I am looking for some help. A few weeks ago I noticed a whining sound on my 2000 C5 that sounded like the a/c pulley bearing. Then a few days ago it went away. I discoonected my neg. battery cable to install a cag switch for the 1st to 4th b/s and the put the cable back on . Well the next day I was driving and then turned on the a/c but it was blowing hot. I checked and the clutch is engaged on the a/c and there is full static pressure on the lineset but its like the valves aren't pumping. Any help would be greatly appreciated b/4 I decide to purchase another on. I am not even sure how the easiest way to get it out and replace it. Thanks Kip

 

If you hooked gauges to the system and your only seeing equal pressure with the compressor engaged you need a compressor for sure.
I wish I could say they're easy to install.

 

Thats what I was afraid of. I geuss the easiest way is to take it out from the bottom or maybe remove the fender well. Thanks I tried hitting on it a bit to see if the valves were stuck but no luck.

 

Just changed the A/C compressor out today.
Some reports suggest to take out the rad and move the compressor forward. Others report to take out the exhaust manifold to move it back before tipping it up.
On my '01 removing the water pump was the most expeditious way.
Don't forget the water pump gasket in advance... or it will build down time.

I bought my replacement a complete used compressor with clutch assembly from Gene at Gene's Karshop delivered for less that the parts of the clutch assembly locally.

It's back together and working fine

 

How much did you pay for your compressor and is it reman. or new? I looked on Genes websight but couldn't find any prices. Is he pretty quick on delivery, say to Texas? Thanks ktrixx

 

Wait a frigen minute!!! The last thing you need to do is break into the system! there are a hunderd things that can cause the compressor not to function other a a BAD COMPRESSOR!

Check the DTC Codes in the DIC. Your HVAC is monitored by the DIC! Check and post all of the codes! That is the very first thing that needs to be done!

Common failure points are:

1- Bad interior temperature sensor.
2- Bad exterior temperature sensor.
3- Bad grounds.
4- Low on Feron! (compressor will cycle on and off or may not even run!)

Are you confusing the pulley turning vise the compressor clutch locking down and actually spinning the compressor internals???? Look directly at the front of the compressor. The hub in the center connects to the spinning outer pulley when 12 VDC is applied to the electromagnet clutch in the center of the hub!

You cant just change out the compressor!!!!

There are numerous other steps that you must take prior to installation of the new compressor!!!!

You need to figure out why the other one went bad (if it truely is bad!) and if any debreis are in the system. If there are, you need to flush out the system and install a new orface tube and new receiver/dryer. Then you need to add the required amount of referigent oil (the proper type)

Then you M U S T draw a vacuum on the system and refill it with the EXACT amount of freon or your going to be in the SAME condition that your in right now!

PLEASE! Start with reading the codes in the DIC and post them here! That will get us in the right ball park and maybe save you a lot of time and a grunch of money!

Yea, Im sure that there are a number of folks who are going to say that they ripped out their compressor and just installed another one and it worked! They got very lucky and most likley the compressor wasnt bad to begin with! If you have moisture in the system when you recharge it, it will cause acids to form inside the evaporator and eventualy, tiny pin holes will develop causing MASSIVE dollars to flow from your wallet!

 

 

OK I will see if there are any codes but it blows fine just hot, the clutch on the compressor is pulling in when the button is on, but when I put gauges on it it is a full charge as if its not pumping, I was just wondering if the shaft may have broke internally in the compressor.

 

I ran thru the dic and checked and there are no codes except for 3 old ones for the doors. But nothing on the hvac.

 

As mentioned earlier,you may have something blocking your freon.Usually it;s at the orfice tube.(aready mentioned by another member)When your old compressor stopped working it is possible that it contaminated your system,so it's recommended changing the desicant as well ,after you flushed the system.Did you replace the orfice tube and dry the system. Do yo think there is still air in the system?You may have to recapture your freon and flush the lines again with whatever GM recommends.If your new compressor has a broken reed and or shaft.piston etc.,,,it isn;t going to be quiet.You said it's clutch engages...what are the cycling time intervals on and off?Also...the other member on this thread told you to check a few other things.Possibly your evaporator is freezing up.Does your low side feel cold at all? The other member pointed out as well that your compressor originally was broken and this may have been as a result of something else in the system. You may have not fixed the original failure that caused your first compressor to breakdown.Remember your compressor cannot compress a liquid.If for some reason your freon isn't turning to a gas or vapour buy the time it gets to your compressor,it can bend or break the reeds(however you will know because it will be very loud.)

 

Ok I found a new V7 a/c compressor for 230.00 and got the chevy house to install it with warranty for 400.00 a/c is working great now. Thanks