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No matter what mode I select the air flows from all outlets. I suspect no vacuum to the vacuum/electric
solenoid. How big a job is it to get to the solenoid behind the dash to check the vacuum?
Hi there,
First thing to check is the vacuum line, located below the battery. This is the supply source for the vacuum actuator.
Also, all you have to do is to remove the control head on the c60, and check the vacuum at the harness.
On the CJ2, you will need to access your diapram directly, as the programmer is within the controler.
Please let us know what you find, c4c5
Had same problem with mine. Took it to my dealer and they found a broken vacuum hose located under the battery just as C4C5 Specialist said. After replacing it's as cold as an ice box!!!
I had the same problem myself about a month ago. Tech. said The car must have had a battery leak(apparently with the previous owner) and that the acid ran down the frame rail and corroded the vaccum line into. He removed the panel behind the front passenger tire to gain access to the broken line.
You might also want to check if there's any codes, and clear them. 2 weeks ago, I had cold air blowing on the passanger side, and warm air from the center & driver's side. Once I cleared 2 hvac error codes, all is well...
Hey might as well check!
I have had a different problem. My dual zone does not allow for manual override after about 30 minutes of driving. When the selector is set for recirculate, it sounds as if air is pushing against a baffle, and there is minimal airflow from the mid-level vents. I wonder what is going down?
Thanks mudslideslim, I haven't had a chance to work on it yet, but I did have a battery
post break off about a year ago and some acid did leak out. I flushed it well I thought, but
maybe not well enough. I'll let you know what I find.
Well, you guys were correct. The battery acid leak apparently ate through the engine harness vacuum supply line since it
is broken in two. However, I can't reach or locate the top half of the line. My problem is that I can not for the life
of me find the vacuum supply line to replace or
splice it. If I could find where it connects to the engine, I could replace it or reroute it so I could get to it to splice
it or install a new one. Maybe one of you or "c4c5" could help me out!! I hope so! I think it is the engine vacuum
source line since it is the one that attaches to the bottom of the vacuum tank check valve and the shop manual
indicates that this is the engine harness vacuum line. Thanks...
Hi again,
The vacuum supply line is within the wiring harness that comes under the battery tray. You will have to pull away the conduit, in order to access this.
It runs from the back of the intake manifold to the source tank through this conduit.
You can access it and use a 1/4 vacuum line or you can do a repair with Motormite Vacu-tite plastic line.
Best to you, c4c5
Thanks "c4c5" so much for your help. I located the vacuum line in the bundle under the battery tray and spliced the
break using a length of 1/4 inch tubing. However, this did not fix my problem. I probably should have cut off
a part of the line in the bundle to make sure there were no more leaks in the line just up stream of the break. I
didn't do this since I was trying to minimize the amount of removed protective conduit. The vacuum line down
stream to the tank looked good. Also the line from the tank to the firewall looked good. I guess I could have
replaced the entire up stream line to the back of the manifold, but the back of the intake manifold looked a little
hard to get to. Maybe you can advise me on replacing the line at the manifold. Anyway, I have more work to do
when I get some time!! Many thanks for your expert help.