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Cleaning block deck..for head install??

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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 07:29 AM
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Default Cleaning block deck..for head install??

I'm used to cleaning iron blocks for new head gaskets, aluminum is a first for me, I've already used the "plastic ice scraper" to remove most of the coating. What have you used to get the block perfectly clean and smooth for new gasket install? I am going with Cometic gaskets. Thanks! Greg
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 09:13 AM
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After going over the block real good with the plastic scraper, I used rubbing alcohol to remove the last of the residue from the deck surface.

Keith
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 11:08 AM
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The last h/c I did, I used a razor blade to get the last bit of graphite off the block. It worked like a charm. If you are going to use the cometic's, I would highly recomend getting ALL of the old residue off. Those things LEAK. You may want to consider G.M.'s MLS gaskets. Darn nice gasket for $35.00.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by new vetter
The last h/c I did, I used a razor blade to get the last bit of graphite off the block.
Be extriemely careful using a razor blade on the deck surface. A nick or gouge will be cause major sealing problems.

Keith
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 12:27 PM
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try some "scotch brite pads" and some brake cleaner for the final prep. Follow with brake cleaner and some clean lint free rags.
O these sore fingers
keep the cleaner out of the cyl.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by kromberg
Be extriemely careful using a razor blade on the deck surface. A nick or gouge will be cause major sealing problems.

Keith

Agreed!
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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Thanks guys! this info will help
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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I used the plastic scraper followed up with lacquer thinner and a grey scotch brite scuff pad. Worked great.
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Old Aug 26, 2005 | 11:58 PM
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I always use a steel razor blade. The key to using a steel blade is keeping the blade at a low angle to the block. Lay the blade flat on the top of the block and lift the blade about 20 degrees and no more. If you get too high the blade will bite in to the block. I never use a tool to hold the blade, just my fingers. Also very important when using a razor blade, mark your blade and always keep your mark on top. Don't flip the blade over. The longer you use the blade the more the edge will bend up, if flipped over the bent edge will then dig into the block. Keep scraping until nothing else comes off. If you see bright shiny shavings your pushing too hard and you went too far! Expect to used 4-8 blades, when I think I'm done I get a new blade and go over everything one more time. It will still look dirty but when you feel it with you finger it should be smooth as a baby's butt. I use brake clean on most all the engine parts. It cleans good and leave no residue behind.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedyZ
I always use a steel razor blade. The key to using a steel blade is keeping the blade at a low angle to the block. Lay the blade flat on the top of the block and lift the blade about 20 degrees and no more. If you get too high the blade will bite in to the block. I never use a tool to hold the blade, just my fingers. Also very important when using a razor blade, mark your blade and always keep your mark on top. Don't flip the blade over. The longer you use the blade the more the edge will bend up, if flipped over the bent edge will then dig into the block. Keep scraping until nothing else comes off. If you see bright shiny shavings your pushing too hard and you went too far! Expect to used 4-8 blades, when I think I'm done I get a new blade and go over everything one more time. It will still look dirty but when you feel it with you finger it should be smooth as a baby's butt. I use brake clean on most all the engine parts. It cleans good and leave no residue behind.


I just did a set of heads today. No problems at all.
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Old Aug 27, 2005 | 11:08 PM
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Careful razor blade execution of the heavy stuff using the techniques already discussed....then (with the dowels out of the block) I use a medium length bodyman's longboard (about 3 X 10" or so) with 320-400 wet/dry sandpaper using WD40 as a cutting lubricant and a cleaner. The finished results dont come any better. I do it with even pressure (light) and work my way diagonally across the head trying to maintain the same stroke speed and amount of lateral movement. Then I go the other diagonal and do the same thing creating a very fine cross-hatch effect on the deck that the Cometics can bite into ever so slightly. I usually do two passes in each direction assuming a got the block pretty clean beforehand (no heavy stuff). Its impossible to warp the deck with the straightedge (longboard), not to mention it would take you quite awhile in the same location with that fine a paper so no worries and a beautifully prepped deck surface when your finished....

Tony M.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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Razor blade then very fine wet/dry sandpaper to get a bright Aluminum finish. H/C has been in for 5000miles and zero issues.
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 12:45 PM
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Hi Guys, I took all of your suggestions, spent 2hrs. on each deck (I'm not getting paid..so why hurry!) block is very clean...see pic... and I'm ready to install heads as soon as they get here! Many thanks! Greg




Last edited by 3Vettes@Home; Aug 28, 2005 at 12:50 PM.
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