiator. When the water runs clear, then I know the old stuff is all gone. I would then shut the running water, let some of it drain, and add 1 gallon of coolant. THAT would be my NORMAL flushing of radiator. But with distilled water, how do I do it.. ? Any suggestions ?
Thanks..
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,675
Likes: 58
From: Hayward (Bay Area) CA
Originally Posted by schpenxel
Changing the fluid isn't going to help that, cleaning the radiator and AC condensor will. Pull the plastic cover off on top of the radiator/condensor and get the car high enough to look under it and I think you'll find a ton of trash filling the airway of the radiator. I was seeing 220+ all the time, pulled radiator and condensor, cleaned them with a 3000psi pressure washer and now I can sit in 100+ degree stop and go traffic with the AC on high and never get over 196.
To get temps as low as mine however, the fans will have to be reprogrammed, but they shouldn't be as high as yours are when cruising for sure
To get temps as low as mine however, the fans will have to be reprogrammed, but they shouldn't be as high as yours are when cruising for sure
schpenxel, I have heard what you said many times. My car was on the rack yesterday, so I took the opportunity to look underneath. I looked under, in the front, where the big plastic cover is.. and saw the radiator was clear of everything. There were some small twigs, which I cleared... and that made no difference. My mechanic says I'll have to pull the fans out, if I wanna shoot air or water at high presure pushing any debris in the front direction. I dont wanna pull the fans out ...
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 538
Likes: 0
From: Edmond Ok
Originally Posted by Vette_Fan
True! But the book says, within 5 yrs change fluids. Its a 99 model, so I think I should change. Besides, car is constantly running Hot @ 220+ Oil & Coolant. Even A4 tranny is around 220+. And this is within a short distance, within town. Avg temp here is about 70-80 degrees. WTH...
WTH... On running hot, mine runs about this in town, short distances and relatively slow speeds. The fans kick on it cools down (w/o ac on) from approx 225 to 215 or so. When I am on the highway around 90-95 ambient temps the coolant runs around 190 - 194. Oil temps are above 210. I would not worry about oil temp in the 210 to 220 range. FYI mine is a 98 mn6 so I don't know about the A4 temps.
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 19,964
Likes: 6,768
From: Bonneville Salt Flats
As I recall, either my Owner's Manual or my Shop Manuals state "Havoline Dexcool," as well.
All the best.
And, drain plug info from another post...
"BTW, to open your draincock, just use the square end of a 1/4" drive nutdriver or extension bar on a ratchet. No sockets or wrenches are necessary. After giving it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, I used some needle nose pliers and grabbed hold of it and pulled it straight out of the radiator. It drains much faster. (Just don't be looking too closely directly at the draincock or you'll get a facefull of coolant) Just make sure the o-ring is there when you remove it and is in good shape. If you're not used to dealing with plastic end tanks or plastic draincocks, just remember to go easy. When re-installing the draincock, I used the needlenose pliers to insert it straight back in the hole in the same position I removed it, and then used the 1/4" drive nutdriver to give it 1/4 turn clockwise. You will feel a slight resistance when it is tight. Stop there. Don't get aggressive trying to tighten or you will probably break things. If in doubt, pour some liquid into the system and check for leaks. HTH "
All the best.
And, drain plug info from another post...
"BTW, to open your draincock, just use the square end of a 1/4" drive nutdriver or extension bar on a ratchet. No sockets or wrenches are necessary. After giving it a 1/4 turn counter-clockwise, I used some needle nose pliers and grabbed hold of it and pulled it straight out of the radiator. It drains much faster. (Just don't be looking too closely directly at the draincock or you'll get a facefull of coolant) Just make sure the o-ring is there when you remove it and is in good shape. If you're not used to dealing with plastic end tanks or plastic draincocks, just remember to go easy. When re-installing the draincock, I used the needlenose pliers to insert it straight back in the hole in the same position I removed it, and then used the 1/4" drive nutdriver to give it 1/4 turn clockwise. You will feel a slight resistance when it is tight. Stop there. Don't get aggressive trying to tighten or you will probably break things. If in doubt, pour some liquid into the system and check for leaks. HTH "
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 731
Likes: 0
From: Calgary Alberta
You're missing the most important fluid.
The brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years. Because this fluid is hydroscopic, it will begin to accumulate moisture after 3 years. This can cause rust (internally in your brake system) and may start to create some braking or ABS issues. I would upgrade the brake fluid to either a DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (more synthetic or silicone content), they are less prone to water absorption and also handle the heat better.
Since your at it, you might as well change your power steering fluid too.
Royal Purple Max EZ power steering fluid works well in extending the life of these cheap GM power steering pumps.
I don't think there are any other fluids left to change.
Good Luck!
The brake fluid should be replaced every 3 years. Because this fluid is hydroscopic, it will begin to accumulate moisture after 3 years. This can cause rust (internally in your brake system) and may start to create some braking or ABS issues. I would upgrade the brake fluid to either a DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 (more synthetic or silicone content), they are less prone to water absorption and also handle the heat better.
Since your at it, you might as well change your power steering fluid too.
Royal Purple Max EZ power steering fluid works well in extending the life of these cheap GM power steering pumps.
I don't think there are any other fluids left to change.
Good Luck!