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I was waiting on my rotors/pads to come in and put some temporary pads on. I was able to get the 15mm bolts off and take the caliper loose to change the pads but couldn't break the 21mm bolts free that hold the caliper bracket that sets around the rotor. I received my rotors and just wanted to make sure that these bolts don't have a reverse thread to them before I shear the bolt. Also any tips for getting them loose? If I pull any harder I'm going to lift the car, bend the wrench, or crap my pants.....maybe all three at once.
From: Canonsburg home of Yenko Chevy (gone but not forgotten) Western PA
Originally Posted by Ubenripped
I was waiting on my rotors/pads to come in and put some temporary pads on. I was able to get the 15mm bolts off and take the caliper loose to change the pads but couldn't break the 21mm bolts free that hold the caliper bracket that sets around the rotor. I received my rotors and just wanted to make sure that these bolts don't have a reverse thread to them before I shear the bolt. Also any tips for getting them loose? If I pull any harder I'm going to lift the car, bend the wrench, or crap my pants.....maybe all three at once.
No left hand tread.
Use a short breaker bar or ratchett and tap or hit with a hammer on the end of the wrench hold the socket with the other hand keep hitting till loose(easy to do).
Haha- I just did this last week. Those 21mm bolts aren't reverse threaded, they're just torqued to 100 lb-ft. It takes a LOT of muscle to get em off. Try a really long breaker bar, or get another person to push on the wrench while you're pulling. Seemed to work for me!
Haha- I just did this last week. Those 21mm bolts aren't reverse threaded, they're just torqued to 100 lb-ft. It takes a LOT of muscle to get em off. Try a really long breaker bar, or get another person to push on the wrench while you're pulling. Seemed to work for me!
First of all they are torqued to 125 ft/lbs.
anyone could lift 125 ft/lbs with a small breaker bar... the problem with these bolts is they have red loctite which sets up like cement. a Little heat, or setting the breaker bar in such a position that you can put a jack under the bar, using the weigh of the car, jack the breaker bar and you will break the loctite. a breaker bar with a small pipe to increase breaking force also works....
I thought it was a piece of cake to brake(pun intended) them free... until two days later when the groin strain hit me..... 125 ft-lbs with red locktite is not the easest thing to break free
Use a propane torch and put the flame on the nuckles that the bracket is bolted to for 60 seconds. That will soften and loosen the Loctite. Be careful in there with the flame as there are rubber and plastic parts that you don't want to burn. The front wheels can be turned to get the rear part of the rotors pointing out. This should allow the handle on the breaker bar to come outside the wheel well for better leverage or an extension. Too bad, but you can't do this with the rears.
Get a longer breaker bar or some 3/4 inch black pipe at a hardware store. I got a 1 1/2 ft piece, put it on the end of my breaker bar and it was much easier overcoming the red locktite.
Locktite, heck it feels like they used jbweld. I'll give it a try this weekend.
I found that a Craftsman air impact wrench rated at 650 ft/lbs made short work of those bolts - "the right tool for the job" - good luck. By the way, on the front wheels, turn the steering wheel so that the hub on the driver side (when you do the driver side) is turned to the right - and visa versa when you do the other side - it makes it a lot easier to get force on the bolt if you do it by hand.
If you don't have an impact gun, go down to sears and get their 1/2" drive flexibile head (jointed) rachet thats about 20" long. It breaks the bolt free easily about $27 bucks.