My battery is running down if the car sets for about 8 days.

The battery is fully charged each time, its about 7 months old and tests out fine.

If I disconnect the negative cable and connect a test light, the test light lights up indicating a draw on the battery.

I have pulled each fuse, breaker and relay individually and the test light remains on. In both the engine compartment fuse box and the interior fuse box.

After a lot of time, here is what turns the test light out.

If I pull interior fuse # 5 (the radio), fuse # 25 (body control module - ignition1, instrument panel control) and engine compartment fuse # 3 (right headlamp motor) or fuse # 4 (left headlamp motor) all at the same time, the test light goes out. If I put anyone of these back in, the test light comes back on.

Another observation is if I leave the headlamp fuses in I hear a clicking sound and the ***** used to mannually open the headlight doors are very slowly turning.

If I go to reconnect the negative cable I can hear a lound clicking sound which I beleive is related to the headlight doors.

Is there a RELAY in the engine compartment for the headlight door motors. Ths clicking sound makes me think there is and may be part of my problem.

The interior fuses may indicate a different problem.

I'm lost, hope someone can help.

Thanks.

 

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put fuses5/25 back in and close the doors.instead of using a test light,use a amp meter[a test light isn't going to let the car power down]hooked up in series[hook it up between the negative battery post and cable]and let the car power down.normal miiliamp draw should be around .015-.020.if what i think is killing the battery[headlamp motor circuit]you are probably going to see a high amperage draw,then pull the headlamp motor fuses,your drain should go away.when i get home i will look at the schematic and give you a idea of what the cause could be.

 

dpd is on the right track. I investigated C5 "SLEEP" mode battery current draw a while back for someone. There were a bunch of forum members with dead battery problems and I figured I'de bust out the FLUKE and learn something. Here is what you should do and what you will see:

Make sure all doors, trunk lights and accessories (Radar detectors ect) are OFF! Disconnect the hood light at the connector on the fan shroud.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Hook up a volt meter able to read at least 10 amps in "SERIES" (between the battery and the disconnected battery cable. Remember! Most meters have a seperate connection for reading CURRENT!!





When you hook the meter up and complete the circuit through the meter, it will read somewhere around 4-8 amps and drop down to miliamp range in 60-180 seconds. When you take readings, it will take about 1 min to 2.75min for the reading to step down to the finial reading. It will read like this: 8.5 , 3.6, 1.4, .02 amps or 20 miliamps.


As circuits and relays power up and are not used, the BCM will start to go into sleep mode and turn things off. It will start dropping power to lights and circuits and when all is said and done you should be around .02-.05 amps 20-50 miliamps. In the sleep mode all that is operating is the security system and memory circuits. The sleep mode current readings all depends on what options and what year C5 you have but it shouldnt be too far from this reading. I remember doing this to my 98 and the sleep mode reading was a bit higher. It was around .07 amps.

I just went out to my 02 Z06 and examined the headlight motors in the ON and OFF (Doors up and Doors down) condition. As soon as the doors hit the fully raised or fully lowered position, power to the motors turns off. The **** is easily moved without any resistance.

If you constantly have power to your motors, that is most likely your issue.

 

check he headlamp door control module.your fuses 3-4 are 30 power[constant]to the headlamp door control module to power the headlamp motors.give the thing a tap with a screwdriver[don't knock it off the car],if the motors now act normal,something in the unit stuck[relay,circuit,etc] or disconnect it and plug it back in,if it now works ok,either you have a bad connection or corroded connector or the unit is on the blink.i'm assuming the lights work normal and the doors go up/down as normal just when you shut it down the door motors freak out.

 

OK, thanks to both of you.

I will get a meter and check things out.

I have ordered a headlamp control module, thinking it may be a problem.

I will also check out the grounds.

Thanks again.

 

hAVE A SIMILAR PROBLEM ALSO LOOKIG FOR HELP.
I HAVE A 93 VETTE WITH BATTERY DRAIN, HAVE REPLACED THE HEADLIGHT SWITCH DID NOT SOLVE PROBLEM. I HAVE A DRAW AT THE HEADLIGHT MOTOR FUSE 30 AMP, AND THE EXT LIGHTS AND POWER ACCES. BOTH 60 AMP. WITH FUSES IN THE BATTERY WILL BE DEAD IN 3 DAYS. MY QUESTION ON THIS IS THERE A COMPUTER SOMEPLACE THAT IS NOT TURNING OFF THE POWER SOMEPLACE?

JOE