Red Line Fluids?
So if you have a warranty, you could kiss it good-bye..
As to water wetter, ever since I put it in, the low water level sensor went bad.
It is a floating magnet sensor and not sure, but that wetter stuff may be the cause of sensor being screwed up for it went bad the day I put that stuff in :(
John
David In Indy :seeya
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2000 NBM M6-Coupe
All Options minus F45
Euros/Lloyd Mats/Chrome Shifter/Ripper/Halltech tric/T-bypass/Taylor
Wires/TTS Headers/High Flow Cats/X-pipe/Indy Corsas/Baers/Z06
Calipers/Russell ss brake lines/Hawk Pads/Porsche DOT4 Hi-Performance Brake
fluid/Redline oils/Zaino/Engine Dress by Auto Buffs and Design Specialties
I have a question about switching to a Syn. Automatic transmission fluid. If I service the A4 and want to put in Syn. ATF (red-line) will it matter that I am mixing syn. with the standard ATF as there will still be quite a bit normal ATF in the Trq. Converter? Or short of removing the Trq. Converter how can I drain it? does it have a drain plug?
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
There are 2 heat exchange processes. One between the engine block and the coolant, and another between the coolant and the radiator. The theory behind water wetter is that it makes the coolant a better heat exchanger by eliminating any air bubbles that keep the coolant from totally contacting the radiator walls and engine block passage walls, thereby acting as an insulator.
In the heat exchange process, the heat flows from the hotter thing to the cooler thing. The hotter thing in the first case is the engine block, the cooler thing is the coolant. So for exchange #1 the coolant collects heat.
In heat exchange #2 the coolant is the hotter thing, and the radiator is the cooler thing. The water wetter allows the coolant to give up it's heat the radiator better. As jetskifast has said, the more water in the coolant mixture the better. The dexcool defeats the ability of the wetter to do it's job.
:sleep:
[Modified by wwashing, 4:15 PM 8/16/2001]
I use it in my race car (SCCA A-Sedan) since NO ethlyne based coolants are allowed on the track in case a hose breaks (too slippery on the track).
It does NOT make the engine run hotter, but since it makes the water wetter (this is a chemistry term - basically makes the water molecules smaller so you get more surface to surface contact of the water surface to the metal surface. Soap is a water watter, detergent is not. Anyway, check a chemistry book if you want to know more about that!)
I have found it extremely beneficial in the race car since it cuts down on the corrosion and lubricates the water pump seals. On the track I'll run water temps of 230F and oil temps of 245F (Redline oil, too.) in the A-Sedan and the Z06 runs pretty close to the same on water but the oil goes to 290F range.
For a street car I'd question the benefit. The street car is already set up with what should be an effective cooling system. If you are overheating now adding water wetter may help, but you probably have a more basic problem.
Good luck -
2) I personally used Red Line products BEFORE I started selling them. Due to my excellent personal experience with the Red Line products is why I decided to sell them.
3) Water Wetter and Dexcool. They are 100% compatible. I have not heard anything about "The dexcool defeats the ability of the wetter to do it's job." as wwashing states.
With the C4/C5 and the electric fans, it does not become as much an issue as the fans kick on at a given temp. Other, or older, vehicles with a mechanical fan clutch it can become a VERY big issue. The condition of the cooling also plays a big factor. Yes, I run Water Wetter in my C5 just because of the improved heat transfer, water pump lube and anti corrosive additives. I paid $40K - $50K for my C5, I'm willing to pay the ~$8 for the added protection Water Wetter provides.
I have personal experience with Water Wetter working in a '92 F150, 5.0L, that would over heat in the WINTER when driving on the expressway with the snowplow attached. I would either have to drop the plow to an inch off the ground, or slow down to ~40 MPH to allow the engine to cool. After adding Water Wetter, my over heating problems went away.
4) Four qts D4-ATF in the manual MN6/M12 trans. Yes, you should notice a slight improvement but it will not fix a mechanical problem/defect.
5) Two qts 75W90 in the diff. You do not need to add the Limited Slip additive separately as the 75W90 already has it in it. The only purpose of using the Limited Slip additive with the 75W90 is to 'fine tune' it. If you are going to use the Limited Slip additive, you would be better off using the 75W90NS, (NS - indicates the 'No Slip' formula), and adding small amounts of the Limited Slip additive until you reach an acceptable level of 'clutch pop', (that being the clutch packs slipping in the diff.) Personally, I'd recommend just using the 75W90.
6) 10W30 for me. I only drive the car in the spring/summer/fall. If I ran the car in a lot of colder temp months, I would run the 5W30 during those months.
7) Warranty issues. IF I had a problem, AND, IF I was concerned with the dealer giving me a hard time due to using Red Line Fluids, (which I'm not concerned about), I would just change the fluids back to stock. If they are not going to cover the repair, they are going to find a reason in my opinion.
If you have additional questions about the Red Line products, please feel free to contact me directly, 262/642-4026, or Red Line tech support at, (800)624-7958, Tech@RedLineOil.com.









