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Traction Control off means hotter engine profiles?
I was getting my annual inspection sticker the other day and was biding my time in line by talking with a mechanic who seemed interested in my 2000 coupe 6 speed. He said he had a 2005 GTO with the LS2 engine and 6 spd. He told me that the traction control off setting puts the engine in much higher performance ignition and fuel injection timing profiles. He also said you would get better fuel economy. I told him my understanding was that if you started to slip on a rear wheel under load that the ABS would kick in and reduce fuel to the engine. It would only do this when you lost traction. Who's right?
Also, I have got a nagging soft rattle in the firewall/driver side dash area that I've put a lot of work into. I thought for sure that it was the HUD projector, but after removing the whole dash, the whole instrument cluster, and the HUD unit, it still does it. Could there possibly be anything in the heater core/evaporator area that could do this? It does it all the time but is most noticable at 30 mph when going over "cracked" or older asphalt.
I was getting my annual inspection sticker the other day and was biding my time in line by talking with a mechanic who seemed interested in my 2000 coupe 6 speed. He said he had a 2005 GTO with the LS2 engine and 6 spd. He told me that the traction control off setting puts the engine in much higher performance ignition and fuel injection timing profiles. He also said you would get better fuel economy. I told him my understanding was that if you started to slip on a rear wheel under load that the ABS would kick in and reduce fuel to the engine. It would only do this when you lost traction. Who's right?
Also, I have got a nagging soft rattle in the firewall/driver side dash area that I've put a lot of work into. I thought for sure that it was the HUD projector, but after removing the whole dash, the whole instrument cluster, and the HUD unit, it still does it. Could there possibly be anything in the heater core/evaporator area that could do this? It does it all the time but is most noticable at 30 mph when going over "cracked" or older asphalt.
Thanks for any help you can offer-
Bluemill
BUY AMERICAN!!!
Question one,he is an idiot.
Question two.I had the same problem,turned out to be the a.i.r pipes hitting the firewall behind the drivers side head.Might be a fix for ya,good luck!
Actually the traction control when deactivated sprays nitrous oxide into the intake. When it is activated it recharges the nitrous supply by reverse osmosis...
Actually the traction control when deactivated sprays nitrous oxide into the intake. When it is activated it recharges the nitrous supply by reverse osmosis...
I remember something like that on the Pontiac GTP, kind of. Instead of cutting back throttle to re-gain traction, it would cut back your timing. The system seemed not to work because you could still leave 50' of rubber with the Traction Control on, lol.
I second the AIR tube rattle. I ended up just putting a piece of heater hose over that section and zip tying it in place. As far as magic timing/fuel maps, you have to purchase a $68 electric supercharger to realize the maximum gains.
Actually the traction control when deactivated sprays nitrous oxide into the intake. When it is activated it recharges the nitrous supply by reverse osmosis...
sta-blk and fastguy, nice find on the AIR tube rattle, i had recently was in there to replace the check valve(code p1416)was the one BEHIND the intake manifold, i spent/waisted some time trying to get at it then pulled the intake manifold(15 mins if you don't have to mess w/ the t/body coolant hose)then no prob getting to the AIR tube--alright i'm lying, i had to remove the entire tube to the pass side ex man. to use more oomph to break loose the threads on the ck valve
I second the AIR tube rattle. I ended up just putting a piece of heater hose over that section and zip tying it in place. As far as magic timing/fuel maps, you have to purchase a $68 electric supercharger to realize the maximum gains.
I had the same problem after installing some LT headers and after handling and moving stuff around the air tube was just slight out of shape and was hitting a protruding bolt from near the master brake cylinder. After weeks of this driving me crazy a buddy came over with a very bright led flash light and shined it down in the area, sure enough you could see the pipe laying on the bolt. We tried using a VERY long flat blade screw driver to pry it away but that didn't work. So we cut some old black garden hose I had put a slit on it and slide it over the air tube. Problem solved.
Question two.I had the same problem,turned out to be the a.i.r pipes hitting the firewall behind the drivers side head.Might be a fix for ya,good luck!
Actually the traction control when deactivated sprays nitrous oxide into the intake. When it is activated it recharges the nitrous supply by reverse osmosis...