I just installed a power antenna on my FRC and now my blinkers will not work right.

I took the car out for a spin and the blinkers worked fine. I let the car sit and run while I was in the bank; once I came back out, I go to use the blinkers, they don't work?!?!

There there a ground to the blinkers near or around the power antenna that I could have messed up??

 

The most common "turn signals not working" issue is a faulty hazard switch.

But since you just did you're antenna, that wouldn't be it.

Were they ever intermittent before?

 

That or by working on something electrical and you didnt unplug the battery it couldve caused a problem. But you said they worked immediately after you did it. Perhaps you grounded a wire somewhere and unluckily it effected the blinkers? The easiest check is to check a fuse first, then look deeper.

Other possibility, purely coincidence. Your hazard switch went up coincidentally when you had just done an antenna install.

 

Well as I sit and think about it.. I didn't touch anything electrical while doing the install..

The fixed antenna wasn't wired to anything but the antenna cable for the radio.. I just installed the power antenna and haven't ran the wires for it just yet.

While behind the pass. side taillight doing the install, there was a connector right behind the far right light. Its plugged back up right, but does it have anything to do with the blinkers? There's also two wires spliced together and grounded right next to one of the antenna grounds as well.. Anyone know what these are for?

Also, where is the hazzard light switch at??

 

Hazard light switch is right on your dash, above the radio kind of, you'll see it. Blinkers on most cars run through that. If it's messed up by any means, blinkers wont work. STILL check your fuses, it's always possible a fuse can blow for some reason or another.

 

Bad hazard switches seem to be pretty common. Try turning the hazard lights on and off and then try the turn signals. Works to restore the turn signals for a while on my '01.

 

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=6

 

It may be coincidental.

Check your DRL bulbs. Both times my DRL bulbs blew, the turn signal stopped working.


AJ

PS - the DRL bulbs are expensive and a pain to replace - have to take them out through the hole in the bumper for front brake duct tube

 

The daytime lights have been working fine.. I haven't tried the hazzard lights yet when the blinkers stop working.

I might be low on that... and I think the 710 oil cap will be my next mod!

 

I don't want to hijack the thread, but I think my question is directly related to this topic on the hazard switch. I've read numerous posts in numerous threads about the hazard switch. In my '97, I have one turn signal that works normally (driver's side) and the other one is crazy fast. Embarassing. But no burned out bulbs, I've checked four times. Could this still be the hazard switch, for only one side, or is it more likely to be the turn signal stalk that you use to turn the signals on?

If I turn my hazard lights on, both signals, front and back, come on correctly, but I've never been able to get the passenger signal to work properly by toggling the hazard switch numerous times as recommended in a lot of posts.

Blck00 - I hope you find the cause of your issues and it turns out to be something easy to fix.

 

There's a ground right next to the antenna mount in the rear housing. You can see it when you have the right turn signal unit out. The connector for the rear blinkers is actually under the rear chassis. Thats where the plug and play connector for the euro lights hooks up. It would be hard to disturb that just playing with the antenna.

 

Before mine went out completely, I was able to cycle the hazard lights a few times and the blinkers would start working again. Workked for 2 months until I replaced it. Genes car shop was my source for the new switch, about $25.

Mick

 

Good info.. I'll check it out next time they start acting up again!

 

I am pretty sure he knows where the hazard light button is, I think he wants to know where the actual switch is in the dash. If I recall it is quite hard to get to inside the dash. The switch itself is pretty cheap, the labor (if you go to a dealer) is what cost alot.

 

 

Easy to do.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...1&forum_id=103

 

Easy....huh?



Remove center console:
1. Use small screwdriver to pop out plastic plugs in the rear of the center compartment. 10MM nuts underneath - take out.
2. Pop off round plastic AH panel in front of console cushion - pull up from the back - two more 10MM bolts underneath.
3. Pop off the 2"x2" vent cover left of the key - pry from each side - and there is a #5 torx underneath. Remove ashtray - another #5 torx in there and next to the cig lighter.
4. Lift and scoot back the rearmost console (part with compartment) and move aside the HA (half-moon shaped) panel in front - the radio surround console should now pull back from around the radio and lift up from the rear - as you are doing so reach under the shifter and push up the shift boot so it pops out of the console piece.
5. Unplug the sensor wire left of the key and twist/remove the radio surround.

Drivers knee bolster:
- Pop off the trunk catch switch from the sides - #5 torx underneath. Undo the two bolts on the extreme bottom of the panel - 8MM I believe (majority of C5 trim fastners are these black 8MM) - this panel then snaps down from the bottom and pulls out toward the driver

Passenger area:
- Remove 4 8mm fastners from top glove box area - may be 5 I can't remember. One more 8mm fastner around near the door hinge in a recessed hole.

Back to center console:
- Remove two #5 Torx screws from pass side of radio/AC controls holding the dash down to the alum panel. I think there may be one or two above the radio as well.

Gage area
- Two more #5 torx screws - these are shorter than the rest

Final screws:
1. Pull straight towards the rear on the two A-pillar plastic trim pieces and they will pull right off. On top of the dash where the A-pillar plastic was touching, two more 8MM fastners.
2. Snap off the defrost grille, twist and pull out the two bulb-like sensors. Two more 8MM fastners under there.

Ready? Lift up on the front of the dash around the airbag and snap it loose - there is a tab on each side of the square airbag that will release when you pull out on the dash. the dash pulls out toward the rear about 2" then you can lift it off - as you are doing so follow the wires connecting the hazard switch down to the ignition area - you'll see another plug down there you can undo, then lift the entire dash pad out.

Not done yet! Take off 4 more fastners to release the AC ducts from the dash pad. Then three more fastners to release the middle AC vent from the dash pad.

Now you can pull of the middle vent and see the Hazard switch - push down on the tabs (top and bottom) and the switch pulls out rearward.

Put in your new switch and put it all back together!!

About 4 hours for me to do. Got to be the worst switch to get to on the entire car so buy a new one and enjoy your turn signals. I did not have any for two years, now I'm signaling away....

I saw your method posted and it does save alot of time but sounds risky. With my luck I would break something...

 

Do your fog lights and dash lights work? My multi switch started first with the turn signals failing and then the dash went dark and the tail lights died 2 days later.

 

Repeat - Easy.

You do not have to take out the dash pad. There is a way around that.

Remove center console
Remove Radio fascia
Remove radio
Remove Hazard switch cover
Reach under green hazard switch and push retaining tab up with a screwdriver from below
With a dull chisel, place it against the right side of the hazard switch
Strike the chisel smartly - the hazard switch will pop backwards
Fish it out through the radio opening
Disconnect old one and connect new one
Push new one back in from behind
Reassemble radio, center console and radio fascia

Total time about 40 minutes

 

Sweeet.. Good info! Thanks!