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Valve Float - I need spring recommendations and R&R Help

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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 03:52 PM
  #21  
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Did the car 'feel' much different/faster after you got rid of the valve float? I really did not feel it laying over on the street. Had it not been for the dyno I would have not even known I had a problem.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 05:18 PM
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I would definitely go with the duals-they are actually cheaper than the 918s if you go with Ti retainers plus you get the added benefit of a dual spring incase of failure. The spring pressure by no means it too much-the lifters can handle it easily. Just ask LG or Tony Mamo and they will tell you that more spring pressure is better than less as it will follow the cam better. I think Texas Speed has the PRC duals for $259 right now. Don't forget the weight savings you get with a Ti retainer as well-that weight is right over the nose-it doesn't sound like like much but can easily allow your engine to rev another 500 rpm easily-less weight equals a faster revving engine.
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Old Jan 17, 2006 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Did the car 'feel' much different/faster after you got rid of the valve float? I really did not feel it laying over on the street. Had it not been for the dyno I would have not even known I had a problem.
the car feels pretty much the same.. my 1st and 2nd gears went fine to redline, 3rd and 4th is where i felt the stumble on the street at high RPMs. i only drove the car to the dyno and back home.. didnt really have chance to drive it since. i hope it all works out for you
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Old Jan 18, 2006 | 01:28 AM
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Yes indeed my dyno sheet looked like that also at 43,000. Installed Comp. 918 springs & Yella Terrs shaft mounted 1.8 roller rocker "since it's apart". . No regrets, smooth line to 6,000 rpm & still pulling. While your at it don't forget to upgrade to hardened push rods........
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 10:05 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Follow the service manual on removing and re-tightening the rockers. It is easy, but most don't know how to do it properly.
How do some guys not do it properly? I looked at the service manual and it was very basic. remove rockers, pedistals and springs, replace springs, pedistals and rockers. Had to look in the torque specs section to see that they get torqued to 22 foot #'s.

I got the Tims compressor tool and air tool for $50 for the pair and a set of 918's and new seals. Could have probably gotten away with yellow LS6 springs but didn't want to have to do this again. I also went back and forth about duals and Ti retainers but decided that I didn't need to spin my 88k mile motor to 6500 anyway. I have the passenger side done. It's a little time consuming. Lots of steps for each spring/cylinder. Not rocket science by any means though.

Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Jan 25, 2006 at 10:08 AM.
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Old Jan 25, 2006 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
How do some guys not do it properly? I looked at the service manual and it was very basic. remove rockers, pedistals and springs, replace springs, pedistals and rockers. Had to look in the torque specs section to see that they get torqued to 22 foot #'s.

I got the Tims compressor tool and air tool for $50 for the pair and a set of 918's and new seals. Could have probably gotten away with yellow LS6 springs but didn't want to have to do this again. I also went back and forth about duals and Ti retainers but decided that I didn't need to spin my 88k mile motor to 6500 anyway. I have the passenger side done. It's a little time consuming. Lots of steps for each spring/cylinder. Not rocket science by any means though.
keep me us posted to see if the springs solved your problem too. i'm curious
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 09:43 AM
  #27  
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Well, I just got everything back together last night. I don't need to go back to the dyno to know that the springs solved the problem. Before I couldn't really tell that it was laying over. It was faster than stock but it certainly did not feel ilke a 500 RWHP car. Now it feels like it did with the 150 shot but better. It pulls hard to redline and really puts you in your seat. Huge difference.

The clutch absolutely hates it. It's a Z06 clutch I put in about a year ago because when I put the 150 shot on the stock clutch got a bad case of 'pedal to the floor' syndrome. The Z06 clutch seemed to handle the nitrous fine but now it goes to the floor worse than the stock one did. It actually stayed on the floor last night. So I won't be taking it to the track anytime soon.

I highly recommend the Tim's compressor tool and air tool which can be found on the Tools of the Trade forum on LS1Tech. Both did their job flawlessly and cost me $50 together.

Last edited by 5 Liter Eater; Jan 30, 2006 at 01:15 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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Glad the springs fixed your problem. Have fun.

How are you doing comparing the tunes?
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 04:22 PM
  #29  
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There are quite a few differences. I"m not sure how many of them I will try out. The only real thing I'd like to tune out is the bucking I get at little to no throttle. Your tune has some throttle cracker changes that I may try. With HPT 2.0 it's super easy to look at what was changed in your tune as well as how those changes differ from my tune.
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Old Jan 27, 2006 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 5 Liter Eater
Well, I just got everything back together last night. I don't need to go back to the dyno to know that the springs solved the problem. Before I couldn't really tell that it was laying over. It was faster than stock but it certainly did not feel ilke a 500 RWHP car. Now it feels like it did with the 150 shot but better. It pulls hard to redline and really puts you in your seat. Huge difference.
glad it worked out for you
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