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Anyone tried this? I like the way my stock shifter functions ( no notchiness or excesive effort) but its just so long so why not cut out 1/2" to 1" out of the shaft re-weld and reinstall. Ive got all of the resources to do this but never seen any posts on it. Let me know what you think.
Thanks. Bob
You don't have to cut the shaft in the middle to shorten it.
I cut almost 1-inch off the top, and extended the threads down to where the shaft changes diameter.
I put on an aftermarket shift **** from Hurst, but you should also be able to make the stock **** work.
I too cut about an inch off the shifter....didn't even extend the threads and it really made a difference.
. I just hacked an inch off the top and screwed the **** back on. You can even do it with the shifter installed in the car. Lay down some rags and stuff to catch the metal dust/shavings .
. I just hacked an inch off the top and screwed the **** back on. You can even do it with the shifter installed in the car. Lay down some rags and stuff to catch the metal dust/shavings .
That's exactly how I did mine. Built a "tent" to catch all the shavings and used a Dremel tool to do the cutting. Total: 30 minutes
Anyone tried this? I like the way my stock shifter functions ( no notchiness or excesive effort) but its just so long so why not cut out 1/2" to 1" out of the shaft re-weld and reinstall. Ive got all of the resources to do this but never seen any posts on it. Let me know what you think.
Thanks. Bob
Bob:
I tried both a Hurst and a BPP shifter and ended up with a shortened stock shifter. Look in the parts for sale section for a Chameleon shift **** - there are a couple of pics of my shortened shifter in that thread. It looks better and because you lose a little leverage, makes the effort a little more than stock which I rather like. I recently changed my **** (for the fourth time) to a C6 style and am actually happy with this combination. Everyone has different taste and you need to experiment and see what is best for you...
Does the shift **** just unscrew? I thought there was some crazy pin inside it? I was going to try to remove the **** when I pulled i out to change the rear end, but I couldn't get that pin out, so I pulled the entire assembly.
This is very interesting....I have spent a TON of $$$$$ on mods recently and with a 30K mile car the shifter is still nice and tight. After the shifter is shortened, does it "feel" more like a short throw shifter and does anyone recommend this for a short term mod before my money tree grows back???? Thanks
I cut off 1" from mine - awesome result. Couple suggestions:
I also ordered a new shift boot - mine was old anyway - you will need to cut off about 3/4 from the top of the stock boots to get them to fit over the thicker part of the shift **** - my **** is similar to picture above but about 1/8 lower - none of the 'thin' part of the shifter is visible.
After cutting the 1" off the shifter and screwing on the **** again, I saw that the **** would not screw all the way down - it needs about 1 1/4 of thread and there was only about 1/2 to 3/4 left on the shifter - so in order for the steel pin to do its duty and the shaft to be brought up to the top of the plastic, I had the threads brought down another inch by a machine shop. - if you do not do this, there will be a bit of force applied to the top of the plastic shift **** where there is no metal shaft underneath - could lead to sloppy feel at the least.
I read the post on making a 'tent' and catching the shavings - if you pop the boot off you can take off the shifter (loosen the screws on the center console) it literally takes about 5 minutes to take the shifter out and then you can have it threaded properly, etc.
Anyway, awesome difference, especially for $0 invested.
Does the shift **** just unscrew? I thought there was some crazy pin inside it? I was going to try to remove the **** when I pulled i out to change the rear end, but I couldn't get that pin out, so I pulled the entire assembly.
Hold the pin with vice grips - another pair of vice grips on those - then tap upward gently - about 10 taps and mine was off.
I dont plan on putting the pin back in. I dont see much use for it anyway, and I have my shift **** angled towards me.
Can I take an inch off if I am not going to use the pin? & Should I use a dremel or just use a hack saw and take my time? I was planning on doing it with the shifter still in the car.
IIRC, the keypin keeps the OEM C5 **** from wanting to twist. If you cinch it down tight, the shaft will come through the top of the plastic as it is very thin (this is also why so many get vibration when switching to an aftermarket shifter and trying to keep the stock **** - not much there to provide damping). Depends on what you can get away with. I had actually lengthened the slot as well as the threads so that I could reuse the key and get the **** to fit as close to stock after I shortened everything...
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