Torque Tube Woes
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 5
From: Fredericksburg VA
YOu guys who are running the aluminum bushing, i'd strongly recommend getting the shaft checked when the aluminum coupler is attached. I'm in the middle of installing a carbon drive shaft and the runout on the aluminum coupler is amazing... You can SEE IT when the coupler is mounted. I took it off and installed a new, stock coupler front and rear...
Now if I'd just seen this thread sooner... I've got two rear bearings and NO fronts... And mine had play you can feel...
Mike
Now if I'd just seen this thread sooner... I've got two rear bearings and NO fronts... And mine had play you can feel...
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 5
From: Fredericksburg VA
Originally Posted by servohead
How difficult was it to replace those bearings? Moreover, how difficult was it to remove the old ones?! Also, I thought I'd heard of people replacing the rubber joints on the driveshaft ends before, wouldn't that prove that the torque tube IS serviceable?
I got a pair of couplers brand new from another member here who got them from Germany. I also got a replacement Carbon Shaft for the torque tube, and I have the rear bearings. However, the front bearing on mine was the issue as it had play, so now I'm in search of one. Typically when the front rubber coupler lets go, it takes the pilot bearing as well, which mine did, so now I have to replace that too!
I'd much prefer the corvette to have something besides this torque tube. In my opinion, they made a car capable of reving past the capabilities of the driveline, which the motor easily will do with mild mods and a tune. The T1 crowd rev past 6900RPMs all day long, and they have to budget in for a torque tube or two throughout the season due to this very issue. So when doing a tune on your Vette, if the tuner wants to raise your RPMs, just keep in mind that unless you upgrade to a carbon shaft, you're doing some serious damage to the torque tube... And see my post above concerning the aluminum coupler...
Mike
Last edited by Mikelly; Apr 23, 2006 at 07:40 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
ATI(on the left<<<, not the blower people, not the pulley people the 3rd ATI) will ck the front of the shaft for runout, most members on the f/i board run urethane up front and solid in the rear
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,276
Likes: 227
From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
is the actual torque tube different from the 97-00 vs. 01-04 cars? GM added the upgraded TT across the board in 01 w/ the start of the Z06
is it just the bearings that changed? same ID and OD?
is it just the bearings that changed? same ID and OD?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 5
From: Fredericksburg VA
The whole tube diameter and assembly is larger, except for the input and output shafts is what I was told. It's a direct bolt in though.
As for the comment about the aluminum in the rear and rubber in the front, I know, I know. I did that same exact setup on mine, mounted in the rear, had runout. What that means is, the whole assembly was not spinning properly with zero offcenter. Mine was bought from a very popular vender, and I bet mine is just like yours and was probably made in the same place. If that is the case, then they are ALL out of center, Which in turn prematurely tears up the front rubber coupler.
For the record, I've never tried to run my car up to 6500-6700 rpms like some of the guys who I DE with. I just didn't want to hurt the motor, so I'd always shift it at 6000 rpms or below. I fully believe this aluminum coupler is part of a bigger problem, causing more harm than good, unless the driveline is properly balanced.
Just my $.02!
Mike
As for the comment about the aluminum in the rear and rubber in the front, I know, I know. I did that same exact setup on mine, mounted in the rear, had runout. What that means is, the whole assembly was not spinning properly with zero offcenter. Mine was bought from a very popular vender, and I bet mine is just like yours and was probably made in the same place. If that is the case, then they are ALL out of center, Which in turn prematurely tears up the front rubber coupler.
For the record, I've never tried to run my car up to 6500-6700 rpms like some of the guys who I DE with. I just didn't want to hurt the motor, so I'd always shift it at 6000 rpms or below. I fully believe this aluminum coupler is part of a bigger problem, causing more harm than good, unless the driveline is properly balanced.
Just my $.02!
Mike
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,736
Likes: 7
From: Redding CA
Alright gentlemen...
http://jadefalcon.shackspace.com/Pics/howto_tt/
(preliminary picture dump of what I did tonight)
It's fun and not so fun being the first guy to how-to a torque tube rebuild, so I'll let you know what I learned tonight.
It's pretty simple. The snap rings are a bastard, like they always are, no matter how good a set of snap ring pliers you have. The bearings are actually pressed into the aluminum housing easily, I used a torch to heat the carrier up and they pressed out like soft butter. Heres the bad part:
There is another bearing in the carrier not mentioned in previous posts, and theres a part thats going to be a bitch to replace... here is the part list you will need to rebuild a corvette transaxle (minus any couplers):
(1) 6007 2RSJEM 35mm (schem ref #24)
(1) 6008 2RSJEM 40mm (schem ref #37)
(1) 6010 2RSJEM 50mm (schem ref #31)
(1) 35mm Slinger Collar (schem ref #22) -click-
It's important to note that the part numbers above are SKF part numbers, I myself used Nachi bearings for less than half the cost of SKF bearings. I will supply the Nachi part numbers when I do the final on the torque tube rebuild.
Now, all of these I can get my hands on, except for the slinger collar.. thats a GM part they dont sell, as far as GM is concerned, the entire driveshaft inside the torque tube a single part... so now I have to find where in the hell to get one.
http://jadefalcon.shackspace.com/Pics/howto_tt/
(preliminary picture dump of what I did tonight)
It's fun and not so fun being the first guy to how-to a torque tube rebuild, so I'll let you know what I learned tonight.
It's pretty simple. The snap rings are a bastard, like they always are, no matter how good a set of snap ring pliers you have. The bearings are actually pressed into the aluminum housing easily, I used a torch to heat the carrier up and they pressed out like soft butter. Heres the bad part:
There is another bearing in the carrier not mentioned in previous posts, and theres a part thats going to be a bitch to replace... here is the part list you will need to rebuild a corvette transaxle (minus any couplers):
(1) 6007 2RSJEM 35mm (schem ref #24)
(1) 6008 2RSJEM 40mm (schem ref #37)
(1) 6010 2RSJEM 50mm (schem ref #31)
(1) 35mm Slinger Collar (schem ref #22) -click-
It's important to note that the part numbers above are SKF part numbers, I myself used Nachi bearings for less than half the cost of SKF bearings. I will supply the Nachi part numbers when I do the final on the torque tube rebuild.
Now, all of these I can get my hands on, except for the slinger collar.. thats a GM part they dont sell, as far as GM is concerned, the entire driveshaft inside the torque tube a single part... so now I have to find where in the hell to get one.
Hello,
Are you 100 percent sure on that 6010 bearing? Just about every write up that I can find on these things says (2) of the 6008 bearings and (1) 6007.
My car is a 2000 Automatic.
I already bought (1) 6007 and (2) 6008 bearings. Now I have it all torn apart, can't get the snap ring out and don't know what the heck to do about these bearings?
Also, when did you remove your front plug bolts that were put in place of the plastic plugs? How did you re install them to make sure that the new bearing was aligned/balanced properly?
thank you,
Donnie
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 939
Likes: 0
From: Clarksville TN
Hello,
Are you 100 percent sure on that 6010 bearing? Just about every write up that I can find on these things says (2) of the 6008 bearings and (1) 6007.
My car is a 2000 Automatic.
I already bought (1) 6007 and (2) 6008 bearings. Now I have it all torn apart, can't get the snap ring out and don't know what the heck to do about these bearings?
Also, when did you remove your front plug bolts that were put in place of the plastic plugs? How did you re install them to make sure that the new bearing was aligned/balanced properly?
thank you,
Donnie
Are you 100 percent sure on that 6010 bearing? Just about every write up that I can find on these things says (2) of the 6008 bearings and (1) 6007.
My car is a 2000 Automatic.
I already bought (1) 6007 and (2) 6008 bearings. Now I have it all torn apart, can't get the snap ring out and don't know what the heck to do about these bearings?
Also, when did you remove your front plug bolts that were put in place of the plastic plugs? How did you re install them to make sure that the new bearing was aligned/balanced properly?
thank you,
Donnie
01-04 got the 6007 and (2) 6008's
I haven't disassembled/assembled one of these but my guess is that the bearing is a straight forward install. It self centers by being installed on the shaft and the outer race of the bearing likely seats in the housing on a ledge or a flange if you will.
It should be a simple task overall. Temperature Differential method is preferred for bearings that have an interference fit.
If the OD of the shaft is lager that the ID of the bearing, heat the bearing and cool the shaft. If the ID of the housing is smaller that the OD of the bearing, Heat the housing and cool the bearing. Use a heat gun if you have it and large freezer works wonders. Also use some lube on the mating surfaces.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,202
Likes: 1
From: Greenville SC
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LS7 Clutch Kit ....$429
Includeds Flywheel, Disc, Pressure Plate & Alignment Tool...
C5 Remote Clutch (One Man) Speed-Bleeder Kit $59.99 w/Clutch Purchase
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(the good ones, these say Made In GERMANY)German 10mm Rubber Couplers $99.99
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C5 Z06 Clutch Master Unit $89.99
C5 Z06 Clutch Slave Unit $99.99
C5 Z06 Throw-Out Bearing (the good one) $39.99
LS1 & LS6 HD Pilot Bearing $14.99
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GM C6 Z06 Clutch Master Unit $119.99
GM C6 Z06 Clutch Slave Unit w/throw-out Bearing $199.99
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We accept Visa, MasterCard, Disc, Amex, Paypal and Cashier Checks!!!
Last edited by Mike Yeager@Eastcoast Performance; May 30, 2012 at 03:34 PM.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,202
Likes: 1
From: Greenville SC
