When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
You want to start with the FURTHEST point and work to the CLOSEST point, in order.
The brake system was re-designed (in 2000 or 2001 I think), and it changed the proximity of the bleeder valves.
Sorry I don't have the order handy and no time to search for it now - I'm sure someone will chime in. For my 98 it was RR, LR, RF, LF.. I think it's different in newer C5's.
For newer models, the bleeding order is RR, LF, LR, RF.
To change the fluid:
Pull as much of the old brake fluid out of the reservoir as possible with a turkey baster. Refill with new. Then start bleeding the first caliper (RR) until you start seeing clear/clean fluid. This will take forever the old fashioned pump the brake pedal way. Get a vacuum bleeder from an auto parts store to save your wife/gf a lot of brake pedal pumping. Continue to work your way to all the calipers in order, pumping fluid through them until it turns clean.
a Motive Power Bleeder attached to the master cylinder with 10-12 psi works better then a vacuum pump. Vacuum pump bleeding can lead to air in the lines as the brake fluid could seperate under the vacuum.
a Motive Power Bleeder attached to the master cylinder with 10-12 psi works better then a vacuum pump. Vacuum pump bleeding can lead to air in the lines as the brake fluid could seperate under the vacuum.
a Motive Power Bleeder attached to the master cylinder with 10-12 psi works better then a vacuum pump. Vacuum pump bleeding can lead to air in the lines as the brake fluid could seperate under the vacuum.
Working with brakes for 12 years and an ASE certification, I've never heard of brake fluid "separating" under vacuum, but air will enter the system after the vacuum is shut off or taken off. Simply let leave the bleeder open for about 30 seconds, and let the air naturally gravity bleed its way out. If you don't have a vacuum pump and a second person but have alot of time, you can gravity bleed each wheel yourself without introducing air (make sure the master cylinder does not go empty!)
For newer models, the bleeding order is RR, LF, LR, RF.
To change the fluid:
Pull as much of the old brake fluid out of the reservoir as possible with a turkey baster. Refill with new. Then start bleeding the first caliper (RR) until you start seeing clear/clean fluid. This will take forever the old fashioned pump the brake pedal way. Get a vacuum bleeder from an auto parts store to save your wife/gf a lot of brake pedal pumping. Continue to work your way to all the calipers in order, pumping fluid through them until it turns clean.
I routinely flush my brake fluid and this doesn't take as long as you'd think. There really isn't that much fluid in the system. I have my 12 year old daughter all trained up as my brake bleed assistant and we can totally flush the system (once the car is up and the wheels off) in minutes. Several of my T1 racing buddies have borrowed her for their brake bleeds to save themselves wife/gf grief...