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Does anyone have a link to step by step instructions to doing a head swap on a C5? I have swapped a lot heads (and engines) over the years, but what I'm looking for are the "tricks" in pulling them on the C5. Issues like the infamous power steering bolt removal, and the brackets and lines on the back of the heads, etc. After guys have removed a few sets, they tend to find "shortcuts" to most jobs
LS1howto has a cam and head swap, but there are obviously a few extra steps included in the write up, but it's the best I've found so far.
ls1howto.com is pretty detailed. I chose to remove the intake and accesories, coils, valve covers, heads first before lifting the car. After I removed these parts I then lifted the car and removed all the accessories in the front of the engine.
Last edited by kendo347; Jan 21, 2006 at 09:25 AM.
ls1howto.com is pretty detailed. I chose to remove the intake and accesories, coils, valve covers, heads first before lifting the car. After I removed these parts I then lifted the car and removed all the accessories in the front of the engine.
What I have been doing is editing the LS1howto procedure to eliminate the steps required for the cam and insert the step I want to do in addition. This allows you to make a specific procedure, and since I am running Crane rockers I need to move the guide plates and studs as well to the new heads. I did the same for my cam installation.
ls1howto.com is pretty detailed. I chose to remove the intake and accesories, coils, valve covers, heads first before lifting the car. After I removed these parts I then lifted the car and removed all the accessories in the front of the engine.
ls1howto.com is pretty detailed. I chose to remove the intake and accesories, coils, valve covers, heads first before lifting the car. After I removed these parts I then lifted the car and removed all the accessories in the front of the engine.
K347
What are you removing from under the car. I was under the impression that the power steering pump just had to be "loosen and pulled forward" enough to remove the head.
VN
I will proably wind up doing what you suggested and removing the water pump to get to the PS bolts, but I sure would like to avoid it if I can.
How are you coming with your heads? I've almost finished with my 2nd one and will be getting them put back together soon. Not sure whether or not to put the shims put back with the springs. I feel like they used them to take care of the 625 lift they mentioned.
I'm getting ready to do a head/cam swap in my 98 vert. Going to a bigger cam than I already have, putting on a 90/90 combo and changing the stock heads. The write up on ls1howto.com is excellent but I'm having a problem printing it. I selected the printable version, but when it prints it only prints the LS1HOWTO.COM header and the rest of the page is blank. Yes, I have checked my printer cartridges and they are fine. Anyone else experience this? Suggestions? Thanks.
Actually, the reason I am pulling the water pump is I am going to put a tube in the front of the block and pump out the block once the pump is off. Hopefully, this will keep the coolant from going into the head bolt holes and the cylinders. At least that's my theory
I am waiting on some very fine lapping compound and my Comp 918's. I am switching springs to get a more favorable seat and over the nose pressure for the rocker setup I run.
As for the shims, I came up with these values (computed) the way they were installed:
Seat - Intake: 136.5
Seat - Exhaust: 134.6
Based on my lift of 0.583"
Open - Intake: 360.4
Open - Exhaust: 358.5
It seems that they balanced them out really well. Depending on the cam you are running, you could reduce the seat pressure if you wanted to and provide a little more coil clearance.
I have also seen some guys buying the heads and then changing to the dual springs, I may PM a couple of them and see if they want to sell the original Dart springs. These are very good/expensive springs if you read up on them.