engine shake
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Richmond virginia
engine shake
hey, i bought my 2000 c5 coupe with 71,000 miles 2 weeks ago and the thing runs great! the only thing is it has a noticable shake to the motor on rotation at idle. when sitting at idle you can feel it in the seat of your pants. reminds me of a miss in my old muscle cars or a good cam lope in them. i had the dealer check it out and they said "thats normal". i dont get any check engine lights etc, and the thing pulls hard all the way thru the gears. is this normal?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 47,647
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From: Queens, New York Life begins at 183 mph....
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
If you are used to today's smooth engines, the LS1 may seem like it runs rough but its normal. Still, if its alot of shaking, you may have a problem. My vette has always shaked a little. Now, with my heads and cam package, its a bit more noticeable but its still very comfortable compared to other bigger cams.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Richmond virginia
cool, that makes me feel alot better, like i said it is just a little shake not a bad one. the rpm isnt really fluctuating so i dint figure it was something serious. i tend to be a worry wart when i first buy a car.
thanks!
thanks!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Are you still running stock plugs? If you want to smooth out the idle plurge and buy a set of NGK TR55ix irridiums. I had a set on mine before the blower and they really did help the idle. By the way, the platinums don't last all that long and the pucks typically fall off anyway. NGK is a good substitue.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 251
Likes: 32
From: S/W Illinois
Is it a 6 speed? If so depress your clutch to take the driveshaft out of the possible vibration source. If the vibration diminishes, you may have shaft problems. If its an auto, you can't disconnect the driveshaft any easy way.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,251
Likes: 4
Originally Posted by comfortracing
are the plugs hard to replace? do i need a special wrench. im used to 60's and 70's small blocks.
thanks for the info! what do you mean by pucks falling off?
thanks for the info! what do you mean by pucks falling off?
As for changing them, they can be challenging for the first timer with fat hands. #7 (drivers side rear) is the tough one. 25 minutes for all the others and 30 minutes for #7 and a loss of skin and blood. It helps to disconnect brake booster hose and flex out of the way. A standard plug socket and swivel and short extension are all you'll need. Remember the heads are Aluminum so you'll want to dab some high heat anti-seize on the new threads.
You may want to replace the wires with MSD plugs wires as well. The stockers are probably at the end of their useful life.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 139
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From: Richmond virginia
i'll tell you what i cant believe how this car pulls through all the gears and its stock! i had a lot of fast vintage muscle cars: a 600 hp big block 67 camaro for one that did not feel nearly as nasty as this car does.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,406
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From: Dallas Tx
Originally Posted by comfortracing
i'll tell you what i cant believe how this car pulls through all the gears and its stock! i had a lot of fast vintage muscle cars: a 600 hp big block 67 camaro for one that did not feel nearly as nasty as this car does.youve got light weight, even balance, and aerodynamics on your side now, welcome to the 1980's
Shane
Advanced
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 93
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Originally Posted by Shane_S
youve got light weight, even balance, and aerodynamics on your side now, welcome to the 1980's
Shane
Shane
Also, change the stock plugs. I started on NGK, using Bosch P4 now. This will help to smooth the idle. Also, change the wires while you are there and get rid of the metal covers.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 139
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From: Richmond virginia
welcome to the 80's hahaha omg! true, i went from pushing a brick through the air to a sleek missle....NICE! 
yep, im pricing out wires right now, any suggestions? what do you mean "metal covers"?
yep, im pricing out wires right now, any suggestions? what do you mean "metal covers"?
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 822
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From: Grafton Ohio
While you are changing the plugs, may I suggest cleaning your maf sensor as well. You can easily do it by spraying carb cleaner or electric contact cleaner. I have seen dirty maf sensors cause a rough idle but otherwise normal running conditions.
As far as the metal covers go, you'll find out what they are when youstart changing your plugs.
As far as the metal covers go, you'll find out what they are when youstart changing your plugs.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Richmond virginia
jers98vet,
just take the maf off and spray it? i know this sounds like a dumb question but i want to make sure i dont make a costly mistake. this is my first f.i. car.
thanks - chad
just take the maf off and spray it? i know this sounds like a dumb question but i want to make sure i dont make a costly mistake. this is my first f.i. car.
thanks - chad
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
From: Grafton Ohio
Thats how I do it. Just be careful not to damage the small wires inside the maf. Usually just a small amt of debris and oil will accumulate on the wires causing an erratic signal to the pcm. Cleaning the maf is especially important if you use an oiled filter such as a K&N. Over oiling the air filter will almost always eventually get some oil on the maf.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 498
Likes: 0
From: Fredericksburg Va
Originally Posted by comfortracing
welcome to the 80's hahaha omg! true, i went from pushing a brick through the air to a sleek missle....NICE!
yep, im pricing out wires right now, any suggestions? what do you mean "metal covers"?
yep, im pricing out wires right now, any suggestions? what do you mean "metal covers"?