Question on lowering and alignment
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,727
Likes: 7
From: Twilight zone
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Question on lowering and alignment
I had my car lowered about 3/4 "maybe 3 years ago or so.
At that time, I had it aligned.
( This was the same day at Corvette Mike's .They never stated anything about settling. At that time I never knew this forum existed,so no knowledge here about this issue.Besides I can't really understand how, if you haven't "changed" the springs, there can be any settling issues anyway as they were already under load previously.
I know, I have heard about it here,but, it doesn't make sense to me.......maybe someone can enlighten me on this as well)
Anyway, I have had perfect wear since. What I really wanna do is lower the front another 1/4 ".there is just too much space there in the wheel well. I just gotta cut the front bushings when I change the spring!
I ask because I was standing by and watching, during the original alignment when they lowered it 3/4",and there was NO adjustment to the "rears"...they were within specs at that time
I know I should just to be sure,but is there anyone who thinks this may not affect it,since there WAS an adjustment made at the 3/4" drop in the "front"?
Whatcha guys think??
P.S. sorry for the long posts, I just wanna give all the info first
At that time, I had it aligned.
( This was the same day at Corvette Mike's .They never stated anything about settling. At that time I never knew this forum existed,so no knowledge here about this issue.Besides I can't really understand how, if you haven't "changed" the springs, there can be any settling issues anyway as they were already under load previously.
I know, I have heard about it here,but, it doesn't make sense to me.......maybe someone can enlighten me on this as well)
Anyway, I have had perfect wear since. What I really wanna do is lower the front another 1/4 ".there is just too much space there in the wheel well. I just gotta cut the front bushings when I change the spring!
I ask because I was standing by and watching, during the original alignment when they lowered it 3/4",and there was NO adjustment to the "rears"...they were within specs at that time
I know I should just to be sure,but is there anyone who thinks this may not affect it,since there WAS an adjustment made at the 3/4" drop in the "front"?
Whatcha guys think??
P.S. sorry for the long posts, I just wanna give all the info first
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
Personally, I don't buy much into the settling thing either. When I change my ride height, I bounce up and down on my car a few times, roll it around in the garage, then align it. I check it later at the track and it is the same.
I know the front alignment changes significantly when you lower it. Camber goes more negative and toe goes inwards. I don't think the changes on the rear are as significant and it doesn't surprise me that it was in spec.
All that said, alignment can change, especially with our concentric bolts which shift often. Aligments are relatively inexpensive, tires are not. No harm in getting an alignment.
One final thought on alignments. The specs have wide tolerances. Z06 front camber, for example, is -0.7 +/- 0.5, meaning anything from -0.2 to -1.2 is "in" spec. When you get an alignment, be specific as to what you want, e.g. ask for -0.7. A good aligment shop should be able to hit that within a tenth or so.
I know the front alignment changes significantly when you lower it. Camber goes more negative and toe goes inwards. I don't think the changes on the rear are as significant and it doesn't surprise me that it was in spec.
All that said, alignment can change, especially with our concentric bolts which shift often. Aligments are relatively inexpensive, tires are not. No harm in getting an alignment.
One final thought on alignments. The specs have wide tolerances. Z06 front camber, for example, is -0.7 +/- 0.5, meaning anything from -0.2 to -1.2 is "in" spec. When you get an alignment, be specific as to what you want, e.g. ask for -0.7. A good aligment shop should be able to hit that within a tenth or so.
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Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 7,727
Likes: 7
From: Twilight zone
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by Subdriver
One final thought on alignments. The specs have wide tolerances. Z06 front camber, for example, is -0.7 +/- 0.5, meaning anything from -0.2 to -1.2 is "in" spec. When you get an alignment, be specific as to what you want, e.g. ask for -0.7. A good aligment shop should be able to hit that within a tenth or so.
This is a very good point! So, since I don't track my car,c-5 specs are fine for me.So,where can I find those specs so I can be armed with the right info to ask for?
I guess if I am gonna pay for it,,,I should get it perfect,huh?
Especially since I will bet the change will be very minimal
As far as the concentric bolts shifting...yes,I am sure that's true.
But, I would be willing to bet that is much more prevelant on guys "tracking" their cars than guys like me that only drive occasionally spirited
Premium Supporting Vendor
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 5,364
Likes: 38
From: King George VA
Originally Posted by flynbya2
This is a very good point! So, since I don't track my car,c-5 specs are fine for me.So,where can I find those specs so I can be armed with the right info to ask for?
I guess if I am gonna pay for it,,,I should get it perfect,huh?
Especially since I will bet the change will be very minimal
As far as the concentric bolts shifting...yes,I am sure that's true.
But, I would be willing to bet that is much more prevelant on guys "tracking" their cars than guys like me that only drive occasionally spirited
Pretty sure these are the C5 specs:
C5 Specs:
Front Individual Toe: +0.04 degree +/- 0.10 degree
Front Sum Toe: +0.08 degree +/- 0.20 degree
Front Individual Caster: +7.4 degree +/- 0.50 degree
Front Cross Caster: within +/- 0.50 degree
Front Individual Camber: -0.20 degree +/-0.50 degree
Front Cross Camber: within +/-0.50 degree
Rear Individual Toe: -0.01 degree +/- 0.10 degree
Rear Sum Toe: -0.02 degree +/- 0.20 degree
Rear Individual Camber: -0.18 degree +/- 0.50 degree
Rear Cross Camber: within +/- 0.50 degree
And while I agree with you that track guys are more likely to move the concentric bolts, I've gained an appreciation for how easy it is to move them. I feel one good smack on the tire from a pothole or something of the equivalent and it isn't unreasonable to think some of you daily driver's may have moved one...
Pro
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 503
Likes: 1
From: Greensboro NC
I lowered my vette 5 turns on each corner, drove it about 1000 miles and took it in for alignment car had 2200 miles on it. A 25ish kid was next in line - Black Chev in GSO has 2 or 3 alignment machines - turns out he's a serious car tweaker. He spent almost an hour - allowed me to watch while he was explaining the procedure - I was standing outside of the bay door. The front camber & toe-in were out just as mentioned in another post. But one of the rear wheels was way out . He thought some of it was the lowering but most of it was a bad alignment from the factory. So maybe an alignment should be added to the predelivery check list. HA!
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