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I have seen a couple of shifter install threads, but I need a little more clarification. I just got my C6 Z06 shifter from fred beans (Thanks ) and it came with more than I was expecting. All the other ones just have the shaft that comes down to the shift ball. What I got came with what that part goes down into. Below is a picture. If someone could point me to some directions I would appreciate it. Or just let me know if it a stupid question. I have seen patches install instructions for his hurst shifter. Thanks
It has been a few months since we put ours in. Put the trans in neutral. Scribe around the edges of the shifter body flanges and look at where the bolts line up in the holes.(there is play so it can be moved foward or back) Then remove the bolt on the shift linkage. Use a piece of tape on the linkage so it doesn't fall down by the torque tube. Remove the bolts on the shifter body, slip the old one out (careful the edges of the panel are sharp and will cut your hands) and the new one in. Put the linkage and bolt back on. Then align the body to the marks of the old one and bolt it in place. Simple. We love ours.
Do a search for Patches' C6 installation. It was a big help for me. The worst part was getting the old shift **** pin out. I opened up the top of the shifter boot slightly to fit the shaft and used an oring to attach the C5 boot to the C6 ****.
We're all anxious to hear about the Z06 shifter. esp shifter travel, effort, noise etc. Be sure to post after you've tried it out.
you got the whole assembly instead of just the shifter. Normally you would take out those 4 10mm (I think that is the size) screws that sit on the top of the assembly and just switch the shifter.
In your case you will remove the 3 #40 (again I think that is the size) torx screws which will remove the whole assembly. If you can, lock the C5 shifter into neutral using the locking pin and then remove the 3 torx screws.
Once you do that you can then slide the whole unit out. You simply just replace you whole unit in again make sure the locking pin is set. Make sure you align the front screw with the notch on the shaft otherwise you will not be able to shift. Then pull the locking pin.
Dont worry if the locking pin can not be set it just makes sure eeverything is aligned easier. I used it the first time, but never used it again...
i just did this install myself,last night. it is as simple as it looks just follow the instructions above. the two screw holes on the side of the shifter are slotted on my car the shifter worked best with the shifter control pulled back as far as possible ,which is the way my original was mounted. i was replaceing a b& m ripper and found the throw on the z06 shifter to be a bit longer than the ripper but the shift effort is greatly reduced, also much less notchy than the b& m,very smooth. made my tranny feel brand new
john
I just got this shifter (C6 Z06) .. and I could not find my Torx #40, so I just undid the 4 - 10mm bolts on the shifter itself and just swapped the shifter (the lower half is identical on the C5 and C6).
I have not driven the car yet (no interior due to stereo/carputer install) but the throws are longer than the Hurst I removed, but much easier to shift. I love the ****.
Hope to have the seats back in and drive it this weekend.
Is the stock c5 shift boot going to work? It looks like the ***** are quite different. Should I just buy another shift boot? If so where should I get one?
Is the stock c5 shift boot going to work? It looks like the ***** are quite different. Should I just buy another shift boot? If so where should I get one?
i reused the original boot,i had to cut off the top portion about 1/4" and use a small cable tie to secure it to the groove in the ****
john
Is the stock c5 shift boot going to work? It looks like the ***** are quite different. Should I just buy another shift boot? If so where should I get one?
I purchased a short shift boot from Ken King at Vette Essentials. Works great
Well the stock shift boot certainly sucks with the c6 shift ****. I will probably try to cut it tomorrow to see how that works out. Does anyone know if the stock c6 shift boot fits correctly in the c5 opening? I saw the ones at vette esentials, but $55 plus shipping seemed like a bit much for a shift boot. I know that they have high quality stuff, but I don't have any other high quality leather.
I just got this shifter (C6 Z06) .. and I could not find my Torx #40, so I just undid the 4 - 10mm bolts on the shifter itself and just swapped the shifter (the lower half is identical on the C5 and C6).
I have not driven the car yet (no interior due to stereo/carputer install) but the throws are longer than the Hurst I removed, but much easier to shift. I love the ****.
Hope to have the seats back in and drive it this weekend.
You took the words right out of my mouth. It would seem there is less room for error with this method because there is no adjustment that could be lost. JMHO.
once you have installed the shifter take your c5 boot and cut the top off just below where it is rolled over and glued . slide the boot over the shifter, install the **** and retainer bolt,then pull the boot up to the **** turning it inside out until the cut top is pointing down and is even with the bottom of the c6 **** then use a small cable tie to secure the boot to the groove in the ****. cut the excess off the cable tie, pull the boot down and snap into the console opening and you are ready to drive
john
hey massarusty ,bet your out trying out that new shifter.what do you think about it? i like mine,itfeels like a good compromise between stock and b&m/hurst
john
I have not tried any other shifters, but the throws are definately shorter than the regular c5 shifter. You don't have to go as far forward for 1,3, and 5 so you can get to the A/C stuff better. I am pretty happy with it so far, my only complaint is having to fiddle with the shift boot. I am going to cut the stock one tomorrow and do what others have suggested above. The shifts do seem better and it definately does not take a lot of effort to shift like I have heard about some aftermarket shifters.
I was thinking about a new Hurst shifter until I went to the Miami Auto Show last weekend. I sat in a new Z06 and flicked the shifter a few times and what a difference compared to my stocker. I am also hoping that with the new slider and plastic "ball" at the shifter end that it will solve my popping out of reverse problem. How much do these shifters cost?
I have not tried any other shifters, but the throws are definately shorter than the regular c5 shifter. You don't have to go as far forward for 1,3, and 5 so you can get to the A/C stuff better. I am pretty happy with it so far, my only complaint is having to fiddle with the shift boot. I am going to cut the stock one tomorrow and do what others have suggested above. The shifts do seem better and it definately does not take a lot of effort to shift like I have heard about some aftermarket shifters.
Take the shift **** to a hardware store/plumbing store and get an oring to fit the groove. This holds the boot in place without the little hump of the cable tie. It's really easy. Really.
I paid about $200 for ours. I hope I'm wrong, but I don't think it will help with your trans problem though.
Any idea what it might be? It feels like it doesn't go all the way into gear, mechanically. If I hold it in reverse, push fairly hard, it will stay in reverse, if not it slips out and just hums with the gears just touching. I am hoping the shift linkage can be adjusted or the new Z06 stuff will tighten up the slop. First, third and fifth seem OK, but not perfect. It feels like a linkage problem – no synchros in reverse!
In your case you will remove the 3 #40 (again I think that is the size) torx screws which will remove the whole assembly. If you can, lock the C5 shifter into neutral using the locking pin and then remove the 3 torx screws.
Once you do that you can then slide the whole unit out. You simply just replace you whole unit in again make sure the locking pin is set. Make sure you align the front screw with the notch on the shaft otherwise you will not be able to shift. Then pull the locking pin.
Dont worry if the locking pin can not be set it just makes sure eeverything is aligned easier. I used it the first time, but never used it again...
PM if you need more help.
Bob
This worked great for me. Took less than one hour. BTW it is a #40 torx.