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Has anyone tried to take the fore and aft slop out of the MN6 shift linkage?
I see a coupling just to the rear of the mounting plate and was wondering if I could loosen the torx bolt and spread the link rods slightly to take out the fore and aft play.
Has anyone tried to take the fore and aft slop out of the MN6 shift linkage?
I see a coupling just to the rear of the mounting plate and was wondering if I could loosen the torx bolt and spread the link rods slightly to take out the fore and aft play.
cc
I don't think that will get the results you want. That torx bolt along with the two shifter mount torx are for adjusting the shifter neutral with the transmission neutral after you insert the alignment pin. I'd think the play may be in the shifter if the stops aren't set (I have a Hurst and it has stops). Try the above adjustment then adjust the shifter stops. There'll always be a certain amount of play from the shifter fork and syncro slop inside the transmission. Move the shift lever and watch the shift rod at the coupling and you'll know where the play is and attack accordingly.
The shifter I'm using is the new B&M. It has no travel stops. What I see is movement of the shift rod whenever the shifter is moved either forward or backward.
The shifter I'm using is the new B&M. It has no travel stops. What I see is movement of the shift rod whenever the shifter is moved either forward or backward.
cc
It has to be internal then. Did the play increase after you installed the new shifter? It probably was just more noticeable. I haven't had my box apart yet, mine has the aluminum forks and it's starting to feel like a problem is developing. I'm starting to get blocked when coming out of 5th and crossing over to get 4th or 2nd. I just did the shift adjustment and it didn't help. I've just turned over 40,000 miles and have been realy easy on it.
[QUOTE=LV Vette]I’m a little confused (normal for me). Are you guys saying the B&M or Hurst shifters are not that good, or don’t last that long or what?
I've used Hurst shifters for 40 years and I don't have any complaints about this one. It is really on the stiff side though.
I drove a 2006 Z06 and I couldn't believe how light the clutch was and how light and smooth the shifter was, a perfect Ladies car until you put the active handling in other then the normal mode, then I was getting wheel spin in 1st and 2nd just by getting on it. GM improved the synros and it shows.
I have to be carful shifting mine (1999) into 1st at rest, sometimes it feels like it went into gear but it isn't. BTW, I had shift **** viberation/noise until I peaned the steel wedge that holds the **** to the shift lever.
I’m a little confused (normal for me). Are you guys saying the B&M or Hurst shifters are not that good, or don’t last that long or what?
Thanks in advance,
Clayton from Las Vegas
I've had my Hurst for 5 years and I've grown tired of the design. The shifter handle can be lifted straight up because it is held down by spring tension on the left and right sides.
The tension corresponds to the amount of pressure needed to either shift into first/second or fifth/sixth.
The original B&M Ripper was also spring loaded for side to side movement making it very stiff. The difference between the two is that the Hurst comes with two sets of springs one set being light weight and the other being fairly heavy providing the user an option of how much effort is desired for side to side movement.
The new B&M Precision Sport shifter does not have any springs. Instead it pivots on a ball and relies on the transmission shift mechanisms to control side to side travel and effort.
Outside of the transmission the new B&M shifter moves freely in any direction whereas the other two shifters stay in the neutral position and the only free movement is forward and backward.