Drivers Side Door, Electrical Issues????
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Galloway Township New Jersey
Drivers Side Door, Electrical Issues????
I just got a new control (power window, door lock switch) for the drivers side door. It was working on and off before and it turns out it wasn't the switch. It's still doing the same thing.
Yesterday I took the door panel off and it seems like a loose wire or a shorting wire, if I jiggle the main door wire harness (Reaching inside the door after removing rubber seal) around it will work then it won't.
Anyone else had this issue???? and if so what was your fix???
Yesterday I took the door panel off and it seems like a loose wire or a shorting wire, if I jiggle the main door wire harness (Reaching inside the door after removing rubber seal) around it will work then it won't.
Anyone else had this issue???? and if so what was your fix???
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From: Memphis Tn
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My door locks just quit working. Cant figure out why. When I push the lock or unlock button it makes a clicking sound, but the locks dont move. Is this what yours does? Im putting mine in the shop next week.
Matt
Matt
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
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From: Esparto ca
I had my power unlock stop working. It turns out it was the power control module bolted to the door behind the door panel. Just to be sure I removed the one from the pass side and tried it and bingo. all worked fine. $200. later I was back in business.
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 44
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From: Enterprise Alabama
I have had similar problems, when I would roll down my window (express down, or manually), the window would stop about 5 inches from the bottom, seemed to hit a wire and pull it loose or cause it to short, when this happened, the entire door swith (memory buttons, windows, mirrors...) would lose power (if it happened at night, you could see the lights go out. If I didnt catch it soon, and open the door and wiggle (technical term 
) the rubber harness cover, all hell would break loose (more on that in a sec.), after moving the harness, you could see the light come back on, and everything would work, sometimes all I had to do was open the door slightly, and it would put enough tension on the wires to connect the circuit again, and everything would work again. Since I'm out of warranty, I talked to a buddy of mine that works in service at the dealer (mainly C5's), and he took a 'free' look at it, and without taking the door panel off, thought that it was just a lose wire, and he could take a look at it (for money) or I could just check it out on my own time (which I opted for, but havent done so yet, I just learn to deal with it for a temp. fix).
If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
) the rubber harness cover, all hell would break loose (more on that in a sec.), after moving the harness, you could see the light come back on, and everything would work, sometimes all I had to do was open the door slightly, and it would put enough tension on the wires to connect the circuit again, and everything would work again. Since I'm out of warranty, I talked to a buddy of mine that works in service at the dealer (mainly C5's), and he took a 'free' look at it, and without taking the door panel off, thought that it was just a lose wire, and he could take a look at it (for money) or I could just check it out on my own time (which I opted for, but havent done so yet, I just learn to deal with it for a temp. fix). If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Galloway Township New Jersey
Originally Posted by ebluevette
If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
I am getting the same thing all the codes come up once in awhile.. I have had the door panel off and couldn't find any nicks in any of the wires coatings, that might be causing a short.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 286
Likes: 2
From: 99702 Malae Place Aiea Hawai’i
I had the same thinh happen. I pushed the rubber that runs between the door and frame where all the wires run through, and all the problems listed below just stopped... don't ask me, it is an elevtrical nightmare
Originally Posted by ebluevette
I have had similar problems, when I would roll down my window (express down, or manually), the window would stop about 5 inches from the bottom, seemed to hit a wire and pull it loose or cause it to short, when this happened, the entire door swith (memory buttons, windows, mirrors...) would lose power (if it happened at night, you could see the lights go out. If I didnt catch it soon, and open the door and wiggle (technical term ) the rubber harness cover, all hell would break loose (more on that in a sec.), after moving the harness, you could see the light come back on, and everything would work, sometimes all I had to do was open the door slightly, and it would put enough tension on the wires to connect the circuit again, and everything would work again. Since I'm out of warranty, I talked to a buddy of mine that works in service at the dealer (mainly C5's), and he took a 'free' look at it, and without taking the door panel off, thought that it was just a lose wire, and he could take a look at it (for money) or I could just check it out on my own time (which I opted for, but havent done so yet, I just learn to deal with it for a temp. fix).
If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
) the rubber harness cover, all hell would break loose (more on that in a sec.), after moving the harness, you could see the light come back on, and everything would work, sometimes all I had to do was open the door slightly, and it would put enough tension on the wires to connect the circuit again, and everything would work again. Since I'm out of warranty, I talked to a buddy of mine that works in service at the dealer (mainly C5's), and he took a 'free' look at it, and without taking the door panel off, thought that it was just a lose wire, and he could take a look at it (for money) or I could just check it out on my own time (which I opted for, but havent done so yet, I just learn to deal with it for a temp. fix). If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,404
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From: Ham Lake MN
Originally Posted by matt3310
My door locks just quit working. Cant figure out why. When I push the lock or unlock button it makes a clicking sound, but the locks dont move. Is this what yours does? Im putting mine in the shop next week.
Matt
Matt
got the same thing, still does it now.
Passenger side works. its like the actuator wore out or something, i hear a click but nothing
Mike
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From: Bugs Bunny should'a made a left turn here
Originally Posted by viper8u2
got the same thing, still does it now.
Passenger side works. its like the actuator wore out or something, i hear a click but nothing
Mike
Passenger side works. its like the actuator wore out or something, i hear a click but nothing
Mike
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From: Vette-hid.com Lost in DFW texas
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Originally Posted by ebluevette
I have had similar problems, when I would roll down my window (express down, or manually), the window would stop about 5 inches from the bottom, seemed to hit a wire and pull it loose or cause it to short, when this happened, the entire door swith (memory buttons, windows, mirrors...) would lose power (if it happened at night, you could see the lights go out. If I didnt catch it soon, and open the door and wiggle (technical term ) the rubber harness cover, all hell would break loose (more on that in a sec.), after moving the harness, you could see the light come back on, and everything would work, sometimes all I had to do was open the door slightly, and it would put enough tension on the wires to connect the circuit again, and everything would work again. Since I'm out of warranty, I talked to a buddy of mine that works in service at the dealer (mainly C5's), and he took a 'free' look at it, and without taking the door panel off, thought that it was just a lose wire, and he could take a look at it (for money) or I could just check it out on my own time (which I opted for, but havent done so yet, I just learn to deal with it for a temp. fix).
If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
) the rubber harness cover, all hell would break loose (more on that in a sec.), after moving the harness, you could see the light come back on, and everything would work, sometimes all I had to do was open the door slightly, and it would put enough tension on the wires to connect the circuit again, and everything would work again. Since I'm out of warranty, I talked to a buddy of mine that works in service at the dealer (mainly C5's), and he took a 'free' look at it, and without taking the door panel off, thought that it was just a lose wire, and he could take a look at it (for money) or I could just check it out on my own time (which I opted for, but havent done so yet, I just learn to deal with it for a temp. fix). If I left the window stuck down, or didnt wiggle the harness...I would get... SERVICE ENGINE SOON, SERVICE TIRE MONITOR SYSTEM, SERVICE ABS, SERVICE AH, SERVICE TRACTION SYSTEM, REDUCED ENGINE POWER (which never happened, but the message would come up), SERVICE ...well just about everything... the reason this happened, as explained to me by my friend, was that one of the Body Control Modules (the Left door one, to be more specific) lost communication, which in turn, sends a signal reads an error message (no comm) with the other BCM's and in turn screws them up. On top of all the messages that would cycle, my radio would die, all of my gauges would read zero, and when you pulled them up on the DIC, they would be blank (no comm.) So you can imagine that the first time this happened, I almost had to change my underwear. After it happened, I pulled all of the codes, and all of them were the same, LOSS OF COMM. and after errasing them, I had no problems until I rolled down my window too far again (which sucks here, because Florida has so many tolls). I learned to deal with it, and havent had it happen to me in a while, knock on wood.
I think the door harness connector that goes from the inside of car to outside has issues.
I haven't had time to isolate it down. But as stated above you wiggle the wire tunnel and everything starts working again.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 16,795
Likes: 62
From: Lake Havasu City, AZ
If you have an intermittient lock/unlock but can hear the click.... the relay in the door control module is bad ( arced/burned)
You can replace the module part cost (~$300) or the relay part cost ($ 1.30 +$5 shipping)
To replace the relay see CF members web site... http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM
you can buy the relay at www.digikey.com
part number 255-1239-ND 10A 12VDC
You can replace the module part cost (~$300) or the relay part cost ($ 1.30 +$5 shipping)
To replace the relay see CF members web site... http://www.ronjpics.com/Corvettestuff.htm#DCM
you can buy the relay at www.digikey.com
part number 255-1239-ND 10A 12VDC
7th Gear
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Moyock NC
My new 06 is at the dealer now for an intermittent door lock problem, the inside button works intermittently but the door can be opened from the outside touch pad. The dealer's service dept is stumped so now I have a rental.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 566
Likes: 0
From: Miami FL
CI 7 & 9 Veteran
Similar problem
I recently had issues with my driver door that when it was open it had power, but when I closed the door the power would cut off completely. I had to open and close the door a few times to get the power to work again. I looked up the problem here in the forum (best resource of info 
) and found that it appears to be a corrosion problem with the door's wiring connections. A 'temporary' solution given was to jiggle the black accordion where the wiring goes from the door to the body. I did it and the problem hasn't returned; yet. I'll probably need to have it fixed in the future for sure, maybe when I have a door project.
Hope this helps.
) and found that it appears to be a corrosion problem with the door's wiring connections. A 'temporary' solution given was to jiggle the black accordion where the wiring goes from the door to the body. I did it and the problem hasn't returned; yet. I'll probably need to have it fixed in the future for sure, maybe when I have a door project.Hope this helps.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,394
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne FL
Originally Posted by YellowFlash
I recently had issues with my driver door that when it was open it had power, but when I closed the door the power would cut off completely. I had to open and close the door a few times to get the power to work again. I looked up the problem here in the forum (best resource of info ) and found that it appears to be a corrosion problem with the door's wiring connections. A 'temporary' solution given was to jiggle the black accordion where the wiring goes from the door to the body. I did it and the problem hasn't returned; yet. I'll probably need to have it fixed in the future for sure, maybe when I have a door project.
Hope this helps.
) and found that it appears to be a corrosion problem with the door's wiring connections. A 'temporary' solution given was to jiggle the black accordion where the wiring goes from the door to the body. I did it and the problem hasn't returned; yet. I'll probably need to have it fixed in the future for sure, maybe when I have a door project.Hope this helps.
Safety Car
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From: Vette-hid.com Lost in DFW texas
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St. Jude Donor '06-'07
I will have to take the fender off, there is no way i will be able to get my hands in there to fix it permanently .
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,394
Likes: 6
From: Melbourne FL
Originally Posted by NOT-MEE
I will have to take the fender off, there is no way i will be able to get my hands in there to fix it permanently .
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From: Memphis Tn
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St. Jude Donor '09 thru '19
Well I got my passenger side door fixed. The connecter that brings the power in the door had a loose ground wire. The short was in the connecter right where the ground wire connects. I bent the connection back into place, and now everything works as it should! I hope this helps!!!
BTW, the connecter is in the black accordian gromet on the dash side.
BTW, the connecter is in the black accordian gromet on the dash side.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
From: Greenville S.C.
I've been having this exact same problem with my pass door for weeks, but i've been chasing and cleaning all of the grounds (at least the ones i could find) the whole time. it's been driving me crazy because who wants to put their top down and leave the pass window up.
Racer
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 400
Likes: 2
From: Fort Worth TX
I had door control module (DCM) problems that evolved into the multiple weird error codes mentioned in the sticky above on electrical gremlins.
Not sure what the problem was, but this fixed it: I squeezed the accordian cover in the driver's side door jam until I could pull it loose. I gently removed the two orange wiring harnesses. I unplugged them and sprayed all of the connections with contact cleaner and then (about 10 minutes later) dielectric spray grease... I got both at Home Depot. Then, I removed the door panel and I was only able to get one connector off of the DCM (special tool probably required to get these off). I cleaned it similarly. I also took the cover off of the DCM and sprayed dielectric grease down into the connector pins.
I inspected all of the wires and saw no pinches - there was one bare spot on what looked like a ground wire in the door jam (copper wire with clear tubing around it) and I covered the bare spot with electrical tape.
I have not had one problem since....ymmv, MSIP
Not sure what the problem was, but this fixed it: I squeezed the accordian cover in the driver's side door jam until I could pull it loose. I gently removed the two orange wiring harnesses. I unplugged them and sprayed all of the connections with contact cleaner and then (about 10 minutes later) dielectric spray grease... I got both at Home Depot. Then, I removed the door panel and I was only able to get one connector off of the DCM (special tool probably required to get these off). I cleaned it similarly. I also took the cover off of the DCM and sprayed dielectric grease down into the connector pins.
I inspected all of the wires and saw no pinches - there was one bare spot on what looked like a ground wire in the door jam (copper wire with clear tubing around it) and I covered the bare spot with electrical tape.
I have not had one problem since....ymmv, MSIP