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LS6 Swap, worth it?

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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 08:33 AM
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Default LS6 Swap, worth it?

I'm considering a Z06 motor in my '98 and wanted to hear from some who have done it. Is it worth it and what kind of power can be made without breaking it? Is it a better idea just to build something or start with the Z motor? Thanks.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:02 AM
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your '98 will good for at least 200k miles, better off just changing the heads and cam, that's the major difference between the two motors, the larger maf and pcm tuning would also help the combo along w/ the ls6 intake manifold
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by connecticut
your '98 will good for at least 200k miles, better off just changing the heads and cam, that's the major difference between the two motors, the larger maf and pcm tuning would also help the combo along w/ the ls6 intake manifold
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by connecticut
your '98 will good for at least 200k miles, better off just changing the heads and cam, that's the major difference between the two motors, the larger maf and pcm tuning would also help the combo along w/ the ls6 intake manifold
WHile you are installing the LS6 intake add the LS6 valley pan and run the newer PVC system. Cheap mod while you are in there.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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good point w/ the ls6 valley pan, too slow ck out www.ls1howto.com
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 04:24 PM
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What is wrong with your 98 LS1? It would likely be much less expensive to overhaul your existing LS1 with fresh pistons, rods, rings, and a decent heads / cam package then simply chuck it for an LS6.

You can make 375-425 rwhp without much trouble.

Mark
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 05:19 PM
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How many miles on the 98? Do a leak down on it.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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There is nothing wrong with the original engine. It only has 44k and runs strong. It's original so I'd rather not mod it. Also, if I decide to sell the car at a later date I will be able to sell the Z engine seperately. Sound like a bad idea? Thanks.
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Old Dec 18, 2005 | 07:02 PM
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You will spend a fortune and the mileage will still be on the car. Just do the H&C to your engine. Forget about original it's only a car that will be on the scrap pile next to mine.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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What about the LS1 bottom end and early ('97- '98) leakdown problems. If you are making 425 RWHP with a stock bottom end isn't it going to break? Thanks.
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
What about the LS1 bottom end and early ('97- '98) leakdown problems. If you are making 425 RWHP with a stock bottom end isn't it going to break? Thanks.
My buddy has a 98 pace car and he has done the HC & Intake, Long Tube Headers and B&B exhaust and he is making high 400s to the rear without any problems and much more with his 150 shot of the juice. I say go with the upgrades and forget the LS6 swap. BTW they made to many of these cars to be collectors items, unless you have one with 5 miles on it.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 06:21 AM
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It's not about being a collectors item. That's not why I bought it and I know it's never going to happen. I'm just considering a return on the cash.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
It's not about being a collectors item. That's not why I bought it and I know it's never going to happen. I'm just considering a return on the cash.

I don't think you are going to get any more $$ for it by putting in a Z motor. In fact, some people run like hell from a modified car [especially if a new engine has been put in] only because in their mind something was done to the old one...just puts a shadow of doubt you know? as for the Z engine, you can by the heads and cam and get the same 405HP on your stock bottom end...thats a good 60HP increase over your stock configuration and you will have a normal acting driver to boot.

I was considering a cam swap on my 97...but I opted for long tube headers and an LS6 intake to start...both by the way are great mods to wake up your early lS1 engine.

most people will tell you to do a cam or cam and heads to get more HP rather then a Z swap...as the time and money would gain more going aftermarket.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 05:59 PM
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I was only talking about a return on the cash if I yanked the motor prior to selling the car. Does the LS1 and LS6 have the same bottom end? I don't want to break it if it's not strong enough but I don't want to waste the cash either. Thanks.
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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The pistons are different but only SLIGHTLY. I think you should just put heads/cam and long tubes on what youve got. And get yourself an LS6 intake. If you're concerned about the car value then yank the origonal engine in its entirety and keep it in your garage and put it back in if/when you ever decide to sell it.

I WISH my motor only had 44k. I bought my car with 93k on it so i'm thinking i'll do a bottom end before any real big mods.

Shane
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Too Slow '90
I was only talking about a return on the cash if I yanked the motor prior to selling the car. Does the LS1 and LS6 have the same bottom end? I don't want to break it if it's not strong enough but I don't want to waste the cash either. Thanks.
No- the LS6 has a different engine casting # and has different internals and some minor things inside the block are different (passages and what not) putting te Z06 heads and cam on your LS1 will give you a poor mans LS6 so to speak. The price of an LS6 motor in your car at the time of sale may or may not pay for itself...it just depends on the buyer at the time...

you would be much better off just doing a cam swap on your LS1 and getting Z06 HP out of what you have now...in the long run, you will be out less money, while enjoing the added horsepower increase.

unless your LS1 is shot...that's what I would do...
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 07:22 PM
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Thanks for all of the info.
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 08:40 AM
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The LS6 internals are supposed to be stronger, with better flow characteristics built into the block oil and water passages. The rods are supposed to be better as well, which is where my 99LS1 failed on the track at 112K miles. Two rods through the block!

Here's a little chronology on power numbers for you to chew on:
I started with a 91K mile car, bolted on a cold air kit and Borla XR1 race pipes and put down 296HP 301#Ft. Torque. At this point the car had about 98K miles on it

I installed LGM headers and a custom 3 inch exhaust with SLP Cats, Xpipe and Borla Stinger, an LS6 intake, Shaner Ported Tbody and had Jeff from CAM do an LS1 edit tune. At that point I knocked down 335HP and 355#Ft. Torque. At this point the car had about 110K miles on it.

The car was exhibiting no issues with oil consumption or burning, and it made lots of usable power everywhere. I had done 3 track weekends on the car by the time Father's day weekend came around in June and I found myself back at VIR with a hole in the side of the block big enough to fit both hands in.

You got to ride in my car last week with the NEW powerplant in it, making 375HP and 370#Ft. Torque. The new Z06 Clutch is slipping and the thing still flies!

Where am I going with this? If you just do heads and cam, I think it would be VERY advantagious for you to do a few extra things if you plan to take the car out and track it like we discussed last week when you came down for a ride... You need to think about a hi pressure/ Hi volume pump from Melling, like the unit I have. You also should think about better bolts in the bottom end, and maybe swapping out the rods all together, which means a full rebuild. I know of FIVE other guys this year who have suffered rod failures!

If you're just gonna drive the car on the street and not drive it hard (And everyone has a different defenition of hard, You got a taste of mine last week! ) or at the track, then heads and cam will be fine. But if you plan to track it, I'd look at the LS6 and all the mods we discussed, and like I offered before, I'd come give your mechanic a hand and advice on what I personally encountered when I installed my motor!

Good luck and keep me posted!

Mike Kelly
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Old Dec 25, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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Default Thanks Mike

Thanks Mike,

I picked up the Cartech manual that shows the swap. You are right it looks like a bear. (everything out from the bottom) It also says the '97 & '98 blocks are not the best for the build up. (for many of the reasons you mentioned) I'm still mulling it over and I will keep you posted. Have a happy holiday!

Roy
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