Is their any good wiring write up's. I see Your suppose to have two ground locations that are not close to each other. Also a good power source. What has everyone been using? I don't want a permanent install since I will be using it on more than one vehicle and it's not mine I just bought EFI tuning and borrowed this from a friend to play with.

 

You should be able to find instructions on Innovate’s web site ( http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...M-1_Manual.pdf ). As far grounding, watch out for ground loops.


Mike

 

I haven't had a chance to do a write up yet but your wire connections should be like this (I used a XD-1 with my install of the LC-1):

Nothing to XD-1 OUT
XD-1 IN to LC-1 OUT
Terminator plug to LC-1 IN
LC-1 red wire to switched 12V
White, blue, green are grounded with the XD-1 at the same grounding point
The rest of the colored wires are hooked up to nothing

Hope this helps.

 

I got power from the accessory pigtail located in the pass side footwell above the BCM. For a ground I just ground the metal behind the driver's side kickpanel and grounded there.

 

Thanks. The part that had me confused in the instructions state

How far away or just not touching?

 

Klaus, the guy who invented the thing, told me that you can ground those together. Mine works great.

 

Thanks. I was trying picture in my head ground wires running all over the car. So their is a acc. power pig tail, that would help. I guess will try and get off my lazy but and get this all hooked up today. I have a 12.37 time to better on my car that still has the stock A/F settings.

Thanks again

 

Some 2003 and all 2004 don't have the pigtail. Mine is an 02 and has it. It is right above the BCM, there are three wires and they are taped off. The black is a ground, the yellow is 12v switched and the orange is 12v constant.

 

Man what happened to the good old days when Red was positve and Black was ground. I have a 98

 

Here's a good how to.

http://kashmir.thend.org/~mkane/Corvette/wbo2.html



Instead a punching a hole through the grommet - untape the end behind the battery - and you can pass the wires through the grommet.

There is an unused threaded hole (10mm x 1.5) on the block - passenger side next to the motor mount - I used that for the heater ground.


http://redshift.homestead.com/WBO2.html

This second link has a link to a minifuse installation. That's how I power my WB.

 

Thats some good info
Thanks

 

Has anyone tried wiring this up for temporary tuning? I plan on installing it, datalogging and tuning for an afternoon, and then removing it and being done with it.

My thought is to just run the power wires and ground into a male cigarette lighter adapter...plug it in, calibrate the O2 and go with it. Anyone see a problem with this? I know permanent wiring is another story....

 

Thanks for the tips. I have a LC-1 and XD-1 sitting on my kitchen table waiting to be installed.

 

The reason the blue heater ground is a different wire than the white logic (system as they call it) ground is because of the resistance and current draw in the heater circuit. The O2 sensor heaters take lots of current so as the LC1 turns on and off the heater there will be a voltage drop in the blue (heater ground) wire. The closer you get to the LC1 the higher the voltage drop. This is why they ran a separate wire (white) for the logic ground. With the logic grounded with its own wire it will not see the voltage drop from the high current heater activity. You can hook these two wire together as long at they are both connected to a good ground. What you don't want to do is hook them together then extend them with another wire, that will defeat the purpose of the extra ground wire. Simply hook them together where you ground to the frame/engine and you will be fine. Just be sure it is a good solid ground.

I did not connect my analog ground (green wire) to the same location as the blue and white. The manual says to do that but if you read the forum I think that is not the best way, it is the safest way. It will work in most cases but can cause errors due to ground loops. Analog ground (green wire) should be connected to were ever your using Analog outputs. I have my Analog 2 signals in my EFILive interface and the Green Analog ground attached to the center ground pin of my EFILive interface. The main thing is you don't want to source any current on the green ground wire! If you let the green wire touch a powered wire it will kill a LC1, that is probably why they say to ground the wire with the others.

All those power, grounds and signal wires can get very confusing!

 

So you guys don't see an issue with wiring all the grounds together and powering it off my cigarette lighter? I really like the idea of a nice male 12v plug that I can just insert in my cig outlet and the LC-1 will power up...

 

That works fairly well, I have done it quite a bit with pretty good results. It does make a nice setup to carry from one car to the next. It will work a little better if you ground the blue wire somewhere else, or add a better ground to you lighter socket under your console. Just be sure that you also run your green wire to the ground of what ever your using to log with.

 

When you say "ground of whatever you're using to log with"....I thought the LC-1 came with a serial adapter that I can plug into my laptop...is there a ground on the serial adapter??? I can't exactly ground my laptop...

 

That is only if your using the analog outputs on the LC1 to feed into something like a EFILive interface. If your logging with the serial interface you have nothing to worry about. Grounds are not a problem what so ever when using the serial interface, only when using the analog outputs. If your not using the analog outputs just be sure you tape up them so they don't short to anything. I still wonder why EFILive people have not supported the Innovate serial data yet! Much better than trying to make sure the analog stuff work right!

 

where did you all draw power from besides passenger side footwell?