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I would go ahead and try a new bolt. I realize it is a very nerve racking ordeal and if the threads in the crank housing are in question this would surely answer it, but I really don't think it is that. My person opnion. However, if it is, you will know that putting everything together and running the car with a bad thread pattern in your crank would be very bad and with the space in front of it, it maybe possibly for someone to come to you and clean it out and make things good.
Not that I am a professional mechanic I hope you take my advice lightly, but you could get some PB Spray (a can cost about $5, and it is used to help old bolts out and such) and spray some of it in there...Take your crank bolt and just tighten it
I did get it out and the threads on the bolt look good.
I will try using some lubricant on the threads before I retry.
Seriously, try cleaning the crank threads like I told you, that stuff will clean any crap that is in there out and ensure that things are clean. I just want to make sure that things are all good to go. Trust me, I just don't want to see anything go wrong.
at 37lbs+ 140 degrees i was right around 260lbs on my torque wrentch.... so there is something seriously wrong if you are only at 40 degree's and already at 250lbs.
at 37lbs+ 140 degrees i was right around 260lbs on my torque wrentch.... so there is something seriously wrong if you are only at 40 degree's and already at 250lbs.
I used a 3/4 drive ratchet with a 4 foot extension, even with the
car in 4th gear and parking brake on, I managed to only get to 100 degrees before the rear wheels turned and just about jumped off my
jack stands! Scared the SH** out of me. There has got to be a better way to do that. I know that was WAY more than 250 ft-lbs.
I agree on check the bolt length to insure it is not bottoming out in the crank. If you bottom out it will not turn and this might be the issue. Check how far the threads go inside the crank and compare bolt length of the old to the new. Good luck. 99 Nassau Blue
My service manual says if the end of the crank is not still recessed 0.094-0.176 inches below the bolt surface of the pulley after torquing to 240 ft-lb, you are to remove the pulley and start over.
Was the pulley already flush with the end of the crank before the new bolt was installed and torqued to 37 ft-lbs?
It seems like if there is still clearance at the end of the crank, then part of the final 140 deg. rotation would be pushing the pulley the rest of the way on the crank...
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Apr 13, 2006 at 06:49 PM.