2001 new owner....pinging, please help
The car does have a blackwing filter installed. I have my own opinions about aftermarket stuff, but could the blackwing cause the engine to run leaner than the computer can compensate for as far as AFR? Also, I would think the knock sensor would kick in to retard the timing during the most aggressive of the pinging but the manual says "don't worry, pinging is normal...", so it might be out of the knock sensors parameters. Right. I don't want the pinging to degrade to pre-ignition, and really, I'm not so sure that a car like this should ping under heavy acceleration (?)
I have read about catch cans to reduce oil vapor entering into the combustion chamber and effectively reducing the octane rating of the car...hopefully it'll help. Also, I will try to seafoam clean the engine and knock off any carbon deposits from the combustion chamber / pistons.
Anything else? Is there a way to read parameters "real-time" to see what the timing, AFR and knock sensros are doing? Is a Predator in my future to enrichen the fuel? Is it a lean running issue? So far, I'm a little disappointed, but look forward to learning...
R/
Dustin
When I bought my 2001 Coupe the original owner had just installed an aftermarket MAF on the car that pinged @ 5,500 rpm and above during wide open throttle runs. I replaced the aftermarket MAF with the stock unit and the pinging went away.
If you have the stock airbox I would try installing and see what it does.
Good Luck.





I reinstalled the stock filter box, and ran the car until it came upt to temp. It is cooler today, but it should replicate last night's conditions. 200 water temp and 220 oil temp. About 5-6 WOT runs and I did detect some pinging, although I could only really only hear it above 4000 rpm...and then just barely; but there.
I also tried some higher gear, low speed, high manifold pressure runs and it seemed to ping a little more as expected at lower rpms, but smoothed out once the rpm's caught up.
At any rate it is quite a bit better from last night, and maybe just reinstalling the the stock box fixed an unknown air leak.
The manual says not to worry...normal for accelerating or hill climbing but I just cannot remember the last performance car I drove that would ping under hard acceleration including my air-cooled 911 in VERY hot wetaher unless something was wrong.
I can't imagine all these C5's ping do they?
Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
R/
Dustin
Okay, its about the same as the day I picked it up. Hard or WOT runs will make it ping in 1st gear throughout the rev range. Higher gears will also yield some pinging, but not until higher in the rev range.
It almost seems like the advance is coming on too fast in first, and at 4500+ the car goes full advance. I tried some higher gear, low rpm, high manifold pressure testing again and the car was dead silent...not a single ping. My final thought would be to clean the MAF as it had the Blackwing installed and may have been comtaminated...
Anyone have the timing graph for a 2001?
R/
Dustin
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
1998-2002: Service Bulletin: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set
Subject: Audible Spark Knock (Detonation), MIL Illuminated, DTC P0332 Set (Replace Rear Bank Knock Sensor and RTV Area Around Sensor)
Source: Chevrolet Dealer Technical Service Bulletin
Number: 02-06-04-023
Models: 1998-2002 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette, 1998-2002 Pontiac Firebird
with 5.7L Engine (VIN G -- RPO LS1)
1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models (Avalanche, Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Suburban, Yukon, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL) with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINs V, T, Z, N, U -- RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ9, LQ4)
Condition:
Some customers may comment on a mild to severe engine ping (commonly referred to as spark knock), usually worse during acceleration and/or an illuminated MIL. Upon investigation, the technician may find DTC P0332 set.
Cause:
This condition may be the result of corrosion of the rear bank knock sensor due to water intrusion into the sensor cavity. This condition is more apparent on vehicles in which customers frequently wash the engine compartment.
Correction:
Replace the rear bank knock sensor and build a dam (wall) around the sensor using RTV to divert water away from the sensor. Use the procedure and part number listed below.
Remove the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Remove the wiring harness assembly from the knock sensor.
Remove the rear bank knock sensor.
Install the new rear bank knock sensor. Tighten the knock sensor to 20 N·m(15 lb ft).
Install the wiring harness assembly to the knock sensor.
Apply a bead of RTV silicone sealant approximately 9 mm (3/8 in) wide and 6 mm (1/4 in) high along the outside edge of the ridge on the engine block valley cover around the rear bank knock sensor. DO NOT form a complete circle. Leave the rear section open as shown.
From the underside of the intake manifold, completely remove the rear intake manifold seal (foam material).
Install the intake manifold. Refer to the Intake Manifold Replacement procedure in the Engine Controls sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
Parts Information:
Part Number
Description
Qty
10456603
Sensor, Knock
1
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
J4437
(F-Car)
Sensor, Knock -- Replace
1.7 hrs
Add
(1998-1999 F-Car Only)
To Remove EGR
0.2 hr
J4437
(Y-Car)
Sensor, Knock -- Replace
1.6 hrs
J4437
(C/K-Truck)
Sensor, Knock -- Replace
1.5 hrs
Add
(C/K Truck Only)
With Three Piece Engine Covers
0.2 hr
Add
(All)
Diagnosis Time
0.3 hr
Add
(All)
To RTV Area Around Sensor and Remove Intake Manifold Seal
0.2 hr
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Let us know how your turns out!
I think im going to replace my factory plugs to see it that helps. 30k on them now and I hear the platinum "pucks" on the electrode are falling off. Perhaps if a few pucks are missing it might cause some pinging. It will also allow me to inspect the plug condition to see if its running too lean.
Please keep me informed. I was looking at the Predator option as well thinking that a performance tune may provide a fatter AFR to prevent the pinging. Obviously not the case. Truthfully, I don't mind retarding the timing and/or richening things up so long as the pinging goes away. I wish I didn't have to, and I may not if this TSB pans out. If it indeed is a simple knock snesor replacement, so much the better.
Okay, since it has cooled down about 20 degress from yesterday, my evening drive tonight yielded FAR less pinging. However, I suspect as the engine got hotter, the pinging would manifest itself again, but it did make me think.
Would anyone be able to confirm my thoughts on the ignition/fuel map (I assuming its a variety of 3D mapping)...
I've really only had experience on cars that had ignition timing controlled by a dist with either mechanical, vacum or both types of advance. Basically, if the car was pinging, and the AFR was okay, then you could retard the timing a bit to stop the pinging.
Sometimes however if the intake air was too hot, it would take either more fuel (adjust the AFR) or really retarded timing, but in every case the ping could be defeated (of course power would be way down as well).
Because the corvette's ignition and fuel map are controlled by the computer, I would guess that the tables are based on a "standard day" with given parameters (?) The various sensors send info e.g. intake temp, coolant temp, throttle position, MAF voltages, crank position, cam position etc so the computer can then set the best AFR, and ignition timing etc based on what the car is telling it.
I would think though at some point the computer would not be able to adjust the ignition/fuel map to suit conditions outside the given parameters in the ignition/fuel map (tuned for both the EPA and performance, I'm assuming). Once the car experiences conditions that cause the pinging, the knock sensor would "over-ride" the ignition map to slowly retard the timing when detonation or pre-ignition occured (?) Obviously at some point, as the parameters came back into "normal" values, the knock sensor would release the timing control back to the map. I know most knock sensors can "hear" knock long before its audible by human ears in side the car.
Would anyone think that during very hot summer months, the knock sensor is constantly having to retard the timing? How aggressive is the "all in" advance on the C5?
R/
Dustin
My final thought on is that since the Corvette is a high performance car, the ignition/fuel tables are right on the very edge of detonation, coupled with a relatively high compression motor.
I have pics if someone could host.
Result. 100% of the ping went away in first gear, and I think I might have heard some very close to the rev limit in the 2 & 3 when the water temp was below 190 degrees. As things started to get hotter (200 water, 225 oil), the problem became more pronounced, but not anything like it was before...I'd say about 90% better. In fact it ONLY does it at WOT near the upper end of the rev range...say 5000rpm+ ANything less that WOT, and the car does not ping. I am going to throw a bottle or two of techron in the car and see if I can't get the carbon to blow out a little.
I will say that I think the other part of my pining problem may be a slightly lean condition. The plugs were white and ashy on the electrodes and insulator, although the insulator (ceramic part) did have a hint of brown to it, but certainly not like a nice golden color..more like isolated spots of very light brown.
It would seem to me that the computer must adjust the AFR right at the magic 200 degree water temp (or maybe intake air related). I could almost feel it in the car as the car started to lean out a bit, followed by a very LIGHT ping.
Perhaps with a Predator, I can back the timing off a degree or two at WOT or at least fatten up the WOT AFR. From the 2 gentleman that responded with Predators, what settings are you using?
R/
Dustin
Last week, I finally reinstalled the factory airbox, put the factory tune back into the CPU from the Predator and voila....no more pinging.
Like I said; for what it's worth.














