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Non-racing but solid, non-warp rotors.

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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 06:59 PM
  #1  
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Default Non-racing but solid, non-warp rotors.

I have a dancing pedal when I hit the brakes @ 70 mph or so.... The steering wheel seems steady, and it's not a horrible bouncing pedal, but the wife's little BMW does not do the same thing at all, it's rock solid. Even at slower speed stops the car seems to pull to the right a bit. Lazy Caliper? or, do I need new rotors? I had them turned at 15,000 miles, all 4, right after I got the car because it seemed to exhibit the same issues but much more so then- the machining definitely helped the situation.

Any thoughts?

GM stock, or Advance Auto Parts off the shelf, or Autozone, or do I have to go to the big $, big name manufacturers? Baer, Wildwood etc.?
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 07:39 PM
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I've had good luck with the Autozone 2 year warrantee rotors. Do a search, you'll see others have also.
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 08:01 PM
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what kind of pads you running??

i've read that with the ceramics, material can build up on the rotors with easy everyday driving. on mine after i do a couple of hard stops it usually eliminates or at least significantly reduces the condition you are talking about. same thing on my suburban which also is using ceramic pads... just an idea
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Old Feb 8, 2006 | 11:25 PM
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might be something other than the brake - might want to check the "tie rod/control arms" ? if that's what they are called on these cars (Short Long Arm) (don't know enough about this suspension yet)
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 09:38 AM
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http://www.rockauto.com/

Raybestos rotors are like $25 bucks or something. Go through the menu. It's 95% most likely the rotors.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bluemill
I have a dancing pedal when I hit the brakes @ 70 mph or so.... The steering wheel seems steady, and it's not a horrible bouncing pedal, but the wife's little BMW does not do the same thing at all, it's rock solid. Even at slower speed stops the car seems to pull to the right a bit. Lazy Caliper? or, do I need new rotors? I had them turned at 15,000 miles, all 4, right after I got the car because it seemed to exhibit the same issues but much more so then- the machining definitely helped the situation.

Any thoughts?

GM stock, or Advance Auto Parts off the shelf, or Autozone, or do I have to go to the big $, big name manufacturers? Baer, Wildwood etc.?

it's the rotors,most likely rears if you aren't feeling it in the steering wheel.the rotors aren't supposed to be cut[you take the hardening off].get all 4,do not get solids,get ventilated.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 03:09 PM
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You may have glazed or work hard pads, or you may have deposits on your rotors... it doesn't take much to cause this effect.. If you do not have a mechanical defect, you can remove the pads and rum them on some 80 grit emery paper.
Place a piece of emery # 80 on a flat hard surface. With the pad faced down on the emery and some downward force rub the pad pack and forth to break any glaze or work hard spots, you can look at the surface and see when you have cleaned the entire surface by the uniform look of the surface.
To clean the rotors they need to be removed to be able to clean both sides...
again with some # 120 grit emery, on a block of wood, clean both sides of the rotor's fire path, small compound deposit may not be visible but the emery will remove them.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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the brake peddle pulsating may be several things

pad taper

brake caliper braket is bent

bad wheel bearing

conbination of all the above.
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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its warped rotors most likely, quit over evaluating it people
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Old Feb 9, 2006 | 04:06 PM
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had the same prob, I got 4 of the $20 rotors from rockauto and new cer. pads put them on then broke them in like a mad man (smoke billowing out everywhere) since then 10k miles them feel as solid as a rock.

do a search on the right procedure for breaking them in, you have to get them very hot and DO NOT COME TO A FULL STOP untill they cool off.

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