Decarbing
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 18
From: Henderson NV
Decarbing
https://www.corvetteforum.com/techti...=212&TopicID=1
Is this article a pretty good way to decarb, seems easy enough, If anyone has done it this way, I presume the funnel they show is adding the decarb into the Hose going INTO the intake manifold correct.
thnx
Is this article a pretty good way to decarb, seems easy enough, If anyone has done it this way, I presume the funnel they show is adding the decarb into the Hose going INTO the intake manifold correct.
thnx
Last edited by Pizzano; Mar 11, 2006 at 01:21 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 35
From: Folsom Lake CA
Correct, and don't forget to keep the windows up and the top on, when you start it after letting it sit overnight. The pics in the thread you linked to are very misleading. Take a look at how much smoke you'll get upon starting it in these pics. Note that it gets WAY worse when you drive it.
Oh, yeah, and don't forget an IMMEDIATE oil change after the drive to blow all that crap out! Take GOOD luck ay my oil catch can for what can get in your oil!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show..._id=103&arch=1
Oh, yeah, and don't forget an IMMEDIATE oil change after the drive to blow all that crap out! Take GOOD luck ay my oil catch can for what can get in your oil!
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show..._id=103&arch=1
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 793
Likes: 2
From: Milwaukee & Long Beach WI & CA
The GM Top Engine cleaner (or Sea Foam) is poured into the intake. Not the PCV hose! You remove the PCV hose from where it goes into the intake manifold just behind the throttle body and pour the cleaner into the intake with the motor running.
You need to regulate the rate you pour at so that you don't stall the car until you've got about 2/3 of a can in there. It will take quite a bit poured in suddenly to stall the car which is why the instructions on the can suggest you only put in 2/3 before you try to stall it. Some fear that all that cleaner dumped in might cause the engine to hydro lock and so just slowly pour the can in and turn off the engine. I've done it both ways and they both seem to work.
The cleaner get sucked into the intake and cleans oil and carbon from it as well as the cylinders as it gets sucked in. DO NOT pout it into the PCV hose. That's not going to clean anything, just dump the cleaner into the area under the valve covers or the area under the intake if you have the Z06 PCV system.
You need to regulate the rate you pour at so that you don't stall the car until you've got about 2/3 of a can in there. It will take quite a bit poured in suddenly to stall the car which is why the instructions on the can suggest you only put in 2/3 before you try to stall it. Some fear that all that cleaner dumped in might cause the engine to hydro lock and so just slowly pour the can in and turn off the engine. I've done it both ways and they both seem to work.
The cleaner get sucked into the intake and cleans oil and carbon from it as well as the cylinders as it gets sucked in. DO NOT pout it into the PCV hose. That's not going to clean anything, just dump the cleaner into the area under the valve covers or the area under the intake if you have the Z06 PCV system.
Last edited by mathia; Mar 11, 2006 at 03:28 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 35
From: Folsom Lake CA
Originally Posted by Pizzano
Thanx, much appreciated, do you have any recent pics of how the filter you have installed looks.
thnx again
thnx again
Filter installed in reverse flow position traps oil better than normal flow position.
Bead of blue RTV sealer rings the inside bowl to help prevent oil creepage.
Veedle valve at bottom of filter removed. 1/4" brass adapter and ball valve screwed onto bottom of filter enables me to drain oil from bottom, instead of pouring the oil out like you normally would, and have the oil have to run over the RTV bead.
(Excuse the relay for 4-bulbs-on-with-hi-beams mod on the left of the catch-can/filter. I haven't figured out yet how to clean up all those labels I put on the wires without forgetting which wire is which.)
Last edited by MrLeadFoot; Mar 11, 2006 at 11:00 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 18
From: Henderson NV
I notice the article for decarbing is from 2003, so is the stuff needed still called (Top Engine Cleaner from the GM dealer), if so any idea how much each can is, and the article says 2 cans poured in , is this correct, or is 1 can only needed.
I understand the oil needs to be changed afterwards, but does this affect fouling of the plugs at all, or is that of no concern, (I just changed them and really dont want to bend to do it again).
Also mentioned by Mrleadfoot, to have the top on and windows up,rightfully so, is there a oily residue that will emit out of the exhaust,possibly getting over the paint, or is this just for the fumes, and smoke.
Thanx again
I understand the oil needs to be changed afterwards, but does this affect fouling of the plugs at all, or is that of no concern, (I just changed them and really dont want to bend to do it again).
Also mentioned by Mrleadfoot, to have the top on and windows up,rightfully so, is there a oily residue that will emit out of the exhaust,possibly getting over the paint, or is this just for the fumes, and smoke.
Thanx again
Last edited by Pizzano; Mar 19, 2006 at 04:39 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 35
From: Folsom Lake CA
Originally Posted by Pizzano
I notice the article for decarbing is from 2003, so is the stuff needed still called (Top Engine Cleaner from the GM dealer), if so any idea how much each can is, and the article says 2 cans poured in , is this correct, or is 1 can only needed.
I understand the oil needs to be changed afterwards, but does this affect fouling of the plugs at all, or is that of no concern, (I just changed them and really dont want to bend to do it again).
Also mentioned by Mrleadfoot, to have the top on and windows up,rightfully so, is there a oily residue that will emit out of the exhaust,possibly getting over the paint, or is this just for the fumes, and smoke.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,943
Likes: 18
From: Henderson NV
Originally Posted by MrLeadFoot
I don't think the name has changed. I'm pretty sure that I used 2 cans for the suck-into-intake method, although when I previously used Seafoam instead, I only used 2/3 of the can.
Good question! I didn't do plugs afterwards, and have had no problems since doing the decarb. But, think about it, you're decarbing, which is designed to burn everything off the pistons, right? So, I imagine with works wonders to clean the plugs, too.
Just fumes, no residue.
Good question! I didn't do plugs afterwards, and have had no problems since doing the decarb. But, think about it, you're decarbing, which is designed to burn everything off the pistons, right? So, I imagine with works wonders to clean the plugs, too.
Just fumes, no residue.
Thanx, much appreciated
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Instructor
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio Tx
Originally Posted by MrLeadFoot
Details:
Bead of blue RTV sealer rings the inside bowl to help prevent oil creepage.
Bead of blue RTV sealer rings the inside bowl to help prevent oil creepage.
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,340
Likes: 35
From: Folsom Lake CA
Originally Posted by MagRed_00
Sorry to hijack. I had an ebay catch can and was not pleased with it so I just did your method with the compressor parts. It looks nice, but what is oil creepage?
Thanks
Thanks
