I had code 1243 HC and tried everything to get it to clear. I've been dealing with it for over a year now and finally after checking/cleaning all of the grounds, checking for ill fitting pins and broken connections, I came upon a solution. Bill Curlee had suggested I try stomping on the brakes on a wet street to try and engage ABS. This didn't work. What I did do was to clear the 1243 code while moving which would clear the error lights for just a few seconds. During that brief window, I stomped on the brakes and sure enough the ABS engaged. The error lights returned so I tried clearing them again and stomping on the brakes a few more times. After doing this 3 or 4 times (on an abandoned road) the error lights ceased to illuminate. The codes were gone and my ABS/TCS seem to work flawlessly (my car doesn't have AH). Today was the first time in over a year that I drove to work with no lights on my gauge cluster telling me my ABS/TCS were inactive. It was very liberating!! I hoping others might be able to have a similar 'fix'. Though be very careful when stomping on the brakes that you don't end up in a ditch somewhere!!

 

i have tried everything else...im gonna try this one tonite. out of curiousity how fast were you going?

 

25-30 mph. I didn't want to lose it if the tires locked up. Good luck!
Let us know how it goes. As a reminder, I had to do it several times.

 

1243 pump motor stalled, never seen that code; nice fix, unsual, but you fixed it, that's all that matters

 

I know with some mercedes benz you can blead the air out of the abs pump that way. Maby the same way for chevys?

 

my code is open relay, so i dont know if it'll work but worth a try...i'll try in a day or two when the roads are dry

 

Congrats... nice fix...


Thanks for sharing.

 

Well, to be honest, I never had the code until after I bled my brake system. I never suspected the two were related until now. My wife, who is not so technical (God love her), was pumping the brake for me. Very possible some air got in the lines and worked its way down to the ABS module where it wreaked havoc. Possibly pounding on the ABS recently got the air moving out of there?

Nice to have my world-class sports car back performing up to its capabilities (keeping me safe!).

 

Great job fixing it.

 

If you have an open relay, try cleaning the grounds G-101 and G-104/108. The EBTCM and the motor on the BPMV require a solid ground to work correctly! If your having a code for a stalled motor or internal relay failure, cleaning the grounds may save you some where in the neighborhood of $700-$1600!!!!

As for stomping the brakes, it makes the system work. The AH & ABS system uses the electric motor on the in the BPMV/EBTCM to provide pressure to each caliper to regulate brake pressure in the event of wheel lock-up. Some people that I have talked to rarely if ever use the AH or ABS capabilities of the system! So, if the motor is stalled and you have a proper operating electrical system and internal electrical components, making the motor work is sometimes all that is needed to free it up! If it has air in the hydraulic portion of the BPMV,, locking up the brakes WILL flush it through and cause the motor to work thus freeing it up. Thats all the Tech does with the Tech II. He pulsates each solenoid and causes the motor to run while the car is sitting stationary.

The recommendation to lock the brakes up on wet pavement was recommended because it causes less stress and strain on the car and wear and tear on the tires.
PLEASE,,, if you do brake lock up thing, DO IT SAFELY and do it in a location where you will not get into trouble and will not hurt your car or someone else's car or property!!

Hope this helps.

Bill C