Hi everyone!

I am thinking of doing the following mods;
(02 MN6 MAG RED)

BBK 80MM ($400)
High flo MAF housing ($70)
SLP UD pulley ($229)
SLP 1.85 Rocker arms ($500)
SLP Flywheel ($300)
SLP 160 T-stadt ($15)
and 3.90 Gears W/brace ($1,500)

I am weary of the cam and heads because I am still under low miles
& frankly I do not want to mess with internals (BAD prior Exp.).

If I go bigger down the road it will be a maggie with I/C, but that is not in my near term.

She is a beauty and a beast.
She is siting lowered and on the 19" CCW wheel pkg (19x10 & 19x11) pirellis.
Tinted Glass and Neoprene seat covers (BLK) W/ LOGO. really confi!
Mod so far are,
Vararam intake & High flow carbon tunnel
KOOKs LT headers & X pipe
Hi flo cats and B&B bullit cat back.
and last but not least, LS1 Edit

My goals are to be around 400HP but I have no intention to go over that. I have traction issues in 1st and 2nd and 6th?
That gear is a dog, unless I an going to do over 70 I do not use it unless i am going to be in the highway for a while then I cruise at 80.

But back to the MOD I have in mind what do you guys think?
any suggestion?
Am I in the right direction?

Thank you everyone for your guidance,
And GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS!

 

I am in a similar situation. I would skip most of what you are thinking about. My suggestions are:

4.10 gears with the strut and hardened drivers side output shaft. DTE is probably the best source for these. If you do plan to go with a supercharger in the future, a gear change may not be the way to go. With a superchargers torque, 1st gear with 4.10’s will be useless because of traction issues. The other stuff will give you little if any additional power and are a waste of money in my opinion. This will not get you 400 RWHP, but with these gears, it will sure feel like it. I will also add that if you are going with a gear change, go with the 4.10’s, as they will make your car quicker then the 3.90’s and with our nose bleed high 6th gear, rpm and mileage will not be a factor. Soon after these mods, a new and stronger clutch will be in order. When all is said and done, your biggest problem will be traction. I haven’t been convinced that any regular high performance street tire will give you the traction you want. So to get traction, you will need drag radials or street slicks. This is the reason I recommend the hardened output shafts. The stronger your driveline, the better. I recommend calling DTE since they make a lot of high quality drive train components. If you have any more questions, you can PM me and if you want, I can call you to talk some more. The most important thing is to talk to others that have gone your route. If you don’t lay out a long term plan, you will end up getting things that will not help you achieve your ultimate goal. Already, I wish I did more research before buying mods, as I know I will be replacing some I already have.

Good luck and have fun,

Clayton from Las Vegas

PS: Fill in your signature with as much information as you can. It will help others help you.

 

I think you should rethink some of the mods you are planning.
Stick with the stock TB and MAF. You will gain little or nothing going to the 80 MM B&B setup.

You will only gain about 8 RWHP going to an underdrive pully. A pulley is only worth doing if you are also swapping the cam.

A 160 T.Stat helps if you also reprogram your fans to come on sooner.

3.90 gears are a very worth while mod and will help your performance. However if you don't plan on putting on DRs and going to the track the brace may not be nessesary.

The 1.85 rockers will give you more lift. But with very mild duration of the stock cam you won't gain a great deal of power. If I were you I would put that $500.00 toward installing a nice mild cam that will give you some real HP.

 

'97 Coupe A4
I went with 2002 LS6 heads and cam, LS6 intake,LS6 ported TB, LS6 oil pump and timing chain, SLP UD pulley, Blackwing air cleaner, fog light housing cut out for more air flow with ZO6 screens, headers, hi-flow cats, X-pipe, ZO6 Tis. 3:15 rear end...(maybe I should have gone with a 3:90) 160 stat with fan settings.
This is a daily driver..lots of SOTP feeling sound good should pass emissions without any problems.
Told I have a ZO6 with an automatic
Street tune..waiting for a dyno to see how much RWHP I have.
So my point is that MOD your ride for your satisfaction and be happy.
Rsty

 

I'd skip all of those mods except the 3.90's.

Mark

 

if you get anywhere NEAR 400 rwhp with those mods, I'd have the dyno checked.

 

Thank you guys,

That sounds about right HP vs $ ammount. I guess I was being a little too conservative on the gains. The SC is not for sure! I have tremendous respect for the power the vette already has.

I think I will do the gears 1st, are there really that much diff. going from 3.42 to 4.10? I was told 3.73 will hardly be noticed. and that is why I was considering the 3.90.

I told the guy in Discount tire of the traction issues and he recomended F1 325-30-19. Does that sound right? will they fit 11" rims?

Will the cheater cam be classified as mild cam?

LS6 TB diff from LS1 TB?


THANK YOU ALL AGAIN!

 

Anyone?

(I know some times the question sounds redundant. But I was just curious. I did the search and read many post)

The LS1 hot cam sound like its easy on the valve train but a little too choppy to be a sleeper. Tis is why I mentioned the Cheater cam.

I found no info on the Diff between an LS1 TB and an LS6 exept I think that the TB for the LS6 is larger. 85mm I think, is this true?

did the LS6 H/C-TB sound like an option, but I have decided only to MOD bolt-ons and stay away from the H/C option until my warranty runs out.

Thats when I decided if I redeployed from OIF with the incentive purse I miigth go ahead and get me a S/C IC (the quiet one, I think it is the Vortex SQ trim)

But I do have to confess I love the look of a maggie. Do the maggie whine as much as the ones in the cobras and lightnings?
if so I rather listen to my exhaust grunt and not my SC whine.

My Daily driver is a fully moded 00 GTP "Daytona ed." that, is a GT killer. From still to 100MPH is a beast but after it leaves third then is just OD from there.

Lastly does the tire question sounds about right?
(325-30-19 on a 11" rim)

I hate to spend a grand on a set of tires just to have them give out on me due to improper wear.



Respectfully.
an OD. LT
from FT HOOD TX.
GOD BLESS OUR TROOPS!

 

I will do what I can to help you out on some of your questions.
LS1 and LS6 throttle bodys should be the same at 75mm. I believe they changed the MAF to 85 instead of 75 on 2001 and up.

As for the hot cam, I believe they put it on a 112LSA and that would not be what you want. You seem to me that you dont want to go too wild, but have more power. I would recommend a cam like a 212in/218exhaust with 550 lift on a 115. That cam would pass emissions testing and idle like stock. Approx. hp increase with a good tune would be about 25rwhp. Throw on the UD pulley when you do the cam and that will be good for almost another 10rwhp.

You still would be probably a little shy of 400whp, but you have to pay to play. Throw some nice LS6 cnc heads on there and you will meet your mark.

 

Thanks!

For a second, I felt like I missed the bus. I apreciate your respond beleive or not it make a world of diff when some one answers the person posting the question

Around here that is what we call a "Battle budy".

Thanks again!

 

Thanks sicvette I love it when I can find an answer by searching and not have to litter the board with my newbie posts.

 

gears are good

scratch the rest

cam/ud pulley, powerbond or asp for the ud

you could do this install in a day

 

4.10's and delete the TB and maf housing. The rest of it looks good. Even if you get a s/c the cam change to at least a Z06 cam would be a benefit. With the 1.85's you will be fine on top of that. The flywheel for those that have done it is awesome. Get the $320 fidanza from texas speed. The brace isnt nec unless you are on a prepped track with sticky tires.