Best Rotors?Best Tires?
#21
Safety Car
Originally Posted by C6this
Lol, anyone else have some oppinons, I am not going to buy Napa rotors for my 60k sports car sorry. Thanks for the suggestion though....
#22
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Fayetteville AR
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I have the 2 piece Baer rotors front and back. The back ones are +1 (14'') and look great. They really fill up the rim and look very aggressive. The two-piece have aluminum "hats" in the middle that cuts down on the weight. And the Baers are slightly thicker and the cross-drilled holes are tapered so they should hold up very well for street use. I put them on myself and was very easy to install (just took a little bit to get the old rusty rear ones off). I also weighed them and the front ones (if i remember correctly) were the same (18 #?) and the 14 " rear was 1# lighter than factory (16#?). I installed the factory pads on them and I really did not notice an improvement in overall breaking in the long run. At first I thought they were biting a little hard but it could have been my imagination or maybe after they broke in were not as bad. I would think they would cool off quicker so maybe you would have less fade if you were getting aggressive with them. They are costly - but if you want the best-looking rotors (imo) and easy to install and don’t race then these are it. I think i bought all of them for like $800.00 (from tyburn on sale) plus pads. I don’t regret it one bit. Look killer and I get lots of complements on them. I was also going to install the SS brake lines too but I don’t race and I wanted to install the rotors quickly. I also read on the CF that some people were having problems with ss brake lines – don’t remember why. Hope this helps. Check out Baers website for more info.
#23
Team Owner
Member Since: Sep 2003
Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Has any one else notice that the guys who track their vettes for the most part dont use BBKs and stick with NAPA rotors and stock PBR calipers?
WHY?? Because they are the best combination to stop the corvette
Bear,( PBR or Colman - repackaged) and Brembos are never seen on the track.
on rare occations a Wilwood or Stoptech BBK may be spotted.
AP Racing brakes http://www.apracing.com in Italy
Doug Rippie Motorsports had them at one time too.
http://www.dougrippie.com
WHY?? Because they are the best combination to stop the corvette
Bear,( PBR or Colman - repackaged) and Brembos are never seen on the track.
on rare occations a Wilwood or Stoptech BBK may be spotted.
AP Racing brakes http://www.apracing.com in Italy
Doug Rippie Motorsports had them at one time too.
http://www.dougrippie.com
#24
Team Owner
I know stock calipers and rotors are not the best answer. All the entry fee's, pads, and tires we spend a ton of money. Bling rotors are a waste but the Stoptechs, AP, Brembo, and Wilwoods are better. I was afraid to get involved buying 150-250 rotors not knowing what the wear would be it could get real expensive.
I'll be trying the Stoptechs in the spring but they did feel good the first time out. Stoptech are 150 for a replacement and Wilwoods are 225 or more and I think AP are even more to replace. Then you get into a backup set The system I am using I can always throw a NAPA set back. I'm putting the same on the rear this winter and dump the Ebrake. I was tired of front rotors cracked every 2 or 3 days.
I'll be trying the Stoptechs in the spring but they did feel good the first time out. Stoptech are 150 for a replacement and Wilwoods are 225 or more and I think AP are even more to replace. Then you get into a backup set The system I am using I can always throw a NAPA set back. I'm putting the same on the rear this winter and dump the Ebrake. I was tired of front rotors cracked every 2 or 3 days.
#25
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Rockwall Texas
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What about warpping?
I'm looking to replace the brakes on my 98. I recently had the Stealership do an expensive brake job but only replaced pads and machined the rotors. They warped worse in about 1 month (mostly because of the machining I would guess). But my question is, Are the NAPA rotors good for heat? Or would they warp as badly as the stock rotors did? It seems like a drilled rotor would not warp as badly as a solid rotor does.
My vette is a daily driver and I do not race or have intensions of putting it on the track. But, my main concern is reducing/eliminating warped rotors (Without installing rear brake ducts).
Thanks for any help and I'm all ears!
My vette is a daily driver and I do not race or have intensions of putting it on the track. But, my main concern is reducing/eliminating warped rotors (Without installing rear brake ducts).
Thanks for any help and I'm all ears!
#26
Team Owner
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Location: Raleigh / Rolesville NC
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Originally Posted by DwarfDump
I'm looking to replace the brakes on my 98. I recently had the Stealership do an expensive brake job but only replaced pads and machined the rotors. They warped worse in about 1 month (mostly because of the machining I would guess). But my question is, Are the NAPA rotors good for heat? Or would they warp as badly as the stock rotors did? It seems like a drilled rotor would not warp as badly as a solid rotor does.
My vette is a daily driver and I do not race or have intensions of putting it on the track. But, my main concern is reducing/eliminating warped rotors (Without installing rear brake ducts).
Thanks for any help and I'm all ears!
My vette is a daily driver and I do not race or have intensions of putting it on the track. But, my main concern is reducing/eliminating warped rotors (Without installing rear brake ducts).
Thanks for any help and I'm all ears!
If your car is a DD then you really dont need to be worried about heat.
Heat is 1200-1400 degrees that nice glowning iron rotor.
and this is what happens to D/S rotors from even minmal track use and high heat
Warpped rotors are a myth. That felling of warpped rotor is from improper bedding of new pads.
Here is info on the warpped rotor myth from Stoptech
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
Bedding of new brakes
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...contents.shtml
Originally Posted by MadBill
Err...what else is missing on the C5R is any kind of ferrous metal in the rotors! Those are carbon/carbon pieces, around $6,000 each...
#27
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2005
Location: Rockwall Texas
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Originally Posted by AU N EGL
If your car is a DD then you really dont need to be worried about heat.
Heat is 1200-1400 degrees that nice glowning iron rotor.
Warpped rotors are a myth. That felling of warpped rotor is from improper bedding of new pads.
Heat is 1200-1400 degrees that nice glowning iron rotor.
Warpped rotors are a myth. That felling of warpped rotor is from improper bedding of new pads.
Cool picture, do you have a high resolution version of that?? It would make an awesome background.
Thanks for the good info,
-Loren