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Summed-up, it means I like cold air being directed at the intake filter AND into the engine bay to keep rubber and plastic-degrading temperatures at a reasonable level.
So how do you isolate warm engine compt air from the filter? And if you're cooling the engine compartment air by inducing air flow how is the hot air exiting?
What is an Icebox, how to make it / install it? Anyone got details on that? I've a Blackwing and I like it. Looking to do the cutout shroud mod soon. Would like to know more about Icebox...
What is an Icebox, how to make it / install it? Anyone got details on that? I've a Blackwing and I like it. Looking to do the cutout shroud mod soon. Would like to know more about Icebox...
I'll be off line for the next day but when I did the cutout it ran fine at the track but I had surging for every day driving. The PCM would sense the cooler air then adjust, then it would sense the hotter engine air and adjust again. It was bouncing back and forth like a ping pong ball.
I covered the cutout with a piece of plastic and the surging quit, so I made an enclosure. I didn't know about the Ice Box and my sponsor was going to have these units made from my prototype. My sponsor is no longer a sponsor and then I found out about the Ice Box so I purchased one.
The PCM will detect the airflow from the cutout and it requires about 50 miles driving to reset the fuel trims. I have no relationship with the guy that makes these things and in my opinion it's the only way to go.
Hope this helps you. I don't know if it will make your car faster but it made mine more consistent. I think this spring I will install the stock unit and see if I lose any ET. Good luck and Happy New Year to all.
Sure it's just a lid, but cut the shroud, and use some metal mesh(which I believe is included), and as long as it truly seals the engine compartment air out... I imagine it functions the same.
Last edited by dagon138; Dec 31, 2005 at 02:53 PM.
I am looking to ditch the blackwing and stock air bridge. I now have heads and cam. How is the new halltech stinger intake? Is it worth the $400 dollars or is there something else out there.
Ronnie
I Blackwing is a fine air filter if you know the tricks.
Nobody has mentioned the Honker. I have it and it is worth the money in my book. It is a one-piece unit from the cold air intake to the MAF which is relocated to the throttle body as GM has copied on the C6. It replaces the stock air bridge with one smooth flowing piece. The quality, fit and installation are all like you would expect from Callaway. Go to www.callawaycars.com to check it out. Reviews I've read have said it is one of the top hp producers.
Nobody has mentioned the Honker. I have it and it is worth the money in my book. It is a one-piece unit from the cold air intake to the MAF which is relocated to the throttle body as GM has copied on the C6. It replaces the stock air bridge with one smooth flowing piece. The quality, fit and installation are all like you would expect from Callaway. Go to www.callawaycars.com to check it out. Reviews I've read have said it is one of the top hp producers.
So how do you isolate warm engine compt air from the filter? And if you're cooling the engine compartment air by inducing air flow how is the hot air exiting?
Cold air is being directed at the bottom and sides of the filter, which is the front-man for a giant vacuum. Since the bottom and to a lesser extent, the sides are pressurized and the air inside the engine bay is fairly stagnant, the air being drawn in is primarily cold. I've monitored before and after CAI setup intake air temps with the Car Chip (auto data acquisition tool) and found intake to never exceed 104F under slow moving conditions on an 85 degreeF day. Before the CAI setup, intake temps exceeded 140F; that's a significant difference and a retention of 10 HP that would've been lost to timing retardation by the ECU. Of course, you can relieve some of the high underhood temps in your car by opening up the fog light panels and creating an escape for the high-pressure areas.
I have relieved high pressure, hot air buildup near the firewall by chopping off a section of hood seal - probably not the best thing for those who frequently drive in the rain, but fine for my driving. Ideally, a hood with proper openings would be the best way to do this, IMO.
Cold air is being directed at the bottom and sides of the filter, which is the front-man for a giant vacuum. Since the bottom and to a lesser extent, the sides are pressurized and the air inside the engine bay is fairly stagnant, the air being drawn in is primarily cold. I've monitored before and after CAI setup intake air temps with the Car Chip (auto data acquisition tool) and found intake to never exceed 104F under slow moving conditions on an 85 degreeF day. Before the CAI setup, intake temps exceeded 140F; that's a significant difference and a retention of 10 HP that would've been lost to timing retardation by the ECU. Of course, you can relieve some of the high underhood temps in your car by opening up the fog light panels and creating an escape for the high-pressure areas.
I have relieved high pressure, hot air buildup near the firewall by chopping off a section of hood seal - probably not the best thing for those who frequently drive in the rain, but fine for my driving. Ideally, a hood with proper openings would be the best way to do this, IMO.
Thanks Dave. What about surging? You didn't have any? I will hook up my Ease scanner and see what the PCM is seeing for temps and let you know.
Sure it's just a lid, but cut the shroud, and use some metal mesh(which I believe is included), and as long as it truly seals the engine compartment air out... I imagine it functions the same.
This does nothing to isolate the filter. I think they're saying it directs air to the filter. Look at the Ice Box and compare.
Special K - No, no surging that I can detect. I believe the LS1 has a wide bandwidth of A/F adjustment. Having an MAF screen helps matters as well. I'm sure you intake air will be very close to ambient.
Special K - No, no surging that I can detect. I believe the LS1 has a wide bandwidth of A/F adjustment. Having an MAF screen helps matters as well. I'm sure you intake air will be very close to ambient.
OK Dave. I had very noticable surging. Once I get this new software hooked up I'll know a lot more.
If I didn't have a tuner I was working with I would have no problem giving Chuck a shot at it. He stated he tuned for the street. I agree with that. If you get a near perfect tune for the street that leaves very few tweaks for the strip.
I've had the same tune for two years and it's done a good job for me.
But aren't you getting surging? See your post above.
I would have your tuner look at that, or maybe get a mail-in tune from Chuck, the Corvette doctor, of COW.
I'm sure he'll be able to fix you right up.
Do me a favor? Slow down and read this ENTIRE thread Would you please send me your contact info? I think I had it at one time but I either lost it or can't remember where I put it.
Do me a favor? Slow down and read this ENTIRE thread Would you please send me your contact info? I think I had it at one time but I either lost it or can't remember where I put it.
I did read the whole thread, and you didn't lose my contact info, you never had it.