Well after many different concepts and designs I really feel we have a better mouse trap here. I looked at all the oil adpaters out there and tried to create something better. Our new adapter features large 3/4-16 ports, an oil sender port, a 10 psi bypass valve, and two extra tapping ports for supercharge oil. In order to get all this stuff into one common block, it grew to 2.2" thick. This might be a problem with some brands of headers.

Does everyone use headers?
What brand is most common?
What clearence (block to header) do you have?

I thought we had every issue licked but then this came up. If we have to, I'll go back to the drawing board, but I really like the idea of having a bypass valve in the design.

 

Come on, where are you guys that bought the eoc kit?

 

I'm still waiting for my radiator with the combined EOC and the tranny cooler. As soon as I get it, I'll let you know.

 

RED99, Do you have headers? A measurement for clearence might help preventing sending parts back and forth.

 

ttt

 

Hey Tom, good looking block there! I like the idea of a bypass valve! I have LG Pro headers on my car, I can measure anything you want. Show us a photo of the other side of the block. From all the oil block prototyping I did I'm thinking as long as the temp sensor points up and slightly back you should be OK. There is quite a bit of room around there. The only thing that concerns me with that design is the tiny bolts that GM used to hold these blocks on the engine. With the block that long and the lines that far from the engine vibration will not be your friend. I was going to try to use studs when I got that far out with my blocks, but didn't find any good options. If you could find a good grade stud you shouldn't have any problems.

 

Good looking piece! I have LGs as well and just put on an adapter plate this past weekend. I don't think you would have an issue with height. It's hard to tell without physically seeing the piece but I think it would be ok. Now as far as sticking out towards the headers I added at least an inch and still had plenty of clearance, but again, I think it would be necessary to fit it but you should be ok. I can take a pic of what I put on tonight and measure the remaining distance if you like.

 

Hi Tom. I have one of your radiators and it was a great decision that stll serves me well. To answer a few of your questions:

Does everyone use headers?
For most of us once we start making modifications headers are a given. They are in fact so common on modified cars that If I were you I would expect anyone ordering your oil adapter will have them. Those who don't run headers are unlikly to need an oil adapter anyway.

What brand is most common?
Today you will probably see three major brands. Those being LG's, Kooks and of late Dynatech. Vette Doctors has a recently introduced header that you may very well be seeing more of too.

What is the block to header clearance?
I have LG's which I ran on an LS1/LS6. I now have them on an LS2 based 402 Stroker. I have never checked clearance. I would suggest you develop a relationship with a good tuner who installs them all. In the case of LG and Vette Doctors I bet they would give you the clearance information if you call them.

Good luck with your new product.

 

Hey SpeedyZ, good to hear from you again. I still have some of the photos you sent me and it did look like there was a ton of room for this block but the first guy I sent one claimed the bottom of the block hit the top of the headers.

I could send you a pic of the other side, but there is nothing there except two bolt holes. The block above is 2.2" thick. That's the distance from the o'ring side to the bolt side. If anyone want's to measure for me, this is what I need to know. You don't have to remove the temp sensor, just measure from the mounting surface to the headers.

To this day I still like your design the best if you don't use a bypass valve. I was convinced by GM engineers that it was a good idea to incorporate the bypass to limit the pressure drop across the cooler for high rpm drivers. The other advantage is you have some safety in the rare case the cooler plugs up with crap.

I'm working on a new (alternate) design where the block is only 1.25" thick. The block is 3.5" x 3.5" the other way. The temp sensor is going to come out the side (facing rear of car) and will be horizontal. Why did you say "as long as the sensor points up"? I don't see any reason it wouldn't work this way too.

I agree with you on the size, weight, and bolt size. I would like to supply it with grade 8 allen head bolts (or socket head cap screws) for the added holding force but I don't know how well accepted this would be. Not everyone likes using allen wrenches and you need clearance between the block and the headers to get the wrench in there. Any opinions

 

Here are some pics with LG headers. I think the block would work in this case:

 

OK, I think I see your temp sensor port there now, I was thinking it was on the other side of the block, that was why I was wanting to see the other side. The only reason I was saying point the temp sensor up and back was to keep the wires away from the exhaust. They factory points out and forward, but after you move out a couple inches that angle would be getting the wires close to the exhaust. Your current location there won't cause any problems at all. The sensor should work at any angle, the only problem with straight back is got to be sure it don't hit the block or bell housing. I don't think turning the sensor horizontal out the left will work because that will leave your wires very close to the exhaust.

You going to hang the bypass down by the oil filter on your alternate design? That may be an option. Might be able to use my design and hang the bypass under it, down by the filter. If I had your bypass dimensions (or a spare bypass) I could draw up another block in CAD and print you out a prototype. I still got all those blocks in CAD somewhere. It is hard enough to design a good block with large ports while keeping the temp sensor in the front port, then you go and add a bypass.

I don't think anyone would have a problem with socket head cap screws. Since the oil lines are so large you have to have the exhaust off to change the block anyway, so clearance with the exhaust off won't be a problem. I think studs would be best since you could screw then to the bottom of the threads in the engine block, and they your not turning the threads in aluminum when you tighten them up which will help prevent screwing up the tiny aluminum engine block threads. and still give great clamping. You might contact ARP and ask about studs, you might get luck and find they already make a stud that would fit your application.

BTW: Which way did you run your oil lines in your design? Between the motor mount and the block or outside the motor mount?

Keep up the good work

 

What is that port for in your extra block there? Is that for supercharger oiling? Any idea how thick that block is? Looks about 3/4" from the photo.

Great photos! I don't think there would be a problem with the LG headers. Wonder what brand headers are hitting?

 

Looks great Tom

 

It is a block that is supplied with the STS kit that feeds the turbos oil. It is probably between 3/4" and 1" thick.

 

Oh, I assumed since you were running LG headers you were not running turbos, but I guess that can't be assumed around here anymore!

How do they get the oil back up front and back in the motor?

 

We plan on going between the mount and motor and come out by the ABS system.

It's funning if you compare the responses here with the responses I got on the autocross section, the opinions are totally different. They say the adapter will never work. Based on the photos above, it looks like we have plenty of room

 

Cajundude, thanks for the photo's those are the best ones I've seen yet

Here's a little more on why I feel this is a superior design

 

No problem. The only cost to you is a radiator for an 02 M6.

 

The flaw with that design is your measuring the oil temp after it has been cooled in the cooler. Unless you know exactly how much the cooler is cooling you will never know your true oil temp. The oil cooling will change for oil flow, air flow (water flow/temp in your case), and engine load, so it will be a guess at best.

I think the bypass is a great idea. If you ever get the design worked out it will be a great block.

BTW: I also ran my lines between the block and engine mount and it turned out great.

 

Tom, I bought one of your prototypes and I run TPIS headers so I will try to get some pictures to you to see what type of clearance I have for mine, the prototype looks very nice