Hey guys.

Do you think that me and my buddy (both volvo tech's) could tear apart my FRC and replace the clutch (on a lift, with all the trans jacks and tripods and tools) in one day? Neither of us have done a C5 clutch before, but we both work on car's for a living, so.... Do you think that's pushing it? (Saturday is the only day where we can fix our own cars at work)

 

yes, a good crew can do it in a matter of a few hours. On jackstands i've done it in less than 7 hours on jackstands with some well practiced members.

Just be prepared, and i think you shouldn't have a problem getting it done in a day.


Chris

 

Are you talking about an 8 hour day or would you have access to the shop for extended hours?
If you're limited to 8 hours I'd say you'd be pushing it being you haven't done it before. But, if you have the shop well into the night then yes it can be done.
I think the tranny removal alone books at 8.2 hours and this job is relatively equal amount of time.

 

On jackstands...with well practiced help, we got the transmission out in about 3 hours if i recall correctly. On a lift you really shouldn't have a problem doing it in 8 hours...especially if you have all the right tools there.

 

I had my mech do it in 3 hours, and that was delivering it to me. He did it with the help of a fresh 18 year old and myself.

 

Ok so we'd just have to fly right though it... With my friend it shouldn't be a problem. Two brains are better than one!

 

I have a feeling you'll do fine, don't forget to start int he interior, pull out the shifter, then drop the whole rear assembly whole. You won't even have to lose Tranny fluid.


Chris

 

yes, w/ two techs, 8 hours sounds right, Snap-on makes a good pilot bearing puller that works good on the c5's

no air on the 4 xmember nuts

 

I just did my clutch job with no previous C5 experience. It took me several days, but I'm not a professional mechanic either. The problem areas to watch out for are the following:
- while lowering your IRS crossmember, ensure that you have disconnected all your wiring harnesses and hydraulic lines from the cradle.
- while lowering your drivetrain, watch out for the shifter assembly attached to the torque tube. It wants to snag the hydraulic lines attached to the side of the tunnel. Remember you have a wire harness attached to the top of the torque tube, so get it free before you lower the drivetrain.
- the slave line disconnect is a bit difficult. If you have a newer car it's easier. Mine was a 98 and slightly different. The disconnect tool would not work to disconnect it. I finally cut it with my dykes on the slave side. Then used screw drivers to disconnect it. I'm sure you'll have no problems if you're mechanics.
- the pilot bearing is a PITA to remove. You'll save yourself a lot of time if you have the correct tools for removal.
- make sure you have all the parts you need to finish the job
----pilot bearing, clutch, new throwout bearing, new slave? Recommend a slave bleeder extension at this time, gaskets for your rear exhaust flanges.
----Loc Tight
----Brake Clean to make sure you have flywheel, pressure plate and brake disks completely grease free.
----Torque specs handy
----pilot bearing removal tool, flywheel turning tool (remove your plugs), splined clutch alignment tool, slave disconnect tool, tie wraps, a couple of coat hangers come in handy to hang your brake calipers and wire your brake pads in place while you remove your IRS, plastic sandwich bags to keep your hardware organized which will save you time during reassembly.
----If you have headers, you'll have to disconnect them to get better access to your clutch
----DO NOT use air tools on the cross member nuts or you'll snap them loose and can't easily get access to them from inside the trunk without cutting a hole I'm told.
----Be careful with reassembly to make sure you connect up your O2 sensors correctly. You might want to tag them. Make sure you keep the O2 sensor wire harnesses away from headers and exhaust.
----Lining up the drive shaft with the clutch is a PITA. Be patient and get the alignment correct. DO NOT force it or use a C Clamp. You might do damage to your clutch plate or pilot bearing.
----Getting the wire harness that is attached to the top of the torque tube was PITA for me. I used a coat hanger and pulled it into the clamps on the torque tube after it was in place.
I hope this was helpful information.
Cheers,
John

 

If you are an old school guy like me, using the grease in the pilot bearing hole and a brass drift to force the bearing out as a removal method is a NO NO!!!! The crank shaft is hollow and has a welsh plug in the end! If you use the old school method, you will pop out that plug and have a major oil leak! Just thought I pass that tid bit on down the line!

Good luck on the clutch job! Please let us know how it turns out. What clutch are you using??

BC

 

Bill is correct, this item came up in one of our many discussions at Englandgreen's house, i snapped a pic last week w/ the f/w off

 

Thanks guys for all the advice!! I took notes on all of it. I decided to go with the C5 Z06 clutch as I won't be modifying the motor heavily.

Questions: -Doesn't a new throwout bearing come on the new slave cyl?
-Where do I buy a slave bleeder ext. that doesn't leak (as I've read about)
-Do you HAVE to remove the spark plugs?
-Will regular Nylon fuel line disconnecting tools work to disconnect the slave?

 

Yes, a new throwout bearing does come with a new slave cyl. it might not be assembled but thats easy. I bought my remote bleeder hose from LAPD. You don't have to remove the spark plugs. The nylon quick disconnect tool will fit if you have the right size, I have a kit with diff. sizes.

 

- New throwout bearing comes with a new GM slave cyl.
- Not sure on those A&A or LAPD bleeders. I made my own and 3 others as well. I have heard the commercial ones don't leak if you place the crush washer on the correct side where it seals. There was some controversy on this from what I recall.
- If you have stock exhaust manifolds, you do not need to remove the manifolds or the spark plugs., just drop the H-pipe.
- Fuel line tool may work, if you have the right size. We couldn't find the right size. 2 flat blade screwdrivers works also. (some consider this is the hardest part of the install...lol)

I have done the whole deal in 6 hours with one other person (C5 KIDD) on jackstands. Both of use have done it before though. Motorcycle jack is a godsend for the rear cradle (x-member) and the trans. There's a few "tricks" to getting the tube (shaft) lined up with the clutch. It WILL eventually slip right in. Do not pull it in, do not rush or force it. One person can NOT physically do the job themself, it takes 2 people to get it in.

I dont like the C5 "Z06" clutch. There is NO "real" C5 Z06 clutch. All 2001+ Corvettes and 01-02 Camaros/firebirds use the same exact clutch. Nothing Z06 specific. It's not much more than your stock 99 clutch. If you're pretty much stock, then go for it.

Anyways... good luck and go for it It's not as bad of a job as most think....

Steve

 

I've done it in less than 8 hours and I've got LGM headers on the car. You can absolutely do it on a lift (Which I also have at my private shop) and only advice I'd have for you is to go ahead and do the clutch hydraulics at the same time.

Oh, and the stock Z06 clutch is ok on a stock C5... I cooked my stock new Z06 clutch on a heads/cam motor making less than 390WHP. Don't even think about going with it if you're pushing above stock Z06 HP and Torque at the crank...

Mike

 

One mechanic at East Coast Supercharging did the following mods on my car in 7 1/2 hours: new clutch assembly including fly wheel; new shifter; 4.10 gears with hardened output shaft; DTE brace; LT headers; straightened my Corsa cat backs; and did a street tune.

300 miles later, I still have to say they did a great job!