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I've read that the conversion can be done without changing the vent tubes if the bottom of the intake manifold is ground down in a few key spots. Any thoughts about this?
I'm thinking I kind of like the idea of the block being able to vent more easily with the LS1 vent tubes.
I've read that the conversion can be done without changing the vent tubes if the bottom of the intake manifold is ground down in a few key spots. Any thoughts about this?
I'm thinking I kind of like the idea of the block being able to vent more easily with the LS1 vent tubes.
The vent tubes take 5 minutes to change. Why not change them?
They aren't vent tubes. They're coolant lines connecting the heads. The LS6 changed the configuration of the lines, so I'm not worried about losing any cooling capacity. I tried the 'grind the ribs' method when I changed to the LS6 intake, but I couldn't get the intake to seat properly. I went ahead and cut the pipe and flattened, folded and soldered the ends to avoid paying $40 for the GM parts. I still couldn't get the intake to seat, and I figured out the green plastic clips in the knock sensor wiring harness were the problem. Once I removed those, the intake sat right down. Since I had already modified my pipe, I don't know whether the ground ribs would have worked or not. Certainly others say it does.
Thanks for your input. I think your experience is going to enough to convince me to do it without the changeover tubes. I'll have a soldering kit or two ready to go. Did you solder like you would for electrical cables, or like you would for brazing copper pipes together?
BlownV6, I don't have the changeover tubes in hand, am too lazy to go pick them up, and like saving a couple bucks.....but basically, I'm a cheap bastich.
Before the solder, I flattened and folded the ends. That alone looked like it would stop any leaks. I cleaned up the ends with some emery cloth then used some flux, plumbing solder and a high-powered gun to solder the ends. You probably could use a propane torch to do the solder if you don't have a gun that gets hot enough. I don't know the melting point of aluminum or whether a torch is too hot or not
Cmon, does the LS6 intake make that much difference for this BS work?. Curious as to what the LS6 intake will do for you. A couple of ponies could not possibly warrant the extra work and modification expenses.
Cmon, does the LS6 intake make that much difference for this BS work?. Curious as to what the LS6 intake will do for you. A couple of ponies could not possibly warrant the extra work and modification expenses.
It's not a lot of work if you buy the plugs and tubes. It's worth a solid 10rwhp on a cam car. the LS1 intake sucks.
Cmon, does the LS6 intake make that much difference for this BS work?. Curious as to what the LS6 intake will do for you. A couple of ponies could not possibly warrant the extra work and modification expenses.
When (not if) your oil pressure sensor goes out, I bet you won't think of the swap as extra work. Other benefits outlined already. I already have the intake, and I'm dropping $$ to get my car tuned next week anyway, so I might as well get it tuned with the LS6 intake I already own.
Cmon, does the LS6 intake make that much difference for this BS work?. Curious as to what the LS6 intake will do for you. A couple of ponies could not possibly warrant the extra work and modification expenses.
I feel the same way you do about most 'bolt-on' mods that may add 5-10 HP. However, I did the LS6 intake in conjunction with heads, cam and headers. It didn't make sense to keep the more restricted LS1 intake on after putting more air-hungry components everywhere else.
Here's what I don't understand. Why would you take a car you obviously care about and mod then make short cuts over $40?? Just bite the bullet and order the plugs. If nothing else you'll feel better about a job done right. JMO