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I'm sick of the stock "let's drive blindfolded at night" headlights.
I know that there are HID aftermarket kits out there. What can I put on my 99? Is there an amperage/voltage limit that I have to watch out for (i.e. 6000K)? Can our vettes support high output HID's? I've been told to stay away from the 9005/6 bulbs. I understand the very basics of the ignitor for the Xenon arc that make up the 'blue' HID. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm sick of the stock "let's drive blindfolded at night" headlights.
I know that there are HID aftermarket kits out there. What can I put on my 99? Is there an amperage/voltage limit that I have to watch out for (i.e. 6000K)? Can our vettes support high output HID's? I've been told to stay away from the 9005/6 bulbs. I understand the very basics of the ignitor for the Xenon arc that make up the 'blue' HID. Any help would be appreciated.
There are other considerations when going with a HID setup in the stock lenses, but the rating of the stock electrical system isn't one of them.
A typical HID kit will look like a 35W bulb to the system.
It is highly recommended that you make your own headlight harness. yes its true that HID lights use less power but this is ONLY after they are fully warmed up and on. The initial ignition of the HID bulb and ballast will put a lot of strain that can damage an electrical system. I made my own harness wired directly to battery.
Best output from HID would be in a projector system, but that can get expensive unless you make your own custom setup like I did. It was very time consuming and required lots of finesse, but in the end payed off. Supposedly there is a new HID projector headlight kit that is made for C5's that replace the regualr halogen housings and retain the popup lights. Look like nice kits but I also heard they are pricey. I paid under $500 for my complete HID projector setup using only OEM stuff. Valeo projectors, Hella Ballasts, Philips D2S bulbs.
[QUOTE=JTS97Z28]It is highly recommended that you make your own headlight harness.
So you're saying that the initial ignition for the xenon requires more juice than the electrical system can tolerate in some instances? How did you go about making your own harness?
It is highly recommended that you make your own headlight harness.
So you're saying that the initial ignition for the xenon requires more juice than the electrical system can tolerate in some instances? How did you go about making your own harness?
I just looked at that site and it states that the kid includes fuses that protect the electrical system from damage.. its in the kit descrition
Yes that is correct. Although it would work fine for some time they say that overtime you will be degrading your electrical components such as headlight switch, wiring, etc etc. The harness is pretty basic. You will have a + and - wire going to each ballast (totally independant of factory wiring), a relay with one wire that you connect into the factory 9006 plug to get your switched power for the relay, and a nice clean ground (total of 3 one for each ballast, one from the relay). The main 12volt power wire I attached directly to the 12volt source at the fuse box which is also wired directly to the battery. There is a nice diagram of a harness online somewhere if I can dig it up I will post.
It is highly recommended that you make your own headlight harness.
So you're saying that the initial ignition for the xenon requires more juice than the electrical system can tolerate in some instances? How did you go about making your own harness?
Yes that is correct. Although it would work fine for some time they say that overtime you will be degrading your electrical components such as headlight switch, wiring, etc etc. The harness is pretty basic. You will have a + and - wire going to each ballast (totally independant of factory wiring), a relay with one wire that you connect into the factory 9006 plug to get your switched power for the relay, and a nice clean ground (total of 3 one for each ballast, one from the relay). The main 12volt power wire I attached directly to the 12volt source at the fuse box which is also wired directly to the battery. There is a nice diagram of a harness online somewhere if I can dig it up I will post.
I just looked at that site and it states that the kid includes fuses that protect the electrical system from damage.. its in the kit descrition
Well yeah but basically whats going to happen is you will blow a fuse everytime you fire up your headlights. Then you will put in a higher amp fuse in that will not blow but will now be allowing excessive loads on your stock electrical components.
Try for yourself, try firing up an HID light system with your stock 10amp headlight fuses, aint gonna happen.
Here is a diagram showing how to make a headlight harness.
Last edited by JTS97Z28; Sep 14, 2005 at 11:55 PM.
Dude, that's awesome! Thanks for the schematic, now I see...ha!
I'm going to call bling lights tomorrow and talk with them and see what they say. Thanks for the help!
It is highly recommended that you make your own headlight harness. yes its true that HID lights use less power but this is ONLY after they are fully warmed up and on. The initial ignition of the HID bulb and ballast will put a lot of strain that can damage an electrical system. I made my own harness wired directly to battery.
I've run HID's (Catz) on stock wiring for well over 50,000 miles. No issues whatsoever. you will be fine starting and running an HID setup.
i did use the upgraded harness for the PIAA 1100x fogs.
Last edited by BQuicksilver; Sep 15, 2005 at 01:08 AM.
Is this on stck lenses with stock height position? Pics would be appreciated as well
Stock lenses.....unfortunately.
I will buy projecters if and when someone makes them.
I adjusted my drivers side headlight slightly in and down just to be safe.
Also I used my kit with the stock 10 amp fuse and it works fine.
Recently I upgraded to a 20 amp fuse after reading a post on here that I might blow the 10.
I only did this to avoid the possibility of getting stranded with no lights.
I have the 4300K kit and it is a HUGE improvement over stock.
The white lines on the road almost glow.
sorry no pics @ this time.Will try to get some soon.
I've run HID's (Catz) on stock wiring for well over 50,000 miles. No issues whatsoever. you will be fine starting and running an HID setup.
i did use the upgraded harness for the PIAA 1100x fogs.
Yeah you can get away with stock wiring. I even did in my Z28 for like 2 years. Its just added piece of mind because if something does happen to the original electrical setup good luck fixing that. Besides, its best to give the HID's the cleanest power which is directly to the battery as a new headlight harness does. My point is, the stock wiring was NOT designed to handle the loads that HID's require at startup and even though it may take a long time for something to happen, you risk damaging your stock wiring. Just a recommendation from me. Its cheap and easy to make your own.
JT
P.S. here is a sweet pic I took of the output and cutoff of my Valeo HID projector setup in my vette. Try getting this output from your stock halogen housings
Best output from HID would be in a projector system, but that can get expensive unless you make your own custom setup like I did. It was very time consuming and required lots of finesse, but in the end payed off. Supposedly there is a new HID projector headlight kit that is made for C5's that replace the regualr halogen housings and retain the popup lights. Look like nice kits but I also heard they are pricey. I paid under $500 for my complete HID projector setup using only OEM stuff. Valeo projectors, Hella Ballasts, Philips D2S bulbs.
I was intrested in doing a simular thing. I found bi xenon projectors that are audi a6 oem for $450 http://hidtech.com/ fabrication is not a problem for me, as I kinda bandaided the problem of crappy headlights with a custom c5r driving light setup. Look at my corvette pix on the side. Also do you have any pix of the head light itself? The beam pattern looks great.
- really interested in seeing Molson's setup. I wonder what the light pattern looks like on the road... is it scattered or like horizontally linear like the output out of a projector....?
- really interested in seeing Molson's setup. I wonder what the light pattern looks like on the road... is it scattered or like horizontally linear like the output out of a projector....?
The light is VERY scattered and has literally no beam pattern at all. Lots of unwanted glare for oncomming drivers as well. The output of projectors is excellent if you look in my pics above. There is no light whatsoever above the cutoff line. Very little glare!
here is a picture of my housings just before I mounted the clear lexan outter lens over the low beam projector side. Turned out awesome.