Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump install questions???
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,106
Likes: 0
From: Norwich NY
Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump install questions???
Gentlemen,
I need some info/suggestions on the install of a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump on an 03' Z06 with a mild cam, headers, and A&A Procharger. Did a search and found and old thread but the photos were gone.
It looks pretty straight forward but figured if someone did it before and may have some insight/hindsight would speed the process. (and hopefully eliminate some of my errors)
The questions I have are as follows:
Where to mount the box?
Where to mount the switch/dial?
Where to tap the red/hot wire into?
A good initial setting (0-50) for the control? I would imagine then
that some dyno tuning would be in order to dial-in the correct AFR.
Anything else I should know to keep me out of trouble?
Thanks in advance for the assist!
I need some info/suggestions on the install of a Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump on an 03' Z06 with a mild cam, headers, and A&A Procharger. Did a search and found and old thread but the photos were gone.
It looks pretty straight forward but figured if someone did it before and may have some insight/hindsight would speed the process. (and hopefully eliminate some of my errors)
The questions I have are as follows:
Where to mount the box?
Where to mount the switch/dial?
Where to tap the red/hot wire into?
A good initial setting (0-50) for the control? I would imagine then
that some dyno tuning would be in order to dial-in the correct AFR.
Anything else I should know to keep me out of trouble?
Thanks in advance for the assist!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 181
From: NE OH
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 26,794
Likes: 614
From: Elmhurst, IL (West Suburb of Chicago) & Home of MEGA Horsepower
St. Jude Donor '06
OK, here is the stupid question of the week......although i have a good educated guess can somebody please tell me exactly what a boost a pump is in LAYMEN'S TERMS!!!!!! 
Racer
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 353
Likes: 11
From: long beach ca
Originally Posted by BLOWN ECS Z06
OK, here is the stupid question of the week......although i have a good educated guess can somebody please tell me exactly what a boost a pump is in LAYMEN'S TERMS!!!!!!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
One more question if you please...
Where have you mounted (tied in) the boost/vacuum switch? Again, I can assume there is a preferred location. (or at least a place of least "install resistance")
Pics would be great.
Thanks again guys!
Pics would be great.
Thanks again guys!
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Safety Car
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,353
Likes: 22
From: Bella Vista Ca
Here is a link to my thread on the same question. If you look in my pictures you can see the controller and "box" mounted next to the battery. Andy told me to set the dial to about 3/4s. I tapped into the brake booster line for vacuum. My BOV, Boost a Pump, and Boost gauge are all tapped in there.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1284198
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1284198
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 790
Likes: 7
From: Denton TX
I had one done for my 402 at 21st CMC. I also had them install the Racetronix harness. This harness takes voltage directly from the alternator to the fuel pump. It has an inline relay inside the rear fender well. The fuel circuit in the car activates this relay. The harness comes with adapters that allow you to plug the boost-a-pump into it. The boost-a-pump is mounted inside the wheel well against the bulkhead.
They mounted a throttle position sensor down close to the PCM to activate the BAP at WOT. Its a very clean setup and 21st did a perfect job. It all looks like it was wired at the factory.
They mounted a throttle position sensor down close to the PCM to activate the BAP at WOT. Its a very clean setup and 21st did a perfect job. It all looks like it was wired at the factory.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Here's my dumb question. I understand where everything goes, but if the BAP is installed inline/across the Fuel Pump fuse, then all current goes to the BAP then to the Fuel Pump. The vacuum switch supplied has 2 spades that connect to the wire off of the BAP. Is this an on/off type of switch or does it increase output based on increased vacuum?
Is there any jiuce going through the BAP to the Fuel Pump at start-up/idle (obviously there has to be right)? And does the vacuum just increase that voltage? I didn't run any tests yet or put a voltmeter on it but was curious how the Fuel Pump gets power if nothing goes across the BAP until the boost reaches a certain level.
My guess would be that the BAP also supplies around 12v until the boost vacuum increases which in turn causes the voltage to increase above 12v up to 17.5v
Is there any jiuce going through the BAP to the Fuel Pump at start-up/idle (obviously there has to be right)? And does the vacuum just increase that voltage? I didn't run any tests yet or put a voltmeter on it but was curious how the Fuel Pump gets power if nothing goes across the BAP until the boost reaches a certain level.
My guess would be that the BAP also supplies around 12v until the boost vacuum increases which in turn causes the voltage to increase above 12v up to 17.5v
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 2,252
Likes: 181
From: NE OH
Originally Posted by 78Vette-SA
Here's my dumb question. I understand where everything goes, but if the BAP is installed inline/across the Fuel Pump fuse, then all current goes to the BAP then to the Fuel Pump. The vacuum switch supplied has 2 spades that connect to the wire off of the BAP. Is this an on/off type of switch or does it increase output based on increased vacuum?
Is there any jiuce going through the BAP to the Fuel Pump at start-up/idle (obviously there has to be right)? And does the vacuum just increase that voltage? I didn't run any tests yet or put a voltmeter on it but was curious how the Fuel Pump gets power if nothing goes across the BAP until the boost reaches a certain level.
My guess would be that the BAP also supplies around 12v until the boost vacuum increases which in turn causes the voltage to increase above 12v up to 17.5v
Is there any jiuce going through the BAP to the Fuel Pump at start-up/idle (obviously there has to be right)? And does the vacuum just increase that voltage? I didn't run any tests yet or put a voltmeter on it but was curious how the Fuel Pump gets power if nothing goes across the BAP until the boost reaches a certain level.
My guess would be that the BAP also supplies around 12v until the boost vacuum increases which in turn causes the voltage to increase above 12v up to 17.5v
You are partially right...or partially wrong..
BAP increases voltage to the fuel pump, it isn't proportional to the vacuum of the engine. The pressure switch is an on/off signal for the BAP to engage. The amount of boost (voltage) supplied is controlled by the rheostat (sp?) that comes with the BAP. Hope this makes sense..
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,710
Likes: 0
From: Langhorne PA
Oh, the joys of a FFS fuel system...GM's better idea. 
The folks at LPE told me to remove the rheostat and solder the wires together. The Vacuum switch will then give you full power to the pump only when needed and there's not a threat of running lean while you get it dialed in. Done it for 2 years now and keep 59 lbs on the gauge all the time.
The folks at LPE told me to remove the rheostat and solder the wires together. The Vacuum switch will then give you full power to the pump only when needed and there's not a threat of running lean while you get it dialed in. Done it for 2 years now and keep 59 lbs on the gauge all the time.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 7,032
Likes: 2
From: Newburgh NY
Originally Posted by Dr. Dan
Oh, the joys of a FFS fuel system...GM's better idea.
The folks at LPE told me to remove the rheostat and solder the wires together. The Vacuum switch will then give you full power to the pump only when needed and there's not a threat of running lean while you get it dialed in. Done it for 2 years now and keep 59 lbs on the gauge all the time.
The folks at LPE told me to remove the rheostat and solder the wires together. The Vacuum switch will then give you full power to the pump only when needed and there's not a threat of running lean while you get it dialed in. Done it for 2 years now and keep 59 lbs on the gauge all the time.
