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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 09:52 AM
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Default Head/cam install

I have a 02 LS1 Convt. Basically it's stock ( Vortex air intake, Ported throttle body, Granatelli MAF, Hypertech down load, Magnaflo Cat backs w/X pipe, Lg long tube headers. Anyway for my winter project I want to install a new Head & Cam package, Rockers w/push-rods and Hd valve springs. I don't want a drag racer i would like to keep it calm and I want it to behave itself on the street. But I don't want to do all this work and not gain a anything. I would really like some feed back from people that actually have had some kind of experience on there install not arm chair experts . Thanks in advance.....
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 10:42 AM
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On your current set up just a cam and supporting mod's will make a huge difference. Doing heads on top of the cam will only net you about 20-40 rwhp. A cam package will cost $750-850 + install. Heads alone are double that. If you have the extra $$ deffinately do the heads. Lots of good H/C packages over there.
<<<<<<---------------------------------
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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I installed a VHP cam last fall along with a Vararam (don't think that the Vararam provides much on the dyno) and a 10% underdrive pulley (again, don't think this made a huge difference). The cam is small by today standards, 216/224 .551/.551 115 LSA and I also installed Crane 1.8 rockers to bring the lift up to .583/.583

These changes brought my rwhp from 330 to 370 and it is very street friendly, and peak power is at 5,800 RPM.

I am now in the middle of working on a new set of Dart 205's that will go in the car in April
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 12:02 PM
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You can get some pretty big gains and still have a nice driver. Last year I installed a 225-225/595-595/114+2 cam from Texas Speed with stage II heads and made 410 to the wheels. I have since put on a blower and went with a different cam for that setup. If you want this cam it has about 3K on it and I would let it go for $300.00.
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 05:05 PM
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I have a mild setup. 224/228@114 mated with AFRs 205s milled .020
any cam in the 224 range is perfect for guys who want smooth idle yet can pull hard across the entire RPM band. I have a slight lope at idle but you can barely feel it in the car. I dynoed 416rwhp 384rwt with the other bolt ons. (see sig) If you want a completely shake free idle cam, go with the Thunder racing cam 224/224@114

make sure you have a good tuner though!

PS-If you want to see the car in person, come to the NY cruise on jan 8. Ill be there.

Ike

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...20&forum_id=40
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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From: 2002 E/B Z06
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Don't make the mistake of going too small with your cam choice. My last car had a 232/234 598 on a 112 LSA. With the correct tuning even a cam bigger than that will be VERY streetable. BTW are you doing the install yourself?
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Siriusvette
Don't make the mistake of going too small with your cam choice. My last car had a 232/234 598 on a 112 LSA. With the correct tuning even a cam bigger than that will be VERY streetable. BTW are you doing the install yourself?
230-236 112 XE-R cam here. I drive in in bumper to bumper - stop and go traffic with no problem. Speed density tune makes all the difference in the world.
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 09:13 PM
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Here's a detailed write up on my H/C.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1183050

Be aware that the power above 3-3.5k is explosive - forget it on runflats. Mine are go up in smoke every time. I'm still surprised when I get on it how much more power the car has. And the sound of the cam is awesome.

But you lose some of the low end torque between 1k and 2k, where you spend much of your time putting around in day to day driving. And I've got some surge down there if I'm not careful how I drive it. I know how to do it, but it makes the car harder to drive.

I had to ditch my Borlas after the H/C, just too loud for everyday. I went with Z06 TI's but I'm going to get cutouts because those are too quiet.

If you've got more questions I'm happy to share my experiences, both good and bad.
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Old Jan 1, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ikester
I have a mild setup. 224/228@114 mated with AFRs 205s milled .020
any cam in the 224 range is perfect for guys who want smooth idle yet can pull hard across the entire RPM band. I have a slight lope at idle but you can barely feel it in the car. I dynoed 416rwhp 384rwt with the other bolt ons. (see sig) If you want a completely shake free idle cam, go with the Thunder racing cam 224/224@114

make sure you have a good tuner though!

PS-If you want to see the car in person, come to the NY cruise on jan 8. Ill be there.

Ike

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...20&forum_id=40

That is good advice, and he has a great setup. If you are on the fence I would take him up on his offer. I bet that is a well behaved car around town or at cruise, but at WOT I bet it roars and chirps. With the right clutch and a set of 390s it would pin your cheeks to your ears, not to mention the corners of your mouth!
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Siriusvette
Don't make the mistake of going too small with your cam choice. My last car had a 232/234 598 on a 112 LSA. With the correct tuning even a cam bigger than that will be VERY streetable. BTW are you doing the install yourself?
Not sure I fully agree, he should pick the cam based on what his goals are. If he is looking for more low end power, going to a big cam will hurt him depending on his selection. What he really needs to do is make a shopping list of what he is looking for in the cars power and driving characteristics and that will help him rule out a lot of cams and focus his search.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 09:46 AM
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I'm using the Thunder 224/224 114LSA cam kit with a set of 1998 LS1 heads that were apparently over-ported, and 2.02/ 1.57 valves installed. Running a shaner Ported Tbody, LS6 intake w/ 28lb injectors and LGM long tubes/SLPCats/Z06 Tis. With a custom LS1 Edit tune, I'm only making 375HP and 370#ft. torque. Based on the claims of others with the same cam and induction/ exhaust, I'd expected over 400HP at the wheels. Our suspicion is that the heads were opened up to much.

That said, My thunder cam has minimal lope and idles well. I'm making over 280#ft. torque at about 2200RPMs. You can see the dynosheet here: http://photos.yahoo.com/dat74z Check in the Vette folder.

I've heard a ton of conflicting data about Patriot heads making good and bad power, so the AFRs sound like the only "sure bet" in heads, unless you get with a custom shop experienced in LSX heads!

Mike

Last edited by Mikelly; Jan 2, 2006 at 09:50 AM.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 09:53 AM
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You didn't mention whether you have an A4 or a M6, there are differences when it comes to choosing the right combo of parts. For my A4 to have 401 RWHP with 3.90 gears, I am very happy. The car is totally streetable yet a bit loud for a DD, unless of course you like loud. I'm not so sure of the specs of the cam, nor the brand of heads since it is a Vette Doctors proprietary Heads/Cam package, which is 5 years old BTW. Great low end with monstrous mid randge. I am very happy. Your goal is very attainable.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:00 AM
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Default Head/Cam Install

Thanks people for all you're excellent advice. I will be doing the work myself( should not be a problem) I will have all winter to do it in. Anyone know of a good tuner in Upstate New York? Thanks again ....
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Pewtavert
You didn't mention whether you have an A4 or a M6, there are differences when it comes to choosing the right combo of parts. For my A4 to have 401 RWHP with 3.90 gears, I am very happy. The car is totally streetable yet a bit loud for a DD, unless of course you like loud. I'm not so sure of the specs of the cam, nor the brand of heads since it is a Vette Doctors proprietary Heads/Cam package, which is 5 years old BTW. Great low end with monstrous mid randge. I am very happy. Your goal is very attainable.
Yes, Sorry I have a 6sp, I should have put that in.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Classical Glass
i would like to keep it calm
NO arm chair here...

Last winter I installed by myself an LG G5X3 (238+ Dur, .6xx lift) and stock Z06 heads on my 04 GTO. (GTO has LS1 engine with Z06 M12 Tranny from the factory). I started the project on Friday evening at 6 and topped off the anti-freeze on Sunday at 8 p.m.. This included a half-day chasing down a valvespring compressor that could compress the brutish CC 921 springs.

The car was a beast, and I tuned it on my own with some tips from Lou. It would idle in Dallas traffic all day without a problem...

However, when it started it would bring expletives to the lips of old ladies. The car shook at idle and it could get tiring. It depends on what you use your car for...keep this in mind.

Here is the cam - o - meter reaction chart:

LPE, Z06 Cam =

224/224, 224/228 =

G5X3 =


If I did it again...I would try exploring the awesome flow #s of some of the new heads...ETP, DART or AFRs. The Vette is much lighter than the Goat and will tolerate more cam and not feel lazy of the line. That being said, I might even consider some of the more exotic sleeper grinds like the Old Man Cam, LPE GT2-3 or even the stock Z06 cam. You could certainly go with something in the 224/224; 224/228 range and not be disappointed.

In summary..I'd drop on some awesome heads with substantial valvesprings, drop in a cam that you feel matches your personality. With the valvesprings already installed, you can always swap to a different cam without killing yourself on labor.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Closer_2001

G5X3 =

Go big...or go home.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Classical Glass
Thanks people for all you're excellent advice. I will be doing the work myself( should not be a problem) I will have all winter to do it in. Anyone know of a good tuner in Upstate New York? Thanks again ....
I'm in Rochester, too (Penfield). I'd be interested in who you might find around here to tune your car. I may consider heads and cam in my Z06 down the road. I'd also be interested to know what you decide on for your H&C project and what gains you get with it. I'm not much of a mechanic, but if you need a hand let me know. Good luck!
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Geneus
Go big...or go home.

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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Not sure I fully agree, he should pick the cam based on what his goals are. If he is looking for more low end power, going to a big cam will hurt him depending on his selection. What he really needs to do is make a shopping list of what he is looking for in the cars power and driving characteristics and that will help him rule out a lot of cams and focus his search.
I'm not trying to start a "what cam is the best" thread war here but....I see no reason not to go big when doing a head cam swap. Even a big cam will give you more power down low over a stocker. I don't understand the whole more power down low mindset. These motors like most make power in the upper rpm range so why not build on that. Who takes thier car to the track or just playing on the street and shifts at 3000 rpm? Nobody, thats who. 3500+ is where the fun begins.
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Old Jan 2, 2006 | 03:33 PM
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We have both heads & cams on special right now! We have camshafts from $359.99 & complete heads & cam packages from 1899! I like the 228R 228/228 .588/.588 on a 114 for a good hp & tq small-mid size camshaft. It gains abotu 42rwhp & will idle & drive very very good

Jason
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