Any comments/suggestions on this mod? Is it worth doing? For HPDE track events, do you need an oil cooler with this mod? I think Z06's already have an oil cooler and the new Z06's have an accusump from the factory. If someone has done this mod and could write up some brief instructions, part numbers and pics thread that would be so very cool.
Thanks
John

 

I run a 3qt Moroso Accu-sump. Located in my left front fender

also oil cooler and trans cooler.

Used to pre-lub the block before starting and keep the oil pressure up on those high speed sweepers where the oil may slosh to the opposite side of the block. Prevent oil starvation.


Sorry for the big pic.



The new Z06 has a DRY sump not an accu-sump. Both preform the same funtion. The dry sump stores the oil so no real oil pan is needed and the engine can sit lower in the car.

 

I had ECS install a 3-quart oil accusump in addition to an LPE oil cooler, Canton oil thermostat and T1 trans cooler to increase the level of protection while running in HPDE /TT events. Canton Racing Products provides a complete LS1/6 kit that includes all the parts, hoses and fittings necessary to complete this task. Check out this link: http://www.accusump.com/ My setup is similar to AU N EGL

 

Nice setup! Where are you getting the pressurized oil?
I looked at Jerry Onks race car and he had it plumbed to
the side of the block right behind the alternator.

Thanks, Russ

 

The accu-sump holds 3 qts and the lines and cooler hold about 1 1/2 qts so 10 1/2qt total.

I have a manual switchs for the accu-sump and trans cooler.

The accu-sump stores the oil under a bit of pressure and has an electical pump as well.

When I get into the car I turn the ignition to accessory, wait for the gages to stablize, flip on the accu-sump switch and watch the oil pressure in the block go up to about 40 psi. This pre-lubes the block. after about 30 sec I start the car.

This keeps the oil pressure even - 40-50 psi most of the time and keeps the oil pumping into the block

block to oil cooler to accusump back to block.

At the end of each session when I am driving around the paddock I just rev the engine a little to get the Oil pressure up to 50 PSI or so for a few seconds, then switch OFF the accu-sump. If I dont then the oil drains into the block. Too much oil.

This is partially what a manual switch is needed not a pressure valve.

when my door is open I can look into the fender and see the accu-sump. On top is a pressure gage.

An oil cooler and trans cooler are a must for track days, an accu-sump is great but not needed. adding an extra qt of will will do it most of the time.

Mine is the T1 set up.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm just starting to dig into this a bit to understand the advantages vs the cost. I think all the serious track guys are running a setup like yours.
John

 

Come over to: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zeroforum?id=23

We discuss this a LOT over in the Roadrace forum!

Mike

 

Are you sure about the Accusump having an electric pump? Mine uses only engine oil pressure retained by the unit's check valve for pre-oiling.

 

Most only have a check valve. Mine has a small electic pump along with the check valve in the upper part of the unit.

 

Same here. The electric pump coupled with the check valve is a good reliable setup; however, I've heard nothing good regarding the use of the Electric Pressure Control (E.P.C.) valve.

See: http://www.accusump.com/acc_products/acc_valves.html

Tom, who did your install and did you ever have any oil leaking issues (fittings and hoses)?

 

Below is a photo of my install. My left front fender space was already taken so I used the rear of the front impact bar. It is a tight fit and will not work with a factory airbox. I had to shorten the halltech air bridge about 1.75" to make it sit back down on the radiator support. I also like this position because I'm using a internal oil cooler and plumbing was very easy.

I don't like the idea of supplying the Accusump with the oil port on the side of the block under the alternator. I have two reasons I don't like this location. Reason 1) This is not filtered oil. While not a huge reason these things are Teflon coated inside so the internal piston floats easily and I'm sure any little grit is going to grind right into that pretty quickly. Reason 2) This is not filtered oil (I know same as reason 1 but not quite). By supplying the Accusump from this port your very close the oil pump, which is good for filling the Accusump. But when the oil pressure drops and the Accusump is needed, and the Accusump becomes the oiling source and starts supplying oil, there is no way to have a check valve to keep the oil from going back towards the oil pump and valuable oil may be lost back through the oil pump. Also if you are sourcing the oil from this point you have to push the oil through the filter. The Accusump has very limited about of oil and pressure, as the oil starts out the pressure starts down. If your running an oil cooler, then not only is the filter in the way, you have to push your limited amount of oil through the oil cooler as well causing even more loss in pressure. I supply my Accusump in the return line from the oil cooler, after the filter and after the cooler. I use the Canton check valve to prevent any oil lost back towards the oil pump, all oil goes straight into the back of the block and into the oil galleries.


I really like the Canton EPC valve they sell for the Accusump. The electronic valve (if installed properly) when off acts like a check valve allowing oil into the Accusump but not out. So when you get in the car you have say 50psi in the Accusump, you turn on the key which sends power to the Accusump, the engine pressure is below 25psi (it's zero since it's not running) so the pressure switch sends power to the electronic valve and it opens preboiling the engine. As soon as you start the engine the oil pressure climbs above 25psi the pressure switch closes the electronic valve. As you rev up the engine and start to pull out the oil pressure say climbs to 40psi, the oil will blow through the electronic valve and fill the Accusump to 40psi even though the electronic valve is off. You stop and the car comes to an idle at say 30psi, the Accusump still has 40 psi because the electronic valve is still closed. Now you pull out and run it up in fist and the oil pressure climbs to 60psi, the oil will pass through the electric valve again bringing the pressure up to 60psi in the Accusump. Now as long as the engine oil pressure never drops below 25psi the Accusump pressure stays at 60psi. When your done driving, you park the car and say the engine is idling at 30psi, you still have 60psi in your Accusump, you simply turn off the key and you still have 60psi in your sump waiting for your next startup preboiling. No need to have any manual switches to remember to throw! The only thing I don't like about the EPC setup is when you first turn on the system and the preboiling starts the Accusump will bring the pressure up to 25psi and the pressure switch will turn off the electronic valve. This causes the valve to click on and off and hold the pressure at 25 psi. What I'm going to build is a timer that will hold the valve open for a few seconds once activated. Another thing that could be added to the timer is RPM activation, any time the engine is over say 4000RPM kick on the valve, other wise leave it off. This should work great at startup and on the track, and allow for the same automatic shut off and pre lube.

 

Pheonix Performance. T1 set up. no leaks what so ever in 2 years of use.

When I was looking for someone to do the install here in the Raleigh area I found two guys who said, "Sure. We can do it. We can figure it out."

FIGURE IT OUT????? Not on my car you dont.