I used to own an '87 Buick Regal T-Type (AKA Grand National) and I had put on a pcv bypass kit, which basicly capped off the inlet to the intake. This was done to eliminate the induction of hot air into the intake, not for the oil issue. The oil filler cap was a breather. Under hard acceleration the oil would come out of the dip stick tube and hit my exhaust. I could smell it and see a small puff of smoke. I am sure this was due to the lack of vacume in the valve covers and over abundance of pressure.

 

I am personally going to fabricate my own.

There are lots of good ideas on ebay....

Should be easy... $160 is nuts.

 

Good Questions....


DH

 

$160 is quite a Vette Tax and I glad I got mine from a Forum member for less than half of the current price and I then thought I was paying to much for it

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-C...QQcmdZViewItem

What about that? Yall think that would work?

 

i dont know but I just purchased my AMW setup and had it installed by ECS. You get what you pay for so i think ill sleep good at night knowing what I have.

 

A can is a can IMHO. Or as my car dealer says there is an a$$ for every seat.

 

I purchased on of those $7.88 Ebay cans. The 2 fittings are about 1/2 an inch apart and one goes down in the can a tiny bit further than the other. On the inside of the can there is no type of wall to seperate. Oil will go in and get sucked right back out into the intake. I probably could devise some way to make it work properly, but said F--k it and did the AMW. It's an awsome piece, but pricey! My Vett is worth it!!

 

All you had to do was install some steel wool, anyrhing to catch the oil and still let it breath works.

I'm not saying my Vette isn't worth it, I'm just not one to spend extra when I don't have to, I could buy a half a tank of gas with the left over money..

 

Yes, that will work fine..

 

Yep, that will work. And, the nice thing about that can is the clear tube on the outside. Let's you know how much oil is in the can so you know when to empty it.

It doesn't matter if one tube is next to the other or not. Oil will NOT get sucked back up out of the can unless the oil reaches as high as the output tube. Remember, the oil is contained within the air that goes into the can. There is no need for a separating wall, because that's not how the oil is extracted from the crankcase vapors. The oil sticks to whatever the vapor comes into contact with. If there's no wicking material, such as steel wool, or some kind of element, then the air will move in a swirling motion in the can, and the oil will cling to the walls of the can, then drip down to the bottom.

The nice thing about this can's design, from what I can see, is that the tubes are in sticking down into the can via the top of the can, not near the walls, which makes it EXTREMELY difficult for the captured oil to even get into the output tube.

If you don't believe me, look inside the AMW can. It has undercut ridges on the inside walls of the can to try to help prevent the oil from creeping up the sides of the can and out through the output tube, which in AMW's case, is actually on the side of the can.

If the E-Bay can linked to above has no wicking material in it, and you're concerned about that, you can easily just place a thin layer of steel wool, or one of those metal scrubbing things some people use to scrub pots with, on the bottom of the can.

Something else worth mentioning is that an oil catch can will be more efficient if its temperature is COOLER than the vapor that runs through it. As the air cools, the oil has a better chance of condensing (for lack of a better word) onto the material that air comes into contact with. So, mounting a can to the engine itself is not as good as mounting it away from the engine.

When I had my AMW can installed, I installed it in the battery compartment for this very reason. I just drilled two small holes in the battery compartment separating wall and attached the can there, rather than mounting in the engine compartment. This helps the process by keeping the can cooler than the vapor the can is designed to filter. Here's a couple of pics of my AMW can when I was using one:


Now, here's another pic of the air compressor filter I'm now using instead of the AMW can. Note that this pic shows how I tested the efficiency of the filter. The clear hoses were only used to see how much oil was getting trapped in the filter, and how much oil, if any, was getting by. I actually swapped the AMW can into the setup too, just to see which was more efficient. Guess what? The air compressor filter was more efficient when installed in the reverse-flow position, althought the AMW can did work well, too... just not AS well.

I am now using the filter without the clear hoses, and with a ball valve attached to the bottom of the filter for easy draining. I ran a bead of RV silicone inside the filter about 1.5" from the top to help prevent oil from creeping back up the sides. I don't think I needed it, but I did it anyway because... well... because I could!

 

I agree with you and I disagree with you. I feel that with those 2 inlets so close, and all the suction present, some oil CAN get sucked back out of the can, even with steel wool or some sort of element. We are talking about tiny amounts of oil that weigh practicaly nothing. With all that vacume, I think there would be a good chance. On the other hand, a cooler catch can means cooler oil in it, and cooler oil is thicker and wont travel as easily. So I relocated my can on the battery housing wall also, but on the out side in the engine compartment. I did'nt feel comfortable with it near the battery and fuse box and having to run all the extra hose.