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Okay, I've done all the homework. Searched all the threads and purchased the Delco Pro. Irid., checking the gap at .40. Even found another site which showed what stuff to pull out of the way to get to the plugs.
Got two done on the drivers side and am ready to tackle the tough ones.
QUESTION: Is there a trick to get the plug wire off the plug? My hands look like hamburger yet I'm afraid to use pliars and certainly don't want to pull by just the wire alone. Damn these things are stuck on! Started on the drivers side the two next to the fire wall are hard to reach and the plug wire is really stuck on. Kinda wish I would have bought new wires at the same time then I wouldn't care so much about not screwing up the wires?
Best advise so far is to tourque only 7 lbs (Alum. head), or fully hand tighten then 1/16" more by wrench. Also using dielectric grease and anti-cease on the threads so next time won't be quite the wrestling match I'm having now.
I disconnect the wire from the coil first. Then I grab the wire by the boot and I turn it until it brakes free. Then I pull on the boot. It was easier than I thought. I have not damage any of them. Shop manual says to torque at 11 lbs.
I just changed mine and installed new wires. It does make it easier to remove the old ones when you don't have to be careful.
But if you're going to reuse your wires just wiggle and pull on the plug end and twist and pull on the coil pack end.
I learned this when I installed my headers - I had to remove my plugs so I could remove my stock exhaust manifolds.
Disassemble the emmisions control (smog/air pump) hoses on the drivers side, and push them up and out of your way - The hoses are held together w/ plastic zip tie kind of "thingys" and they are easy to separate -
Once you get all of the smog hoses out of the way, you will be surprised how much easier it is to get at the drivers side plugs.
Still though, you may still have to grab the spark plug boot w/ a plier to get a good grip/pull/twist.
I also found it helped (as said above) to remove the plug wires from the coil packs first.
Trying to pull any plastic or rubber hose off something to which it is friction fitted is always a challenge. As you pull on the boot, it's elastic nature allows it to stretch in length BUT reduce in diameter tightening its grip on the plug.
They make boot pliers for the job, but a coat hanger will often do the trick.
Make a hook on one end that is about the diameter of the plug neck that is visible behind the boot ( but smaller than the diameter of the boot) bend it 90 degrees so you can hook it over the plug. behind the boot and have it catch on the back side of the boot ( opposite wire of the wire end) When you pull on the coat hanger it in effect pushes the back end of the boot rubber causing it to expand away from the plug, breaking the friction fit..... and making it a lot easier to remove the boot from the plug.
You didn't say if you removed the coil packs or not. If you haven't remove them from the top of the valve cover. That will give you a lot more room to get your hands in there.
I changed all of My plugs and didn't have to remove anything at all on my 98 coupe. Just have a 1 inch extension and a swivel for the rear plug on the drivers side. As far as getting the wires off. I just unpluged them from the coils and I just twisted the wire to loosen it and used a plug wire puller (looks like a screwdriver with a hook on the end instead of a blade) to pull the wires free. I had no damage to the wires at all but replaced them with Delco ZO6 red wires from Fichtners.Part # 12495519 $48.89 for the set. Call Bob.
The Iridium plugs are pre-gapped and should not be touched. There is nothing in the way of any of the plugs that require removing of any part of the car other then the fuel rail covers. Oil filler cap has to be removed to get the passenger side cover off but put it on while working on the car because you do not want to drop a plug or something in the hole. Not even a 1 hour job.
Got the drivers side done. Everything should be down hill from here. There is just a damn good reason I would never be allowed on a pit crew. The learning curve is getting better. I found pulling on the heat shields was far better than trying to tug on the rubber boot. Only broke one plug wire so far... lol
There has been alot of great information given on this subject. Thanks to all of you. Next time I'll change my own plugs and wires instead of taken it to the stealer.
Thanks
Rsty
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10,'13-'14,'19-'20-'21-'22
Even my little hannies are too small to get a grip on the #5 & 7 wires. A buddy of mine figured this method out. Don't grab the rubber boot, grab the metal heat shield that encapsulates the boot.
I grab the metal plug boot heat shield with a channel locks and then pry back and out with a BIG screwdriver. It popped 'em off with no breaks or other damage.
Be happy we have some room on our vettes. My sons f body is terrible to do a plug swap. The wifes bravada requires you remove the steering shaft so i'll take the vette anyday.