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I installed the passenger side header (Dynatech Supermaxx) on my 2001 coupe - auto tranny last night. The factory Chevrolet air tube that bolts to the manifold / header bolted flush to the manifold, but it does not properly line up w/ the header air tube flange. The factory air tube flange is about 1/4 inch away from the rear flange on the header and about 1/2 inch away from the front header flange where it is supposed to bolt to.
Anyone ever encounter this, and any suggestions? It appears to me like I will have to bend the factory air tube to get proper alignment, but I'd like some input before I do that.
I had to fight like hell with the passenger side. the drivers was easy cause you can remove and drill. I bent it till it got to where i could catch 2 bolts. Becareful while bending the tube cause its easy break if you bend too far.
I replaced the passenger side air tube to reflect the older style that matched my headers and STILL had to bend the air tube. in my case the coil pack was interferring with the air tube alignment.
Support well when you bend it. Also, make sure it aligns perfectly front to back and is parallel. This will minimize stresses into the piece welded in the header tube, which have been known to break. I think not setting up this tube properly has a lot to do with it.
Thanks for the info!! Although I don't want to bend it, it's reassuring to have you guys tell me that's the tried and true solution.
I looked at it again quickly this afternoon. I can get the bolt holes to line up, and the bottom of both flanges will touch each other w/ very little problem. Problem is that when the bolt holes are lined up and the bottom of the flanges touching, there is about a 3/8 inch gap between the tops of the two flanges.
I'll just take my time and see if I can slowly bend the factory air pipe enough to get it lined up.
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I wish someone would fabricate some 1/2" or 3/4" spacers out of metal for this problem.
I had a similar problem but for a different reason. When I installed my MSD coils, they were thicker and therefore the pass. side pipe wasn't properly lined up to bolt back on to the header A.I.R. fitting. I had to do a little judicious "forming" to get everything hooked up. A simple spacer would have eliminated this problem much easier.
I cut the air tube on the upper "straightest" portion, removed about 3" and installed a piece of flexible rubber tubing in its place to relieve the stress placed on the small connection tube on the header. It is difficult to get the original tube bent so that there is no stress on the header connection piece. It has worked great for almost 2 years now.
I'll go take a pic and post if anyone is interested.
Here is a pic of the air tube. I used a small tubing cutter to remove the piece and simply slid the tubing over. It has a nice tight seal without any clamps. Sorry do not remember the size of the tube. Just measure it and buy dsome good quality heat resistant tubing
THANKS for the picture!!! Beautiful job - For some unexplained reason, I kind of hate the idea of cutting the stock air tube to do this, but when I rationally think about it, I REALLY HATE the idea that too much pressure on the header air tube could cause the header air tube to break off of the header.