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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 12:20 AM
  #1  
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Default removing engine

Well, I just did it. Not too hard, but Chevy could have made this process SOOOO much easier!!! Take the damn 30 bolts holding in the torque tube tunnel plate. I took my motor out the top with no problems. Basically tore the motor down to a shortblock, and then went through the steps to replace the clutch to break the torque tube to bellhousing joint. Did I get lucky, or did I miss something with everyone saying it was near impossible to get it out the top? Whole process took a total of about 8 hours (including tearing down the motor and removing the supercharger system). Now I'm just waiting for the C5R block to get here from the machine shop (via UPS). But now for the questions.

Do you guys use the timing chain tensioner with a double roller setup? Past motors I built, that was a no-no.

Also, are there any tricks to getting the torque tube back into the bell housing and clutch??? That's the only part I'm kind of fearing right now.

And finally, what are the largest high impedance injectors out there? I thought I saw some 60# high imp. injectors before, but can't find them again. Does anyone make a PCM mod to allow the stock PCM to use low imp. injectors?

Soon, I will be putting some of my stock parts up for sale. Including the stock Z06 heads, complete LS6 intake and throttle body, and possibly the shortblock (9K miles). Also looking to possibly sell the complete A&A P1SC supercharger system and Kooks 1-7/8" headers/x-pipe (looking at going with the TTi stage X twin turbo system instead). These parts are not yet for sale, but kind of judging if there is interest. I need to sell some of these things to make up a VERY small portion of the cost of the new motor.

Merry Christmas,
Derrick

Last edited by tazinhawaii; Dec 20, 2005 at 12:23 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 05:59 AM
  #2  
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Would it be just as easy to pull the engine with the heads still on? Also, as far as your injector questions, Motoron makes some good 60#ers. If you go bigger than you will probably need some serious bucks to do the job right with other fuel management stuff. I'm pulling my motor for the first time in a few weeks. Any more tips to offer? Did you drop your front cradle all the way? I will have my rear and the torque tube out already due to replacing gears for the second time and putting in a LGM coupler on the DS.
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Old Dec 20, 2005 | 08:15 AM
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Acceleronics (I think that's the name, it's Jeff Stevens' company out in California) makes a conversion box allowing for the use of big injectors with stock PCMs.
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 12:36 PM
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AGChoset, Thanks. I'll look them up.

Cajundude,
I didn't touch the front cradle at all. At first it was just to prove it could be done. But after doing it, as long as you remove the motor mounts during the process, there was no issues with interference from the front cradle. As for doing it with the heads on, I think it should come out fine. I would still remove the intake due to space at the rear, but the heads I think would fir. The biggest problem with leaving them on I think is the damn wiring harness brackets mounted to the back of the heads and the block. I would hate to have to get those off with the heads still mounted. The only other 'hard spot' I had was the damn leveler on the engine hoist. It was about 1.5" too long and was hitting the underside of the window shelf (the area that the wipers rest on). I don't think I'll use it on the installation process though. Hope this helps.

Hopefully I'll be reinstalling the new motor tomorrow or the next day, and I'll keep you posted on how that part goes. It's always easier to rip out than to reassemble...

Derrick
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 12:45 PM
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Thanks! I look forward to hearing your comments!
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Old Dec 21, 2005 | 04:25 PM
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Nice work Derrick. Let me know when you're ready to sell that LS6 intake...I need one and I'm local!
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Old Dec 22, 2005 | 11:34 PM
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Well, I got the motor in today. Really not anywhere's near as difficult as I thought it was going to be. I didn't do it with the heads on though either. It was just me, and the wife operating the engine hoist for me. My biggest advise is to keep the motor mounts off until the torque tube ipuit shaft is at least engaged with the clutch. Other than that, nothing out of the ordinary. Once the 'wings' of the oil pan make it over the front cross member, it slides right in.

EFI-1,
I haven't really thought about prices yet for the old parts, but I would love to sell everything locally if you want any other items or know of someone that might. If you want the intake/throttle body, let me know. I was thinking $450 for it all (intake, throttle body with motor and TPS). If you're interested, then please PM me and I'll give you my addy and phone #.

Thanks,
Derrick
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Old Dec 23, 2005 | 02:40 AM
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I'll take the headers. (pending price)
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Nice job Derrick. I've had my motor out three or four times now for various reasons and we've left the heads on. We've unbolted the whole lower front cradle, split the front upper a-arms and essentially moved the whole engine, clutch, subassembly forward a few inches, then connected a hoist and disconnected the engine from the lower subassembly and worked it forward and out.
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 04:47 PM
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I plan on doing my clutch and taking the 4.10s out and replacing with 3.42s at the same time as the engine. I guess it should be pretty easy to get the motor out with the rear and the torque tube already off, right?
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 07:14 PM
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Default SHE's ALIVE!! Well, kind of.

Well, I finally fired her up this morning. Ran like crap (computer needs to relearn everything, and I don't have a good LS1 edit program yet), but she ran. But I had no oil pressure after about 10 seconds of running, so I shut her down. I thought maybe I popped the welsh plug out in the front of the block for the oil galley, but after tearing the front down, it was still nicely JB welded in place. So I put the front back togetehr and turned her over using the starter (plugs removed) and she built up oil pressure. I guess I just had to wait another 2-3 seconds when she fired up for all the galleys to fill/pressurize. I also found a bad plug wire (must have damaged it in the tear down). So now I'm back to reassembly.

Subdriver, I was actually going to do it your way, but I fugured I would try it without pulling the subframe, presto, it worked. BTW, where are you stationed now? I'm still on the Bremerton out here in the yards in Pearl. Going to be an NR rep. here in Pearl after this tour is done.

American_HP,
I need to get the twin turbo kit before I can take the headers off. Hopefully mid-January I'll have them up for sale. Please send me a PM reminding me you want them, and I'll contact you before I even list them elsewhere to see if you still want them.

To ALL, a MERRY CHRISTMAS and a ENJOYABLE VETTING NEW YEAR!!
Derrick
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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by tazinhawaii
Subdriver, I was actually going to do it your way, but I fugured I would try it without pulling the subframe, presto, it worked. BTW, where are you stationed now? I'm still on the Bremerton out here in the yards in Pearl. Going to be an NR rep. here in Pearl after this tour is done.
Good to know you can do it without taking off the subframe.

I'm finishing up a training pipeline and about to go onto sea duty in Bangor, WA. Congrats on getting picked up as an NR rep and even better that you get to stay in Pearl. Mele Kalikimaka!
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