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Blah, blah, blah. Anyone ever dyno to check these results? I did. I have a twin cone intake, factory air bridge, smooth intake coupler, and a ported factory throttle body. My car has long tube headers, high flow cats, and B & B Bullets. I recently had my car dyno tuned at ECS after installing cam, and underdrive pulley. We did three pulls, each time, Doug would lean the car out, we gained about 5 HP. On the last pull, Doug wanted to try a larger aftermarket air bridge that he had to see what it would do. Guess what it did? Nothing. Same results. We still added about 5 HP on the last pull. We thought it was maybe my twin cone intake that was holding it back, so we removed it altogether, and still had the larger air bridge on and guess what? We had about 1/2 HP less than with the intake on. Go figure. I think a lot of this is hype. The people at ECS are straight shooters.
BTW, it was about 35 degrees out, the dyno is outside, the wind was blowing at about 30 MPH, and Doug had a fan blowing on the car as well, with the hood open.
Last edited by Rhode Warrior; Jan 29, 2006 at 07:35 AM.
Unless you increase the cubes or much higher rpm's, the stock airbridge will flow all the air you need. It is not the volume of air going thru the airbridge but the quality and speed of air going thru the MAF that counts. The stock air bridge and couple also helps keep the engine quieter. Many ahve changed these to big hog and smooth couple which makes for louder intake but not hp. When GM went to the LS2 and larger TB and MAF, they also had a PCM with more memory and much faster speed to make the compensations to the engine management system.
I can't tell from the descriptions or pix - does the Honker require cutting a hole in the shroud?
Installation does require you to cut a hole in the shroud. To help you locate the hole in the proper location, the Honker Kit comes with a template. The Kit even includes the properly-sized drill bit and rivets for attaching the filter base to the shroud. The shroud costs about $50-60 from GM, if you ever need to replace it to revert to stock.
Here's a page from the Callaway website that contains all of the Instruction Sheets. Just click on the Honker Sheet for your specific application: Callaway Instruction Sheets
Regarding the question about California usage, the C5 Honker is legal for sale and use in all 50 states, except for 2002-2004 Z06 applications. Callaway hasn't applied for an CARB E.O. for these Z06 applications as yet. All C5 and C6 Honkers have provisions for all related OEM emission control devices.
Unless you increase the cubes or much higher rpm's, the stock airbridge will flow all the air you need. It is not the volume of air going thru the airbridge but the quality and speed of air going thru the MAF that counts. The stock air bridge and couple also helps keep the engine quieter. Many ahve changed these to big hog and smooth couple which makes for louder intake but not hp. When GM went to the LS2 and larger TB and MAF, they also had a PCM with more memory and much faster speed to make the compensations to the engine management system.
Gordy, with all due respect, Callaway engineers found that installing aftermarket air cleaner systems do indeed generate more horsepower. The increase was significantly measurable in our engine and chassis dynos as well as in real world dragstrip testing. We found increases on completely stock engines, with still more of an improvement on modified engines. For example, on a completely stock LS1 engine, bolting on the Honker added 16 bhp (SAE corrected) on our dyno. We also found that some aftermarket intake systems provided more power than others, depending on their design approach. An August 2005 Vette Magazine article reported that MTI in Georgia bolted a Honker onto a 2000 C5 and made 19.9 rwhp more than another popular aftermarket system. With tuning, they were able to produce another 14 hp.
In the C5 system, Callaway engineers completely eliminated the "air bridge" in order to reduce turbulence and airflow restriction to the engine. It was a key element to maximize performance.
I guess the only "downside" (other than the price!) is the fact that I'd have to get rid of the nice looking CF airbridge I have on the car now.....It looks much nicer than the black pastic piece with the Honker.
Gordy, with all due respect, Callaway engineers found that installing aftermarket air cleaner systems do indeed generate more horsepower. The increase was significantly measurable in our engine and chassis dynos as well as in real world dragstrip testing. We found increases on completely stock engines, with still more of an improvement on modified engines. For example, on a completely stock LS1 engine, bolting on the Honker added 16 bhp (SAE corrected) on our dyno. We also found that some aftermarket intake systems provided more power than others, depending on their design approach. An August 2005 Vette Magazine article reported that MTI in Georgia bolted a Honker onto a 2000 C5 and made 19.9 rwhp more than another popular aftermarket system. With tuning, they were able to produce another 14 hp.
In the C5 system, Callaway engineers completely eliminated the "air bridge" in order to reduce turbulence and airflow restriction to the engine. It was a key element to maximize performance.
He didn't question the merit of an aftermarket exhaust system. He only stated that the stock air bridge was fine for most engines. I agree, the dyno does not lie.
Does this zip tie mod mean going lidless? Your TB is still only so big and without a ram air affect, which would probably require some tunning to dial everything in, will only let so much air in! As long as you are not going smaller than the size of your throttle body anywhere in front of it, anything larger is basicly useless except for your filter element.
ding ding ding, winner. After the stock air box and filter the TB is the limiting factor, that is why replacing things like the MAF and air bridge are useless unless you are upgrading the throttle body.
ding ding ding, winner. After the stock air box and filter the TB is the limiting factor, that is why replacing things like the MAF and air bridge are useless unless you are upgrading the throttle body.
I've always read that upgrading throttle bodies is useless, and only causes problems. At least that was on the F-bodies (2001 Trans Am), i'm not sure about he corvettes, all though I would imagine it being the same, same motor and all...
I've always read that upgrading throttle bodies is useless, and only causes problems. At least that was on the F-bodies (2001 Trans Am), i'm not sure about he corvettes, all though I would imagine it being the same, same motor and all...
I have not done it so I can not speak to that. Many people on hear have reported gains in HP and throttle response with a ported and polished TB. Personally for a stock LS1 the only thing I would upgrade on the intake is the stock air box to something that flows better and can get ambient air, like a vararam.
How about the Zip-Tie Mod for the cost of 4 zip ties, good for anywhere from 8-18rwhp from what i've heard, and it costs less than $1, jus tmake sure you get a hood seal, or you'll be dumping water onto the filter everytime you wash the car, or drive it in a heavy downpour. I've had the Zip-Tie Mod done on mine for about a month now with no problems at all, and a noticably quicker throttle response through the RPM range. I'd say it's WELL worth it, and saves you $300-700 for something else
Just did it this weekend. Added K&N Filter, $59.00. But, I added four 3 inch holes in the plastic fan/radiator cover, to take advantage of the already forced air coming into that area. I put the holes on the sides of the filter element, so there is no direct flow into filter, but you do get cool air. This should prevent rain from coming in, since it does have to do a 180. THe large expansion to small holes to large expansion should do as well as anything. Smooth, cooler air is the key. SMOOTH, non-turbulant air. Someone makes an expansion coupler that is smooth and does not have the ridges as in stock setup, right behind the mass flow unit. Would love to find one.
Just did it this weekend. Added K&N Filter, $59.00. But, I added four 3 inch holes in the plastic fan/radiator cover, to take advantage of the already forced air coming into that area. I put the holes on the sides of the filter element, so there is no direct flow into filter, but you do get cool air. This should prevent rain from coming in, since it does have to do a 180. THe large expansion to small holes to large expansion should do as well as anything. Smooth, cooler air is the key. SMOOTH, non-turbulant air. Someone makes an expansion coupler that is smooth and does not have the ridges as in stock setup, right behind the mass flow unit. Would love to find one.
tt
I bought a smooth air coupler at the drag strip off another driver. Did nothing as far as I could tell.
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