When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
is this a good idea??? because my tranny lines are cut and is leaking fluid, so im going to just cut it there and run hose to an aftermarket trans cooler... a BIGGER one,..
if you do it, get the biggest. I got the second largest and now feeling like i shouldn't have skimped the extra 7 bucks
You guys that DO already have tranny coolers, where exactly did you mount them? And did you route the fluid lines only to the external cooler, or did you leave them going through the cooler AND the radiator besides?
I would think the radiator would run a lot cooler if it didn't have to deal with cooling down the tranny fluid.
You guys that DO already have tranny coolers, where exactly did you mount them? And did you route the fluid lines only to the external cooler, or did you leave them going through the cooler AND the radiator besides?
I would think the radiator would run a lot cooler if it didn't have to deal with cooling down the tranny fluid.
Its done both ways.
If you splice into the radiator line make sure its the UPPER return line!
If you bypass the radiator like I did make sure to plug the tranny cooler holes in the radiator or they will become contaminated with dirt. You might want to change back in the future.
What I found is that I needed the radiator in series because the tranny temps headed north of 200 with the B&M 70264 alone. So what ever way you choose to go, monitor the tranny temps on the DIC in all seasons to make sure your temps stay low.
What I found is that I needed the radiator in series because the tranny temps headed north of 200 with the B&M 70264 alone. So what ever way you choose to go, monitor the tranny temps on the DIC in all seasons to make sure your temps stay low.
I'm not sure I follow that at all. Pardon my asking, but why would the tranny temps rise if the radiator was no longer trying to cool the transmission fluid as well as the engine coolant?
I'm not sure I follow that at all. Pardon my asking, but why would the tranny temps rise if the radiator was no longer trying to cool the transmission fluid as well as the engine coolant?
That makes no sense. What am I missing here?
The transmission generates heat, correct? GM routes the fluid thru the radiator to cool it off(as well as bring it to temp faster). The friction from the TC is what generates the heat when it's unlocked. The 70264 was not efficient enough to counter the heat. So the fluid on my car runs thru the radiator to cool down and then one pass thru the B&M to cool it more, just as the install instruction state. If you use a larger cooler like an Earls or Setrab with a 2" core you may be able to cool it without using the radiator plus a cooler with a built in fan may work as well. I ran a B&M 70264 with a Spal pusher fan and the temps headed above 200 before I shut it down. Now with the new Dewitts radiator and the B&M in series my tranny temp is 160'ish at cruise. It's cold now but I'll know better once spring returns if the temp stays low in 80-90 degree ambient temps.
If your TC locks up sooner, this may not be a problem for you. I only offer my experience as a caution to those who mod their car and fail to monitor on the work.
Setrab with AN fittings here. It's mounted in front of the radiator and takes up about half the space. NO cooling problems either and I have the ATI twin kit too.
The tranny runs 160-80 whether it's cold or HOT. That's with a 2800 stall too.